Can you install a new wheel stud on the rearend without taking everything apart? If so, how the h**l do you do it?
phanline6.6
Wheel studs should be pressed in from the rear.
There's a dirty-hammer-mechanic way of doing it. That's to insert the stud from the rear, stack a bunch of washers on the threads, screw on a lug nut and use an impact to pull the stud through into the hub/axle/drum/rotor/whatever.
It'a a good way to die as most studs installed in that manner are cracked during the process or shorty there afterward.
Please, I don't care if you've done it that way before. Your a butcher.
There's a dirty-hammer-mechanic way of doing it. That's to insert the stud from the rear, stack a bunch of washers on the threads, screw on a lug nut and use an impact to pull the stud through into the hub/axle/drum/rotor/whatever.
It'a a good way to die as most studs installed in that manner are cracked during the process or shorty there afterward.
Please, I don't care if you've done it that way before. Your a butcher.
I"m a butcher! :welcome:
If you use your common sense and don't try to pull a half inch stud thru a 7/16" hole or over pull it once it gets thru, you won't have a problem.
Tell me, what do you use to tighten those lug nuts? Do you think that tightening them over and over and over and over with an impact is going to be fine while pulling one thru a hole designed for it is somehow going to break it?
Sorry, I am with you, if you can press it in, do so. But if you are replacing a broken or screwed up stud or two pulling them thru is just fine.
Brian
If you use your common sense and don't try to pull a half inch stud thru a 7/16" hole or over pull it once it gets thru, you won't have a problem.
Tell me, what do you use to tighten those lug nuts? Do you think that tightening them over and over and over and over with an impact is going to be fine while pulling one thru a hole designed for it is somehow going to break it?
Sorry, I am with you, if you can press it in, do so. But if you are replacing a broken or screwed up stud or two pulling them thru is just fine.
Brian
I guess you'll have to call me a butcher too then, I've been installing them that way for almost 35 years, both in a GM dealership and aftermarket garages, NEVER had one break yet. For the majority of that time I WASN'T using Chinese made studs though,Old Rotor Flap said:
I have pulled the threads on a lug nut or three through the years, and generally try to use as deep a lug nut as I can find, with a dab of anti-seize. I do agree that pressing them in is best, but if I have one or two broken stud(s), I'm not charging the customer to pull an axle when I can SAFELY install the studs in about 5 minutes each.
Edit: Snap-On Tools even makes a kit for installing wheel studs. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...em.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=56232&group_ID=1659&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
O.K. Gentlemen, my apologies. You're not butchers.
I've only used an impact to snug lug nuts and torqued from there. I think most garages are using torque limiting devices on their impacts.
Now that I think about it, it seems the new studs pressed in from the rear didn't take all that much effort on my arbor press.
Again, my apologies and thanks for not jumping on me too hard.
I've only used an impact to snug lug nuts and torqued from there. I think most garages are using torque limiting devices on their impacts.
Now that I think about it, it seems the new studs pressed in from the rear didn't take all that much effort on my arbor press.
Again, my apologies and thanks for not jumping on me too hard.
I have to tell you, that is a rare case. I do it "sometimes", but most often I use my impact, along with a proper setting and some common sense.Old Rotor Flap said:
I have actually ran them on with my impact and then checked with the torque wrench to see how close I am. So I have a pretty good idea of what I need to do with the impact to tighten them correctly.
MOST, a HUGE majority of shops and tire guys use an impact and POUND those suckers tight. After being around the auto repair business all my life, owning shops, my brother owns a shop, my dad was a salesmen, I have been around this all my life. I would be willing to bet a nice $20 bill on it that 1-5% of wheels mounted in this country every day have the lugs torqued in some way. It may sound crazy, but I honestly believe that 95-99% of lugs are installed with a 1/2" impact with no measuring the torque what so ever.
Brian
on a brand new drum or axle you need a arbor press...
replacing a stud,,,the old stud has wallowed out the interference when it was installed...
plenty easy to use a torque wrench when pulling with washers to assess if you are stressing the stud...
do use a old scrap lug nut to pull it in,,,the for real stress danger is damage to the nut threads....
on a drum,,wise to use huge fender washers for lots of force area distribution so you don't distort the drum
tighten the nut then sharp tap tap tap on the nut with a hammer to coax the stud to move in and relieve the force,,,then tighten and repeat helps get that last 1/8th or so needed for flush...
on most rear drum brakes cars it is only remove 4 nuts and bolts on the backing plate to pull the axle,,,you can then use your bench vise to push in the stud with a big deep socket over the threaded part against the other vise jaw same as a arbor press method....
LOl,,,grrrrr, I did just have to use my vise to get that last 1/8th to flush,,,,I am so bad for getting axle lube every where!!!
2 minutes to install the stud and one hour to clean up...
replacing a stud,,,the old stud has wallowed out the interference when it was installed...
plenty easy to use a torque wrench when pulling with washers to assess if you are stressing the stud...
do use a old scrap lug nut to pull it in,,,the for real stress danger is damage to the nut threads....
on a drum,,wise to use huge fender washers for lots of force area distribution so you don't distort the drum
tighten the nut then sharp tap tap tap on the nut with a hammer to coax the stud to move in and relieve the force,,,then tighten and repeat helps get that last 1/8th or so needed for flush...
on most rear drum brakes cars it is only remove 4 nuts and bolts on the backing plate to pull the axle,,,you can then use your bench vise to push in the stud with a big deep socket over the threaded part against the other vise jaw same as a arbor press method....
LOl,,,grrrrr, I did just have to use my vise to get that last 1/8th to flush,,,,I am so bad for getting axle lube every where!!!
2 minutes to install the stud and one hour to clean up...
To properly tighten wheels you need a torque wrench. Impact wrenches with those torque sticks are usless. We have tested several sets from the cheapos to the expensive ones. None are consistently accurate. Not tightening aluminum wheels properly can lead to them falling off. Steel wheels are not as critical but uneven torque will also ruin rotors in a short time
I talked to a bunch of friends this week at our annual helicopter convention and most seemed to agree that pressing is better, but few would take the time to do it.
All are experienced helicopter pilots and mechanics and all said the way they work on their cars is different.... Cars don't fall out of the sky (FOTS) when something fails.
All are experienced helicopter pilots and mechanics and all said the way they work on their cars is different.... Cars don't fall out of the sky (FOTS) when something fails.
Old Rotor Flap said:
LOL, obviously there is no comparison what so ever! Not only are you flying, the friggin thing doesn't even have wings!
An Indy car or land speed record 300 mph car, sure then you go an extra mile.
And by the way, I have NEVER, not one single time had a wheel come off, or loose or anything of the sort not torquing the wheels. Now, is it a good idea, damn tootin it is.
We should all own a torque wrench and properly torque our wheels. It is cheap insurance.
Brian
Butcher here to. 42 years in the business. i have worked on more cars than most have, including tons of HP cars, corvettes (corvettes have been my specialty since the 60s) tons of muscle and race cars and even more mom and pops cars to pay the bills.
no offence is intended to anyone, but this thread seems to be divided between the LaLa land engineers and the real world guys who have experience and know better, i'm one of the latter. most of us "butchers" i know and respect by there posts and most post their ages.
as for the "engineers" i know few, alot don't even bother to show their ages in their profiles.
You engineers, i would have to fire most of you for wasteing flate rate time unless you were insanely fast (which your experience shows you are not)
you are now working in the real world. time is money, punch the broken stud out and draw the new stud into the flange with a lug nut and spacer on an impact wrench until it seats the stud. i can not even fathom how many i have done in the last 45 years. my first was was done in 64 or 65 on some nondescript car in about 5 minutes. drag cars after going so fast at a certian speeds they need 3" studs so they stick out of the lug nuts to pass teck- guess what, i punch those in too and draw them down, they work fine. like i said 64-65 cars were my first. the most recently was a rear stud on a 65 disk brake corvette i/ we (the owner) changed the broken real wheel stud on saturday. it took about an hour to replace. i hated getting the star wheel out off those tiny parking brakes on your 65. i even loved better watching you get your fingers pinched as you i laid there telling you how to reassemble them :welcome: :thumbup: well it was fun. mechims was cool. that GIANT big screen was cool. i thoght i saw some of your, our mine cars gone (0f coarse none of mine) :welcome:
no offence is intended to anyone, but this thread seems to be divided between the LaLa land engineers and the real world guys who have experience and know better, i'm one of the latter. most of us "butchers" i know and respect by there posts and most post their ages.
as for the "engineers" i know few, alot don't even bother to show their ages in their profiles.
You engineers, i would have to fire most of you for wasteing flate rate time unless you were insanely fast (which your experience shows you are not)
you are now working in the real world. time is money, punch the broken stud out and draw the new stud into the flange with a lug nut and spacer on an impact wrench until it seats the stud. i can not even fathom how many i have done in the last 45 years. my first was was done in 64 or 65 on some nondescript car in about 5 minutes. drag cars after going so fast at a certian speeds they need 3" studs so they stick out of the lug nuts to pass teck- guess what, i punch those in too and draw them down, they work fine. like i said 64-65 cars were my first. the most recently was a rear stud on a 65 disk brake corvette i/ we (the owner) changed the broken real wheel stud on saturday. it took about an hour to replace. i hated getting the star wheel out off those tiny parking brakes on your 65. i even loved better watching you get your fingers pinched as you i laid there telling you how to reassemble them
:welcome: :thumbup: well it was fun. mechims was cool. that GIANT big screen was cool. i thoght i saw some of your, our mine cars gone (0f coarse none of mine) :welcome:
Oh, hold on here, I have seen MANY wheels that have fallen off cars! I used to do a lot of work with the local BIG O tire stores and seen a few, one was one of my good friends who brought his Porsche in for new tires!T-bucket23 said:
Sure you can screw things up for not tightening them up good enough or for over tightening but I personally have never had a problem. Where is that wood to knock on!
Brian
Chet,
not tightened nuts will give you fair warning (wobble) as the nuts back off,,,(a shop did that one to me,,,mangles all the studs threads,,,,grrrrrr)...
all 5 nuts overtightened beyond torque spec to the point of the nuts being stripped and rolled threads is instant failure and wheel loss...
(my then teenage son did that one,,,damn lucky he was off-roading in sand in his Ranger when it did occur,,,he won't touch a lug nut without a torque wrench ever since)
PS: lug nut torque spec's do vary one car to the next,,,wise to know what your's are,,,it is usually in the manual...
not tightened nuts will give you fair warning (wobble) as the nuts back off,,,(a shop did that one to me,,,mangles all the studs threads,,,,grrrrrr)...
all 5 nuts overtightened beyond torque spec to the point of the nuts being stripped and rolled threads is instant failure and wheel loss...
(my then teenage son did that one,,,damn lucky he was off-roading in sand in his Ranger when it did occur,,,he won't touch a lug nut without a torque wrench ever since)
PS: lug nut torque spec's do vary one car to the next,,,wise to know what your's are,,,it is usually in the manual...
MARTINSR said:Oh, hold on here, I have seen MANY wheels that have fallen off cars! I used to do a lot of work with the local BIG O tire stores and seen a few, one was one of my good friends who brought his Porsche in for new tires!
Sure you can screw things up for not tightening them up good enough or for over tightening but I personally have never had a problem. Where is that wood to knock on!
Brian , what? i have NEVER lost a wheel in all my years as a mech and shop owner in 42 years. as a body man i'm shure you have seen wheels brake off in a crash. you are a body man. i'm a racer, never lost a wheel on any of my racers or car vettes. ... :welcome:
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