The Torker (Uuhgg ) and the Weiand Accelerator are both a step backwards from what you have now, I wouldn't even consider them at all. The Performer RPM maybe, would take back-to-back testing against your Vic Jr to actually see which is best,

If it was me I would be changing the CAM before anything else.

The Vic Jr is a real good intake that often produces more low and midrange power than most people will give credit for. It just depends on the combination.

 

The Victor Jr. single plane will work fine (unless you have bitter cold winters)... a bit more highest RPMs HP, but slightly softer mid RPMs torque than a Performer RPM dual plane... seat of the pants you prolly wouldn't be able to tell the difference in any of them...

The Torker and Xcelerators are also single plane, but in a low rise version, so generally slightly inferior to the VictorJr...

Your claimed 2500-4500 power claim sounds wrong... usually more like 1500-4500 (stock base cam) or 2500-6500 (hot street cam)... .450/.480 lift sounds about like 216/228 durations (@ .050" lift) Crane cam... the old, extremely popular HMV272... newer name Emissions 2050... which should be about 2200 - 6000 power band... good for about 350 - 425 HP in the typical street engine with respectable heads and ~10:1 compression ratio... (assuming headers/true dual exhausts)... 225 - 325 rear wheel HP...

 

On the surface of things being said and given.............I would go with the performer high rise, no spacer. Puts the low end of this engine back to were it is suppose to be and gives up very little on the top end of your power band. (induction volume and velocity). Now with that said the Vic Jr. is an excellent mani. but designed more for the top end of your engines power band. The Vic Jr. can be reworked to be the best of both worlds for your combo.
With your combo. (as much info that has been given) all you are really doing with the mani's differences is juggling were the engine comes alive and goes away. Again, there is a matter of the rest of the combo of the engine AND the trans. AND the gearing/weight....blah, blah, blah.
Like I said, if this was my choice I would utilize the performer to its utmost while I rework the Vic Jr. for future installation and comparison. Just the looks of a Vic. Jr. wins out, but there are secrets to be had and gained from with it reworked to bring back the low end of your moderate build and fully utilize the Vic Jr's characteristics for low end and the moderate upper ranges.

 

Buzzlol I want to say it's the 272 cam. I remember seeing that on the camshaft as well as the production date that was 1986. Also it's been 20-30 degree heat lately and the truck has started and ran very well even without having a choke on it. Everyone is surprised it runs as well as it does because of the single plane. Lots of people are saying Dual plane because of the lower rpm camshaft and weight of the vehicle on top of 3:31 gears on 33s

 

steeny what are some of the modifitions that I can do to bring the low end back some with the victor Jr. I'm very curious. By what y'all have said going to a different intake will almost be a step backwards in a certain sense. I seen someone said change the camshaft but the lower power curve seems to be working well.

 

Yeah, been a mild winter here as well... 45 degrees yesterday instead of the expected 20 below zero... took the motorcycle out for a spin... if it gets much colder then your 20-30 degrees, you may be at risk of the carb. moisture freezing up inside the carb. if you don't have any intake manifold and/or aircleaner heat...

I run the same cam in a Ford 351W with a VictorJr. in a boat and like it, but the overall gearing situation is different...

Can you spin the 33" tires off the line? If looking for more low speed acceleration, basically needing more rear end gear... what's your transmission? If automatic, what's stall RPMs?

Prolly should also do the dyno run first to see if getting the expected RPMs (up to 6,500 max), torque, and HP... or if there is another problem...
.

 

Yeah the 33s will break traction but I never dump the clutch. It's a sm465, a big ole truck trans, and when I get into it never drops below 2500 when I shift. I know when I shift into 4th the truck is dead but I'm already running 70. My combination seems to work it's just it's mismatch and has the odds against it to run (supposedly) as fast as it does. I thought I would get some input and see if there's much else I can get out of it without making big changes or losing top end for when I like to beat up on diesels

 

The mod I have proposed will help the truck from falling somewhat on its face in 4th. I am presuming that a timing curve and fuel curve is already optimized.

Like a timing curve and like a tuned exhaust, the velocity/timing curve inside the mani. for induction is tuned to the rest of the combo. each helping the other to a common goal, raising the whole. Sum of all its parts.

Have to remember it is the sum of all its part thing to the whole for trans, gearing, weight, chassis, aero, blah, blah, blah....

This, to me, is really what you are asking for and trying to accomplish.

 

Extend the inner runner walls further into the plenum to almost touch each other (size of a nickle circle on the floor center) at the floor of the plenum. Those four extended runner walls should do a parabolic curve up from the floor and back to the as cast runner wall at the top of each runner. Blend them into the existing runners. Put a 1/4inch radius on the parabolic curve at the other end of the added runners. Blend the runners original casting (at the top of each runner) to a smooth radius into each runners ceiling.

I have done this many times for myself and others. This mod brings back a stronger low end from a soggy one. I have proven this out by all of them I have done this way by seeing the increase of 60ft times and a snappy, harder launch.

This is just a beginning to the mods that actually work in the real world experiences.

You can actually thank Vizard initializing thoughts for this type of mod.
I have just expanded with this concept. There is more that I have experimented with inside this mani. but have not become convinced of any gains from the reults....they seem to not hurt but the inconsistencies are too great to get any real feel for whether they are beneficial or not.

 

Thank you steeny for the idea! I have another victor Jr, same number and everything I picked up at a swap meet that I will try it on and see what happens. Would you happen to have any pictures of an intake you've done this too? I'd like to see what it should look like so I don't mess it up haha. I do and don't have the fuel and timing right. It does its best at 34 degrees of timing and when I put it way rich on the jet.

 

That green truck in the picture has a comp cams solid roller 268ar complete kit. with cheapo aluminum 190 heads, manley valves, shaft rollers (1.6), performer intake, hooker 1.625 headers, 625 carter comp series, MSD with a very quick curve/ported vac can and 9.8 comp. ratio flat tops (2 eyebrows). It has the stock sm465 and dana 4.10's. Pulls HARD through all the gears.
That sm465 is going bye, bye and a 68 muncie M20 will be installed this spring.
Gonna clean it all up interior wise with buckets seats, new dash and rear fuel tank.....A/C and P/S too!!!!
Just for something to drive and enjoy.

 

Well I say 70 because that's about what the speedo says but it's more of at least 85 because the truck originally had 456 gears and now I have 331s. The truck pulls hard as hell from 2500-4800. And the combo came from 3 different engines that got pilled up. I had a block, I bought a crankshaft, I had 7 rods and piston out of a blown up engine, the valves were a brand new set of manleys I had laying around, same with the intake, and the cam was cheap and kinda met with expectations. We were looking for power in 2500-5000 range. The motor work turn 6000 in 2nd gear quick as hell do to the trans gearing. Rpms were a factor with the old tcase and drivetrain. If I swap the camshaft I'd still like to keep the Rpms below 6000, which the intake is coming alive and the heads are probably about to start choking out. not 100% positive about that tho. I'd like to dyno it just to see were I am now and what changes I can make to improve. And of the 1/8 will be the final test

 

Here's a pic of somebody else's walls in the plenum. Mine I bring them a little closer together on the floor (tangent to a circle the size of a nickle) then the parabolic curve to the top of the wall. More of a shark dorsal fin style. Also mine are done not so thin and sharp on the walls edges. More fat and rounded, more like a fat dorsal fin. I also give a slight twist and tilt to those added walls towards each inner runner (very slight! Relative to the inner runner of the head). The top of each runner is rolled into the ceiling of the starting of the port to the bottom of the carb pad. I also don't have that flat pad at the top of those walls, just radius to the top, blended to the runner ceiling. Again, think fat shark dorsal fin blend to the sharks body only in this case it is at the top of the runner. The outer "V" walls also rolled to a 1/4" radius.

I believe I have explained that well enough. I hope so anyways.

 

I believe I have explained that well enough. I hope so anyways.

I understand and see what ya talking about now. I just couldn't picture it without seeing the intake at first. I'm gonna give that a shot one day on my spare intake and see if I notice a difference. I looked up the specs on that comp cam I see it has more lift on the intake and seen there dyno test on a 357 and I was shocked about the torque it was producing at such low rpm as well as the Hp it made in my target range

 

How is Weiand an offbrand Hcompton?

 

Since they make them in China now... LOL!

 

Here's an earlier version on a dominator mani. for a higher winding 413sbc. Edelbrock does this in their stock form. I just kinda cleaned it up some.

A lower powered version, the walls are extended further into the plenum and close together at the floor. But all mine have been the fat walls like this but with a little more twist and tilt.

 

Sounds like you have the right combo to me for what you want... that cam should begin to really pull around 1500 RPMs... torque peak between 3300 - 4500 RPMs... HP peak at 5500 - 6000 RPMs... shift by 6200...

Of course, to do all that, as the others said: the air cleaner has to let enough air in, the headers let it all out, true duals exhaust with high flow mufflers, fuel pump has to maintain at least a psi or two up to 6200, ignition has to hang on to 6200+, valve springs have to be correct and fresh enough to last till 6500, all the cam lobes and lifters in good shape, carb. working good, etc...

The cam you have will prolly max out those Dart 180cc heads which are prolly good up to about 425 HP... if anything, they may be a little constipated on the exhaust port side... intake ports usually good...
.

 

Sounds like you have the right combo to me for what you want... that cam should begin to really pull around 1500 RPMs... torque peak between 3300 - 4500 RPMs... HP peak at 5500 - 6000 RPMs... shift by 6200...

Thats what I got. The motor has maybe 2500 miles on it but she's been run hard haha. Mud bog, stupid crap haha. The exhaust is full length 1 5/8 headers, and 2 1/4 exhaust all the way back too red hot glass packs that dumps right in front the rear axle. Something stupid Loud. It has an open element 12" air filter on it. The distributed is a accel hei. The fuel pump is a Holley 110gph mechanical. I have a mad 6al box laying around, may get a mechanical advance distributer later.

 

Another version was I blended the top of each port radius all the way up to approx. 1/4" from the bottom of the carb pad and blended the outer walls up to the pad staying with the "v" shape. The top radius made for a thin ceiling to pad but I built up the outside around and below the outside of the pad and runner with marine epoxy. That also was my personal mani. and it worked great for no lose of 60ft but helped a coupla hundred at the top end. The engine felt like it flat planed out a couple hundred RPM's later. Too me the heads and ports showed they were all done at 7600rpm just before the lights.

Hope I have given you my concepts of what has worked in the past for me.

I can't find the pics of that one at this time.

 

I too believe you can get more aggressive with your cam choice. If this is what you choose to do go a roller cam. Get up there in the 550 lift and 230* dur. @.050. Max those heads out!!

 

The ratio on the heads are pretty good for what they are. Get more aggressive with the cam...lord knows you have the trans ratio and gears to support it (could use 3.70-4.10). The wide spread from 2 to 3 is the only down fall. Keep the induction flow high with the mani. (try that mod on the Vic Jr.) get rid of those glass packs and tune it dead nuts with carb and timing. Just don't pull it down under 3k under load, run it to 6k. Bet it would surprise ya!

 

There are plenty of American made Weiand intakes around, and TBH I haven't been thrilled by recent dualplane Edelbrocks. However, thats not germane to the conversation at hand. Follow Steeny's advice and you'll have a good start.

Im surprised that the Weiand Team-G manifold gets no love. Here's a test of 19 singleplane intakes

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1306-19-single-plane-small-block-chevy-intakes-test/

 

Wow! That good too hear about the heads I didt think they had that much potential. I will defiantly try the intake trick! On the exhaust what would y'all recommend flow master wise? Super 10s? I do like loud haha. If a camshaft will help me that much then I will go ahead and start looking. Now this was in my freinds 406 with a 630 lift cam, it had the 4-7 firing swap which gave it some more power. Would you recommend that or is it even worth trying that in this application?

 

Wow! That good too hear about the heads I didt think they had that much potential. I will defiantly try the intake trick! On the exhaust what would y'all recommend flow master wise? Super 10s? I do like loud haha. If a camshaft will help me that much then I will go ahead and start looking. Now this was in my freinds 406 with a 630 lift cam, it had the 4-7 firing swap which gave it some more power. Would you recommend that or is it even worth trying that in this application?

No the correct cam for a 406 with 600 lift would be wrong for this build as well just in the other direction.

You want a cam that is well matched to the heads and other parts of the motor. The heads probably make the best flow at .520-.550 as you can see flow begins to drop off at 600 lift.

Your exhaust is going to need to be up to the task. from headers to tail pipes. Not just the muffers. most flowmasters will flow great and dont really present much restriction at all. So the one that sounds the best is probably the right choice.

Do you want to go roller or flat tappet. Also solid or hydraulic cam. Both things are important when picking a cam. Also the cost of roller is a major concern for most people. Solid lifters need adjustment but offer some good benefits for mud trucks they support higher rpm ranges and dont drop off like hydraulics do after the power band. They just keep revving for a few more rpm than the hydro again there is a cost concern as well the heads need to be setup to support a solid cam without headaches.

Is the bottom end of the engine stock or built?

Forget the 4-7 swap its not made for this type of build and will only give a few ponies. With a victor intake it will not even be that. They have a good balanced flow. They really come into there own above 6K rpm. Your engine will not be making mad power above that level.

Hope this helps.

This has helped! ALOT!!!! The headers are 1 5/8" full length headmans, with pretty much straight back from there to were it dumps over the rear axle. I imaging it should be enough (maybe)

 

Exhaust is subjective. I like Spintech, Borla and Hooker (Aerochamber)

 

Don't have to be flow master for me. I'll go with what works the best without breaking the bank and still has a good sound. I only had the red hots because something cheap and loud

 

Those newer, improved Dart SHP (Super High Performance) 180cc heads prolly flow a bit more than yours... especially on the exhaust side... only change I would suggest is 1.6 rocker arms to get the lift up over the stock Chevy 1.5's... yielding like .484"/.512" lift... plus a couple degrees of effective cam duration... of course, when I put your cam grind in my 351W, the Fords come stock with 1.6 ratio rockers (aftermarket tries to sell them 1.7's)... but really poorly flowing later stock heads... I used Dart/World 195cc heads...

And I would prefer 2 1/2" or 3" mandrel-bent exhaust pipes with 3" core mufflers...

Most muffler tests show Flowmasters to be among the worst flowing mufflers, despite their name... and also usually too loud/boomy/drummy... And some glasspacks have perforations sticking down inside that create flow blocking turbulence... The old Chevy 'chambered exhaust pipes' suffered from the same problem...

 

Those newer, improved Dart SHP (Super High Performance) 180cc heads prolly flow a bit more than yours... especially on the exhaust side... only change I would suggest is 1.6 rocker arms to get the lift up over the stock Chevy 1.5's... yielding like .484"/.512" lift... plus a couple degrees of effective cam duration... of course, when I put your cam grind in my 351W, the Fords come stock with 1.6 ratio rockers (aftermarket tries to sell them 1.7's)... but really poorly flowing later stock heads... I used Dart/World 195cc heads...

And I would prefer 2 1/2" or 3" exhaust pipes with 3" core mufflers...

It's the new shp heads. I bought them bare and put my stuff in them. I have consider 1.6 rockers and I have the clearance. I will have too say this thread and all of yalls input has really pointed me in a good direction as far as we're the improvement can be found. I most likely won't change the camshaft right now untill next winter when I refreshing it. But i will do different mufflers and the 1.6 rockers. Also I will play with the other intake.

 

The flow chart shows the Dart SHP's intakes basically all done by .400" lift... with maybe a tad more on the exhaust by .500" lift... although Comp claims you can take away 2/3's of exhaust lift with little effect, because the exhaust operates at such high pressure on the engine... the main reason budget split duration cams usually have higher exhaust lifts is because they use the same lobe designs for both intake and exhaust and the longer duration lobes have more lift... although some split duration cams for specific engines will have same lift on both, because these stock engines can't handle any higher lifts without special clearancing of the pistons that many customers don't want to do...

Do your headers have 2 1/2" or 3" outlets?

 

I have 2 1/2" collectors

 

Check out Jones Mufflers, Summit has them, seem to be a real nice set-up. Good flow and good quality materials.