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How much HP will I make

5K views 26 replies 15 participants last post by  1BAD80  
#1 · (Edited)
750 Holley mec carb will be going on a 350 sbc .60 over 11 to 1 compression the cam will have 510 lift 244@ 50 310 ADV roller rockers hydraulic lifters I will be running a set of dart cast iron heads 72cc 215 runners 2.05 & 1.60 valves on pump fuel 94 % octane & some times 110, 115, % octane track fuel turbo 350 auto 2800 stall shift kit 4:56 spooled 9" in a 1950 lbs vega
 
#4 ·
I'd say at least 42 horsepower. Probably more. No, I'd say definitely more.

It sounds like you're pretty serious about power. Why not invest in some time on a dyno and get everything tuned up perfectly. Then you'll be hitting those ET's you're after.

If all else fails, add some sponsorship stickers. Those are worth at least 4 HP each.
 
#8 ·
way more

THOSE sponser ship stickers are worth
way more then that...

I have 75 sponsers that were good for 300+ parts===200k and they still support me and i am nobody---to be sure in the high performance world......

FACT =is that anybody with a good visible idea...can get untold sponsers,,,,you just got to give something very visable back....
BUT

all high performance compinies want the public to buy there parts not just racers===high volume.....so any acorn like me can get sponserships up the wasooo
with a plan....anyone really serious about getting sponsered can contact me here and for a part-joke----i'll teach you how to get them.....

we have more sponsers on our project then many famous nascar racers or dragsters,,,,,,,,,,

and -like me needing to know how much hp you get---get thee to a dyno---and i'll bet you got 325hp---at the rear wheels.....just a guess----but you'll smile when you see how close i am....

NO FOOLING ABOUT THE SPONSERSHIPS-------SEE ATACHED PHOTO

ALASKAN
 

Attachments

#10 ·
First
I think I will run a Dart single plane , it won't be an edelbrock at all don't like that stuff.

Second
Thanks to the guys that supported & answered my question,

Third
SORRY FOR ASKING SUCH A STUPID QUESTION
Maybe I should go to Wal-Mart and buy a sticker book. Maybe a Barney sticker book everyone likes Barney
 
#13 ·
Yeah, we were just havin some fun. Personaly, I think the only prob with this being streetable is the spool. It puts a lot of stress on the rear end going through the turns. That, and running the 94+ octane gets expensive. The part about the cam and heads is just gonna make it kind of a slug in the lower r's which isn't the best street application.
 
#15 ·
Well, lumpy cams usually mean high reving motors, which are not the best street machines. It really depends on how you want the motor to perform. Can you handle having an "over cammed" street car that's sluggish in the lower r's, or do you want more of a 1/4 mile killer? With the description in the beginning of your thread, it really sounds more like a trailered strip car doesn't see any street time.
 
#16 ·
gt2betubbed thanks for the suggestion , what do you think I should put together knowing I have a 350 sbc .060 over & a 750 Holley what , cam , heads, & intake would you put on it ,,,,,to get some good HP,,, you know the chevy's have to put those stangs in there place

it will be a fri sat night ride but I want to punch at times & turn some heads & be noticed ,
 
#17 ·
If you are running 11:1 compression you need to run a pretty big cam to take advantage of it. Crane Energizer cam and lifter kits are one of the best values you will ever find, Summit has the cam and lifter kits for $99. There are several different models avaliable, I would probably run the one with .500 lift.. Yes it's pretty big but made engines with higher compression and would fit yours very good, A friend of myn is running this cam in a 355 almost like yours and it's radical. I see you are not building a daily driver so streetability isn't a huge factor.. I know guys running 14:1 race 434 small blocks on the street, hell no they arn't streetable but who cares.. For heads the Iron Eagles wouldn't be too bad at all, but if you have money some AFR 190's would be great. Edelbrock Victor Jr is probably one of the best intakes you can get for a small block chevy.. That's what I'd run.
 
#18 ·
Ok, I'm no engine building guru, but this is what I would do. Since this is really a weekend cruiser and not a track car, first thing to do is loose the spool (very important, if you ask me). With the heads, I would just go cheap. Like a good stock casting that's a little worked over. Definatly a single plane intake (what ever mfgr you want). As for the cam, leave that up to the pro's. I don't think you need to go roller, just a regular cam with hydro lifters would do. Crane or comp will take all your info and set you up with the best cam for your setup, just let em know that you want it to rump as well. With this set up, it's cheap and would make that light car move pretty good. Just add a nice loud exhaust and you'll be turning heads no problem.
 
#20 ·
Just a couple of comments/questions...why the single plane intake (2500-6000)? I think you mentioned it in a previous post, that the bottom end will suffer, and the motor will take some high RPM's to come to life. For street use, would a dual plane not be a better bet? I remember when I went to a single plane on my old coupe...the bottom end bog drove me nuts. I switched back.
I am also at a bit of a loss about running the higher octane fuels. You may end up losing power with the hi-octane slow burning fuels. I would save those for your 13/1 C/R's or when adding N2O or other power adders.
Lastly ...I am jealous of someone that has 75 sponsors Alaskan, or did you mean contingency stickers on the car? And you have to have the product on the car for which you carry a sticker...

Ron
 
#21 ·
Well, I say the single because with the cam being fairly big, and the compression being on the high side, it doesn't make sense to me to have an intake that would try to perform in the lower r's when the rest of the motor won't. I see what you are saying, but like I said, I'm no guru. As for the high octane, 11:1 comp is pretty high, and it would be best to run something better than just the regular 91 (that's as high as I can get here in Sacramento).
 
#25 ·
red347 said:
Just a couple of comments/questions...why the single plane intake (2500-6000)? I think you mentioned it in a previous post, that the bottom end will suffer, and the motor will take some high RPM's to come to life. For street use, would a dual plane not be a better bet? I remember when I went to a single plane on my old coupe...the bottom end bog drove me nuts. I switched back.
I am also at a bit of a loss about running the higher octane fuels. You may end up losing power with the hi-octane slow burning fuels. I would save those for your 13/1 C/R's or when adding N2O or other power adders.
Lastly ...I am jealous of someone that has 75 sponsors Alaskan, or did you mean contingency stickers on the car? And you have to have the product on the car for which you carry a sticker..\

HI RED------NO I THINK I SAID IT PLAIN AN HONEST ENOUGH;;;AND THERE WAS ALSO A OFFER TO HELP BEHIND IT....

The bear project----75 sponsers---26.000 stright miles driven----watch this fall for the articles on this amazing suburban 4x4 hotrod and the products tested........a one of a kind 3 year project.....and watch for new engine build---ALUMINUM BEAR---IN SPRING OF 05----

Ron
:thumbup: