don't know what car you putting the radiator in but if you want a Be Cool radiator , call them tell them what you have and they will tell you what radiator you need. No need to do all the math that's what they are there for.

 

don't know what car you putting the radiator in but if you want a Be Cool radiator , call them tell them what you have and they will tell you what radiator you need. No need to do all the math that's what they are there for.

Applications to 700hp

They put together an application for the 59----425hp 454ho GM Crate
Works pretty good

Bryan

 

Denny, I always suspected that Thermodynamics was Witchcraft, you've now confirmed that for me.

So your 410 is that an FE or MEL block? Just wondering how badly the front end of the Chevy is suffering.

Bogie

 

don't know what car you putting the radiator in but if you want a Be Cool radiator , call them tell them what you have and they will tell you what radiator you need. No need to do all the math that's what they are there for.

ive only found radiators from them through jegs and summit and they can only handle 300hp

 

http://musclemotorsports.com/cooling-radiators.html


great deals on high performance parts

Shane

 

don't know what car you putting the radiator in but if you want a Be Cool radiator , call them tell them what you have and they will tell you what radiator you need. No need to do all the math that's what they are there for.

its going into a 1970 el camino with a 350sbc. ill still call them an ask even tho they just say 300 max hp.

 

http://musclemotorsports.com/cooling-radiators.html


great deals on high performance parts

Shane

thats an awesome site thanks a bunch Chevrolet4x4s

 

Denny yeah just curious since Ford made 410s in the both the FE and MEL blocks, the latter being one heavy motor.

Several decades back when I lived in San Diego I bought a Ford half ton with a 292 and a 4 speed for hauling parts around the city. Naturally it got pressed into service hauling buggies and bikes out to Borrego Springs and Glamis on the week ends. Trying to haul all the camping gear and trailer full of machines just proved too much for the 292. So I slipped a Lincoln 430 into it. What an improvement! That thing would grunt all day long in 4th.

Bogie

 

another quick question is how do i determine what psi cap i should get??? with the stock setup i have right now its a 17 psi cap. do i just stay with that???

 

I'd like to highjack this thread and ask another cooling question.
I have a '75 GMC truck with a 350/290 hp GMPP engine and have cooling problems at high speed (230+ and climbing temp at 70 mph highway speeds). Since there is no problem with cooling at idle (7 blade stock fan with thermal clutch and shroud; idle temps at about 200-205), it looks like its probably not the fan or shroud. The best guess anyone has come up with is that either airflow at speed is bypassing the radiator, or a I need more heat removal capacity from the radiator.

Assuming that I need more cooling from the radiator, would it be better to go to a four-row GM radiator (my stock one is 3 row), or should I use a two-row aluminum radiator. I'd like to stay with engine-driven fan and shroud to keep electrical load down.

Thanks,

Bruce

 

I'd like to highjack this thread and ask another cooling question.
I have a '75 GMC truck with a 350/290 hp GMPP engine and have cooling problems at high speed (230+ and climbing temp at 70 mph highway speeds). Since there is no problem with cooling at idle (7 blade stock fan with thermal clutch and shroud; idle temps at about 200-205), it looks like its probably not the fan or shroud. The best guess anyone has come up with is that either airflow at speed is bypassing the radiator, or a I need more heat removal capacity from the radiator.

Assuming that I need more cooling from the radiator, would it be better to go to a four-row GM radiator (my stock one is 3 row), or should I use a two-row aluminum radiator. I'd like to stay with engine-driven fan and shroud to keep electrical load down.

Thanks,

Bruce

Try buying a new fan. It sounds like the clutch is out. I was having the same problem and changed the fan and it's all better now

 

I have a stock steel GM fan and Hayden severe duty fan clutch that is less than a year old.

I don't doubt that it worked for your truck to replace the clutch, but I'm trying to figure out what is really happening with my truck. My truck will idle all day without overheating, and that is usually where a fan or fan clutch problem shows up.

How does the fan and fan clutch enter into the cooling system equation when I'm driving at 70 mph? At 70 mph and about 3300 rpm, which is when I see overheating, shouldn't the fan clutch be free-wheeling?

Bruce

 

Dammit all to (well)
Thought I posted a reply earlier----must have hit close instead of submit :drunk: :drunk: :drunk:

I would think you have a plugged radiator or weak water pump.
don't need no stinking fans @ 70

I have a tall 4-row in my 79 454, The only time it even gets warm, is when I'm in traffic, not moving. (twin 12" electric since 1990)

Fans only come on after I shut the truck off (yea, I know, not wired to an ignition circuit--straight to battery----lot younger & Dumber then )

I would imagine a 3-row would be fine for a sbc, Perhaps it is plugged???
Even the small radiators in these trucks were overkill for most applications.

Try to find a 454 rad----they are 4-row---If you already have the tall radiator (pretty much as tall as the core support) only mods will trimming the isulator mounts. If you have the shorter one (about 4"below the top of the support) you will need an upper mount and some nut-serts to mount the upper mount.

(Hit SUBMIT REPLY)

 

Oh yea-----check the timing

That solved 90% of the cooling issues I had with the 59---a GM Crate 454
This car has a much smaller 2-row Be-Cool.

I bought the BeCool cause a new 4-row would not cool at cruise----turns out I had timing issues----now I gotta figure out what to do with a new OEM type 4-row for a 59

Bryan

 

As you suggested, the 454 4-row radiator will fit in my '75, and I can pick up the right mounting brackets from one of the junkyards. The 3-row radiator I have is only about 2 years old and it seems to flow very well, but maybe I got a bad one. I may also try a high-flow water pump, but the good ones are quite a bit more expensive than a stock water pump.

I'll also try dialing the timing back a little and see what happens. I'm running about 12 degrees BTDC initial timing, and the stock recommended is 8 BTDC. I also get about 18-20 degrees more from centrifugal advance and about 18 degrees from the vacuum advance.

Thanks,

Bruce