I just replace every thing with Grade 8 nuts, bolts, washers. Unless you are doing a True Restoration, I think it looks better and it' Safer

 

"..... I just replace every thing with Grade 8 nuts, bolts, washers......"

Paint will generally not hold up well.

I agree, although I mostly use new Grade 5 (zink plated) unless the particular bolt I'm replacing was a grade 8.

For those nuts, bolt and fasteners that are not readily available you can sent then out and have them zink plated for not too much.

I think you will find 2 problems with the powder coating......the pieces have to be completly clean for the coating to stick (labor intensive $$$$$) and the build up of coating in the threads.

 

Several years ago we did a 67 GTO. During teardown I bagged and marked the fasteners from everything. Since it was nice I wanted to use the correct (original) hardware in the correct location. As we needed them, I would remove the hardware from the bags and either tumble them in a rock polisher or beadblast them. Then they were either zinc or black oxide coated with Eastwood plating kits to appear new and OEM. This looked good but took a ton of time. About 4 months later I sold the car at the Kruse auction in Auburn at which time all the fasteners were starting to rust. The car had not seen any weather either. We now only reuse fasteners that are going to get painted with the assembly. All the rest are new.

Larry

 

Thanks, I like both of your ideas. In fact, most of my bolts have been replaced with grade 8 bolts. These bolts are still pretty inexpensive at Tractor Supply (MUCH cheaper than Home Depot or Lowes). They have an excellent selection of standard thread, but not much in the way of metric, which is what I believe I would need for the tire rod end nuts, the castle spindle nuts, etc...

BTW, the suspension that I am restoring is from a c4 corvette. These would all be metric correct? I'll have to check.

Can you tell me where you send your bolts to get them zinc plated?

Thanks,
Shad

 

If you have a lot of bolts to get plated you could check out Caswell for plating kits and do it yourself. Stainless is the way to go if this thing is going to be a keeper. Companies like Fastenall can even make the odd stuff if it isn't available on the shelf. Black oxide works for awhile but eventually rusts, tin is nice but eventually dulls, zinc also dulls with age. Stainless is the best for long term.

 

You could powder coat them.......

I don't like painted bolt heads.............I usually wire wheel them and if they show, I brush on a bit of clear lacquer after installation.

 

Ibell101- thanks for relating your experience with eastwoods zinc and black oxide kits, i was going to buy those but i guess i wont bother, you just saved me $100, thanks-->

shad 9876- C4 is indeed metric, i know, i have one!!!

poncho 62- instead of clear laquer try clear fingernail polish, it's thicker, adheres better, it's cheap at wally mart and the little bottle comes with a little built in brush. :thumbup:

 

What I've done before with non stainless bolts is that after cleaning them I'll clear-coat them with some quality paint like header clear or Duplicolor wheel clear. After they're installed, simply make sure they're clean and spray a little more clear on them.

 

I have completely disassembled my suspension components so that I could strip, blast, prime and paint them. Even the bolts were stripped and painted. Now I am getting ready to reassemble, but I am certain that the first wrench or socket on the bolts/nuts will wreck the finish.
What do you guys do to keep the bolts looking nice.

It's too bad they're not all stainless bolts, then I could just polish them.

I have thought about putting tape on them and removing the tape after the bolts have been tightened.
Anyone tried this?

What about powder coating? Would a powder coated bolt be durable enough to withstand a wrench/socket.

Any techniques or ideas would be appreciated.

I usually spray bolts with Krylon Bright Silver, then immediately but gently wipe with a clean rag. This results in a cadmium-plated look. After installation, touch up with a brush if necessary, then coat with Krylon satin clear lacquer, applied with a brush. It's cheap, quick and easy, but certainly not as nice as stainless or chrome.

Antny

 

Be careful using the stainless bolts anywhere under stress not just where a grade 8 bolt is used because they are more brittle than iron. Also make sure you use "never seize" if it receives a ss nut also. If it threads into an iron clip or threaded hole no protection is needed. Been my experience. Any ideas you fellas have on identifying each fastener if a guy was to ship them out to a plater in bulk?? I've used my memory, parts cars and tagged duplicates but I'd like some new ideas. Thanx in advance.

 

How do I keep my nuts nice for reassembly?
You gotta be kidding :thumbup: