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How Much is the average 32?

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32 coupe
16K views 97 replies 18 participants last post by  raidmagic  
#1 ·
Ok well I'm new here and I'm 14. My dream car would be a 32 ford. First off, somebody please clarify the different ford models of the time period. What is a 32 ford coupe. And then they have model a's and it's pretty confusing. All I know is that I absolutely love the chopped 32s without fenders and big slicks. I also like 3 windows over 5. My question is is anything close to what I'm saying possible for a first car? I'm thinking a fiberglass 3 window, with a big block. I would wanna take it to the strip. I would drive it to shcool everyday though. Don't know if they're even possibly everyday cars. Looks like they can't have wipers or the right lights lol. I could probably get 7000 out of my parents and have 4k in toys to sell. All work would be free since I could do a lot of it and have a master mechanic uncle. Not looking for things like 10k dollar paint jobs or chrome everywhere. I know I sound insane just think it would be awesome to drive that bad boy to shcool. Also would be fun to smoke some ricers on the way home. Everyone has to have civics with exhausts and I just can't stand it.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Young man, you have made my day! I too remember asking such questions when I was 14. Let's take a little trip back in time......

The most memorable of Henry's cars is probably the Model T, made from about 1908 to 1927. Some 15 million of them were made. The most popular with the hot rod crowd is probably the '26/'27 roadster......
Randy Asplund Historical Art 1926 Ford Model T
Here is a collage of other Model T's.....
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...lT.jpg;http%3A%2F%2Fwww.randyasplund.com%2Fpages%2Fhistpg%2Fmodelt.html;600;450

The Model A followed the Model T and was only in production for 4 years (1928 to 1931). There were sedans (to carry 4 or more people), coupes (to carry only 2 people) and roadsters (to carry only 2 people). Also, there were pickups and roadster pickups. Think of a roadster as a convertible.
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...19856.0.21956.9.7.0.2.2.0.80.476.7.7.0....0...1ac.1.26.img..0.9.488.I0DquJJKKIo

The Model B was a one-year-only model, 1932. It was the first year for Ford to offer a V8. Previous years had all used an inline 4 cylinder motor.
They came in sedans, coupes, pickups, roadster pickups and probably a couple of models that I'm forgetting 'cause I'm just skimming over the top for you.....
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...1.6871.0.9640.9.6.0.3.3.0.81.428.6.6.0....0...1ac.1.26.img..0.9.449.mvAkOEpGrTo

You're thinking along the right track in my opinion, foregoing chrome, fancy paint and other stuff that has nothing to do with the way the car operates. Quite often, the best way to shoehorn yourself into an early rod is to find a project that has gone south for the builder because of a lack of funds to really get started with it. I would not recommend that you begin your project with a brand new glass body from a high-buck manufacturer. Check craigslist in your locale and around your state. If you like the '32, then click on cars for sale and type in 1932, then search. Or click on parts for sale and do the same.

The way I kept track of the different years was by the radiator shell.....
Here's a Model T shell....
Google Image Result for http://www.lonepinemodelt.com/image/cache/data/items/003-500x500.JPG

Here's an early Model A ('28-'29).....
Google Image Result for http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/14/91122101_R_1715b901.jpg

Here's a late Model A ('30-'31)....it was taller....
Google Image Result for http://www.fordor.com/product_images/lg/0227651F.jpg

Here's a Model B.....
Google Image Result for http://image.streetrodderweb.com/f/tech/1012sr_1932_ford_grille_shell/35044230+pheader_460x1000/1012sr_01_o+1932_ford_grille_shell+grille.jpg

Don't be confused by it all. Some guys will confuse you by mounting a B radiator shell on a T or an A model. You'll learn to tell the difference. The most beautiful shell in my opinion is the '28 A Model shell. I used one of them on the T roadster I built. Originally, they were chromed from the factory, but are just as nice looking when painted body color.....
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...eY=&docid=3rl9VYhBwyjphM&sa=X&ei=NII2UsfBOOXmiwKi0YGADg&ved=0CDQQ9QEwAw&dur=552

I have a copy of Chester Greenbaugh's book, which outlines the building a T-Bucket for under $4,000. I don't know if that interests you or not, but I might be willing to send it to you free of charge if you would like to try building a bucket. The book is in storage, so it would take a few days to find it. Here are some pics of T-Buckets......Now, don't get all bug-eyed, I doubt that any of these rods were built for under $4K.......
https://www.google.com/search?bav=o...BOOXmiwKi0YGADg&q=Model A 1928#hl=en&q=T-Bucket+roadster&tbm=isch&um=1&imgdii=_

This yellow car is a T Tub roadster.....carry more folks.....
http://www.tbucketplans.com/1927-t-bucket-roadster-project-part-1/
 
#5 ·
build an OTF

Other Than Ford , Ford bodies are expensive especially 32's, I have a Glass 32 project up in the top of the shop, a some day project. you don't list where you are located, My son bought some late 20;s metal quarter panels for $ 50 and found a cowl out in the desert south of Bonneville Free, I found an 31 Nash out in the desert FREE. It's a lot of work to put a body together, but if you read cBoys Free Ebook at the top of the page, the scratch built hot rod. I'll try to post some picts
 
#8 ·
I applaud your interest in starting with a '32 Ford, regardless of fiberglass or steel. But I'm not sure if you could even get a glass '32 fiberglass coupe body for the $11,000 you'd get from selling "toys" and parents gift. '32 Fords are the most desirable hotrod base around, and extremely over inflated pricing.
It is possible you might find a glass project that someone has given up on for that price, if you're patient, and save up the cash to be ready when one does come along. But it might be a long wait!
 
#9 ·
If a 30's hotrod is what you seek... I'de do something/anything other than a 32 Ford. Just too dang much $$.
Like mentioned elsewhere... an "off brand" body can be found for much less. Heck, even a Model A can be reasonable.
I have a buddy with a 30 Dodge Brothers "rat rod style" sedan that is sweet. He has maybe $10k into it and drives it everywhere.
 
#13 ·
I've always found that deciding on a car and drive train was the best way to start. I've also tried to purchase a donor car that matched the drive train I wanted first, as it's almost always cheaper than just buying all the pieces individually. A donor car can often be purchased for under $1500 and if you get the right car, you can have engine, trans, and even rearend from that one car. A big savings over thousands of dollars for the same items separately!
You might also end up with a good steering column and steering box that can be used, not to mention the parts you could sell off the car, and scrap value of the donor once you're done with it.
I did one project with a donor that when I finished selling parts and scrapping the car, I had zero dollars into the drivetrain from it.
 
#11 ·
Good to see a young guy interested in something other than a ricer.

A little advice from past history. I bought my first car 38 years ago at the age of 14 with yard mowing / birthday money that I had saved over about a 3 - 4 year period. It was a running, driving 48 Plymouth Business Coupe. No it was not exactly what I wanted which was an early 30's Mopar, but it got me started.

It was a car that I could learn on that would get me around. It allowed me to do a lot of the little things that an old car needs without having to worry about designing / welding brackets, frames etc. Drove it for about 3 years with the stock flathead, then built a very strong 383 / 727 and shoehorned it in after I had some basic experience. Eventually got an offer on the car that I couldn't refuse, minus motor/transmission which I kept and put in a 73 Cuda. Traded the Cuda for a 34 Plymouth Coupe with a 318 the car I had always wanted (your 32 Ford) and dreamed of.

Guess what? I am now back in another 48 Plymouth Coupe with a hot rodded flathead six and love it. I don't see 20 more cars like mine at every show or cruise. It rides and drives great. There is actually room in the car to stretch out a bit unlike an early 30's.

I guess the moral to this story is start small and learn as you go. 32's are great, don't get me wrong, but they can also eat through a build budget in about the time it would take your big block 32 to get through the traps on the drag strip. A new glass coupe body will run you $6,000 plus, add in the expense of a frame, suspension, engine, transmission and your $11,000 budget is gone long before you ever get it to a driving stage. Use a decent original body and your budget will suffer even more.

Expand your horizons a bit and look at something other than a 32. You may be surprised at what you can find for a decent price. Get you something that can get you into the hobby and offer a learning experience. Then as your budget allows and you still have that dream of a 32 coupe, step up to fulfill your dream. You may find yourself right back where you started one day like I have.

Good luck what ever you decide.
 
#12 ·
27 rpu budget

My grandson's 27 T roadster pickup budget, basic pieces, Model A ford frame $ 100, box and new crosmembers $ 300. lincoln front beam suspension from old hay wagon, $ 25, rebuild $200. beater chevy V8 pickup for engine , trans, rear end $ 800, Model A ford pickup bed from old trailer $ 75 (needs a new tailgate ). 27 T roadster Cowl FREE, find or build the rest of the bucket $ ??? almost a roller and running
for about $1500, Then it's time for paint, upholstery, new windshield.
 
#14 ·
Like I was saying before, I don't really care about anything besides it being fast and semi-reliable. If it has to look like a ratrod for a bit then I'd be fine with that. My uncle has some magical resources where I can obtain many of the big things for free or cheap. He just built a 93 ramcharger that looks pretty good using almost new tires which he got for a great price, used rear, and more used things for 700 all in. That's what I'm looking for. A maybe 80s mustang or camaro donor would work maybe?
 
#21 ·
A little more advice that I am pretty sure you will not listen to because when I was your age I wouldn't listen to it either. :rolleyes:

Maybe take a step back from a big block to a stock small block like a 318 / 283 / 289 or something in that range. You could always jump up to the big block once you have time and miles under your belt. In other word driving experience.

When I was 16 my uncle had a 70 Road Runner with a with a nasty 440 that would carry the front tires on launch and was a street car. He was going to sell it and said he would carry a note for me as I was helping him in his body shop. I was drooling over the car, but my mom said absolutely NO WAY. I was extremely POed and thought she was being a huge Biatch.

Looking back, I thank God she said no. The way I drove my 48 Plymouth with the flathead and my 3 deuce 327 / 4 speed 62 Impala, I would have killed myself or someone else with the Road Runner.

My suggestion is take it easy in the beginning and work your way up to a big block 32. I want to make sure that I follow your builds for years to come, not read about you wrapped around a tree somewhere.
 
#22 ·
I wouldn't wan't to kill myself either. I would just like to have the power when I need it, like at the strip. But anyway I couldn't get any of that. What car would be the best donor for front suspension, rear and stuff like that. Want to buy the engine separately. I plan on drag racing a lot.
 
#23 ·
BIG BLOCK in a deuce coupe? Kinda kills the vibe for me; but lots of guys do it. If you want to do it on the cheap, find a 27-T coupe body and make your own frame; S-10 axle and a i-beam front axle. Run a smallblock and a TH350 from a pick up truck or something. Throw some tuck n roll on a Dodge Caravan seat and call it good. 90% of what you want at 40% of the price.
 
#25 ·
Don't buy a frame from TCI or whoever. Not that they're bad, but you'll probably find yourself modifying or adding to your brand new brightly painted $1,000 frame. Yes you can 'box' a model A frame. A couple problems here, you'll still probably want to cut it for a drop; and you're welding steel thats been subjected to who knows what for almost 100yrs. Learning things like scrub, radius, and designing your suspension...way quicker and easier. Use these plans as a sample. They're for a 'glas T'bucket. Ron Young drew these up, you'll see his posts on some websites under the name "Youngster." He's since passed away, and these plans are his way of giving something to guys like you. Are there things wrong with these plans? Not really, certainly things other guys might do differently, but nothing in here is a "bad" idea. A couple lengths of 2x3 box tubing and you're on your way.
http://www.netquickposse.org/tbucketeers/Youngsters_T_Bucket_Frame_Plans_V1_0.pdf
 
#26 ·
So this is what my uncle said. He said it wouldn't be drivable everyday like in rain, and the insurance company wouldn't let me. Is that true? He also said it wouldn't be very safe since the rear is light. And he thinks the price is huge. This is about the 32. What do you guys think about that?
 
#27 ·
He is mostly right.
A small lightweight ill handling coupe with way too much motor isn't your best choice....and there isn't an insurance company on the planet that will give you the time of day.
If you want an old car as your first, try looking at 50's to 70's stuff....off brand, or more doors even better. 50's is dead cool, and my first choice always. But hard to find or fabricate parts sometimes. Look at some late 50's early 60's stuff, patina is cool, Mexican blankets make foraa nice interior, a cut coil or 2 and get it Down, some white walls, and enjoy having something unique, something reasonably reliable, and dead cool.....and room for your friends.....and a bench seat is a plus with the honey's....chicks don't dig tiny cramped loud rough riding coupes lol. Late 60's or early 70's allows for modern suspension, common power plants, easy and cheap parts. Lots of room for excellent stereo's....and all come with a cheap inital buy in and cheap insurance. Fast can come later....like anything else, get good before you get fast....in this instance I mean driving btw lol.
My son is 15, he has driven my low rider/rat rod meteor many times and loves it, big stereo, cool patina, his friends all dig it big time. He will ne driving it next year. I also have a very very quick 71 comet, think small muscle car sorta deal....and he has driven that, he thinks its cool and sounds nasty but his first choice for next year when he gets licened will be the big cruiser ......all I'm suggesting is keep an open mind, keep your goals realistic and acheivable, and for gods sake don't go to the dark side with the big H and a fart can.
 
#28 ·
ok ,sorry but your uncle is right, he has the tools and the skills. you say your 14 in your posts. i feel at this time you need to listen to your uncle he is your mentor.as you want a viper to start your build. at 50 i want a viper to start my build. so sit down with your uncle make sure you have 11k at your age in hand, and then your uncle can set you right. he is family he knows first hand so listen to him!!!
 
#32 ·
Lol....yah, I meant Honda's......glad to hear that isn't gonna happen.....not to shamelessly self promote but here is my junk, and the big one is what my kid will share with me next summer..
Its reliable, its cool, its comfortable, its reasonably safe, gets decent mileage, has 1200 watts and a couple subs, I listen to CCR real loud, he listens to Odd Future real loud lol....and best of all I have $3400 in the entire deal.
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