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LS based "Luddite" engine build

2.3K views 31 replies 8 participants last post by  Scott Danforth  
#1 · (Edited)
For a few months I have been discussing the Fiat engine..... Time to start fine tuning the thoughts

There will be no plastic or ECM. This is a carb build

There may be an ignition driver for spark unless I can fit the cam driven dizzy to fit with the radiator

Short block will be a 5.3 LS4.

The block is a FWD LS variant with the 60 degree V6 flywheel housing mount. The sleeves are ultra-thin, so max overbore is 0.020" to a final bore of 3.800". Unlike the other LS 5.3 variants, this block can NOT be bored to 3.9"

Initially the short block will be stock until I blow it up.

Bearings will be swapped

The heads will be stock 243 castings.... And will be hand ported by me. Yes, CNC porting may be better..... But nowhere near as cathartic.

Springs are still TBD, however will be a bit on the heavy side to keep the lifters tight against the lines up to 7500

Cam will be a Comp XER281 or a TSP MS3.

The lifters will be Johnson LS7 or the "caddy" racing lifters from GM

Instead of the stock lifter trays, I want to copy the Jesel dog bone retainers as I do not want plastic bits in the motor

The rockers are yet to be determined. Leaning towards stock rockers and lash caps because the lift will be over 0.600". However may go with 1.72:1 rollers from TSP

The water pump must be remote mounted. Right now looking at the Mezier electric pump, the alternative is a belt driven Mezier

No power steering.

AC compressor will be mounted under the head on one side, the alternator on the other. However the recent rain in Florida has me looking at mounting the alternator up high in the valley

Flywheel is currently the flex plate and a quarter master 2-disc clutch. Under 17# total
 
#3 ·
Here is the Jesel lifter retainer that I am seriously considering, or the dogbone retainers. the issue is they are a bit pricey.... originally went down a link-bar lifter rabbit hole. however the tie bar or link bar lifters have their own set of issues, especially if staying with a hydraulic lifter. Link bar lifters will be in the $600-800 range, these retainers are about $125 each, so a bit over $600. then on top that, the lifters that I am looking at are in the $500 range. that puts the lifters and retainers the most expensive part of the build so far to date. the cam and springs will be the second most costly part.

While the GM plastic lifter trays are perfectly fine 98% of the time, I usually am the unlucky guy with the one in a million failure. my luck, one missed shift, the motor bangs off the valve float RPM, the lifters hit a harmonic frequency, pound a bunch of dents in the lobe, and one hit too many, the plastic tray cracks and the lifter turns in the bore, eating the lobe and ruining the block in a fraction of a second.

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being a pure luddite build, I prefer to have something that I can beat into position with a rock
 
#5 ·
however your low-mount has the serpentiene belt significantly forward of the block face with the standard type 1, 2, or 3 water pump locations.. I need to have everything behind the block face using the LS4 damper and shorter crank to fit. I may end up running the stock GM compressor they supplied with the LS4's on the left side as it simply bolts to the block. however did interfere with the steering on the fiat. may need to revisit that.
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#10 ·

He is a member at LS1 tech


I used a bit of his threads for inspiration
 
#12 ·
So to summarize:

5.3L LS4 10:1 Compression

Mild Ported 799/243 heads

Single plane intake and 830cfm Holley carb with annular boosters

Headers: Mid-length (ish)
Unboosted (no turbo, blower, or nitrous)

Going into a Fiat weighing 2200lbs+driver

3.07 or 3.54 rear with 26.85 tall tires

AR5 Trans: 3.75 first, 2.26 second, 1.37 third, 1:1 fourth, and . 73 overdrive

Mostly street use with occasional strip and autocross

Streetable at 1500 RPM without drive line rubberbanding.

Desire to push it up to 7k+

Pushing the RPM curve upward.

TSP MS3 or Comp XER281HR cam

Sacrificing low end torque for upper RPM power

Twin disc 7-1/4" quarter master clutch

Remote water pump
 
#13 ·
Are you planning on using a block mount or remote mount water pump? From what you are saying about clearance issues a remote mount (usually in the lower hose) sounds like it would be better. While closer to the engine and radiator is better due to hose lengths and routing, the pump can technically be mounted anywhere you have room. Maybe under the fender behind a headlight in that little Fiat. Just make sure you have a mud shield. I'd also consider an electric AC. you probably have more room for a bit larger alternator and higher amp battery (for surge loads) than for an AC compressor.
 
#14 ·
still vacillating between electric water pump and belt driven remote. the electric would be nice as I can package that in the cowl behind and above the motor. however the electric will not keep the motor cool on a road course. the down side to the mezier remote is max RPM is 7000 RPM. so I have to run a 1:1 belt ratio, so that means an 8" diameter pulley.

currently the plan was having the mezier belt drive pump up in the valley between the heads, however with low mount alternators in the current flood-prone state of florida, going to swap them and put the alternator up there, and the water pump down under the right head. AC compressor will be in stock location. not enough room for an alternator bigger than 90 amps. so an electric AC compressor is out.

There is no room in the fenders as the wheel/tire packages I am running are about 5" bigger than what was on the fiat originally.
 
#15 ·
Follow the link for another way to go with a Gen 1’ish block and LS heads.


Bogie
 
#20 ·
Been focused on interior, etc.

however just looked at replacing the 0.051" head gaskets with 0.027" cometic gaskets on a stock bottom end. it bumps the compression ratio up to 10.6 from 10.3 Not bad, about an estimated 11+ hp bump across the board from 4000-6000 RPM. whole lot cheaper than milling the head.

also went down a few rabbit holes on using the small ford duraspark dizzy with the GM HEI module. That is another chapter.

the motor may have to raise up slightly from where I have it. currently the crank is at 12" off the ground. may not seem to bad, however. even the solstice GXP daily whip is at 13.5" and when they are LS swapped, there can be clearance issues. Thinking the motor needs to come up to at least 12-3/4" and a skid plate

Radiator I currently have will cool a 540hp big block. however...... running out of room in the Fiat as I add things. so If I can keep this radiator, it will most likely be modified to nest around the damper and run a pair of pusher fans.

Alternately may mount the radiator in a horizontal up-air flow manor just under the cowl area, forward of the windshield. This would turn the louvered hood to a mesh hood. unorthodox, however the whole build is to date. would have to move the front axle centerline forward about an inch or two and also move the motor forward for this.
 
#25 ·
The drive home solidified my desire to not have anything more complicated than the electric starter in the car.

Daily whip has a BCM / VATs communication issue that left me stranded on the side of the road. I couldn't even roll the windows down as everything goes through the BCM. And because the security system was active, I couldn't do anything.
 
#27 ·
looking to sell off the LS4 front accessories to those FWD folks that need spares. Since the motor only has 110k on it and looks really clean. going to do a compression test, then yank the heads.

starting to make a list of must-haves

more simple green
a gallon of coil cleaner (to clean the aluminum block)
get a new long burr for porting because it came to work with me and got damaged.
verify the tootsie roll situation
New LS7 style lifters (going DOD delete)
New lifter trays
new head gaskets
new billet "dogbone"
finned valley cover
New timing chain


New cam.......re-visiting the cam discussed here. https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/...ations-and-why.551115/?post_id=4857062&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-4857062

Quarter Master twin-disc 7-1/4" clutch and button flywheel

mini starter to modify the mount for the LS 4

F-body or vette oil pan (with baffling) or add baffling to the pans I have.
 
#28 ·
there is a Summit 8712 cam for $50 on facetube marketplace. awaiting for the seller to respond.

would allow me to put the motor together with the other LS parts I have and get it running as DOD/AFM delete for nothing more than the $50 until I get the cam/lifters/springs I want. would result in just shy of 400 at the crank.
 
#30 ·
Market place listing for new speedmaster 1.8 roller rockers for $100. Going to low-ball the seller. Not a bad price, but 2 hours away

Between the two LS4 blocks, I have 16 of the LS7 style lifters, an early timing chain set from the low mileage (busted) 2006

Working on a Victor JR intake for cathedral port heads. Trying to get the motor completed for under $800