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ladder bars in my chevelle

19K views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  Bluemagic920  
#1 ·
ok well i have some ladder bars i will be putting in my chevelle when the body and some actual weight is back on the car. but my question is do you keep the upper control arms when you go to ladder bars? i was recently told that the lowers have got to go so now i can't use my sway bar for this also. does a panhard bar act like a swaybar or what? competition engineering recommends using a panhard bar upon installment of their ladder bars. any info on this would be great! i tried searching on here but got didnt retrieve up any info. see ya
 
#5 ·
brainsboy- thanks for the offer (?) but i already have boxed lower control arms and since i will be eliminating them then i wont need another pair:p .

billyshope- all he has is the stock setup with airbags and an added sway bar. im going for more of the straight line route and thought it would be best if i went with ladder bars other other than traction bars or an all out 4 link setup. thanks for the link though.
 
#6 ·
what is your intended use of the vehicle if you have boxed in your control arms i would just replace the bushings and use them that way unless it is an all out drag car i wouldn't go with the ladder bars. and for the street you would be better off with the four link you have now eich is what the stock is.
Jesse
 
#7 ·
well iam planning on hitting up the strip quite a bit but i also want to drive it on the street also. im hoping to see 10's when all is said and done with the motor though, thats why i thought i should go with ladder bars. :confused:
 
#8 ·
Ladder bars are no good for the street. They are designed for straight line as in drag racing.
Trust me I went that route and found out the hard way.
I've now built a new frame and went with a tri-angulated 4 link and air ride. You on the other hand can use coil-over shocks. No need for an anti-sway or panhard bar with this setup.

http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950bulletnose/Triangular4Link1.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950bulletnose/Triangular4Link2.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950bulletnose/RearShockwave3.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950bulletnose/NewFrame16.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950bulletnose/AirbagsIFS1.jpg
 
#9 ·
why are the ladder bars no good for street use? and why would i only need to run the coil overs? everything will still be able to twist at launch still right? as compared to using a sway bar to help with that.
 
#10 ·
Ladder bars don't allow for roll. They will only travel up and down. As you can guess this would make them no fun on the street.

Think of it this way...
When you take a right hand turn the body wants to roll to the left. This causes the left ladder bar mount to want to go down and the right ladder bar mount up. This tries to twist the axle tube and in essance turns the axle tube into "one really huge sway-bar!". Obviously the axle tubes arn't going to twist (till you shear the plug welds holding them into the axle housing:( ) and what you end up with is a car that can't roll. If you hit a pot hole with just one tire it will transmit the force through the axle and to the body and will cause a very jaring ride on anything that isn't smooth.
 
#11 · (Edited)
With coil-overs you don't need anything else. Also coil-overs give better launch characteristics.

Again ladder bars are for drag racing only and if someone told you different, you're in for a costly mistake. I know, I went that route and it cost me. I'm now selling the ladder bars and coil-overs to recoupe some of my loss.

Ladder bars use a lateral bar as opposed to a panhard bar. Attached pic of my old setup.
http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950bulletnose/stude1015.jpg
http://www.angelfire.com/super/1950bulletnose/stude1016.jpg

A Tri 4 link and a parallel 4 link are the only ways to go for a street application. I don't think a tri 4 link would be any good on the strip, I'd go with a parallel 4 link if you're thinking of the pro street approach.