How about full-length fenderwell headers?

 

I haven't seen those either. Not to mention... if they involve pulling the fenderwell out, I wouldn't want to do that.
My current headers are the Hedman Elites. Really very nice, but they routed them too low. They could be about 1.5" higher than they are and still clear everything. Currently with two people in the car, the exhaust flange is between 2-3" off the ground. By far the lowest part of the car and sucks to be so watchful of everything.

No question.. I'll bash the hell out of these at some point. I figure it's better to replace them now while I can still sell them for something.

 

I have a set of these on my truck. I think they'll fit yours.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hed-69648/overview/make/chevrolet/year/1970/model/c20-pickup

 

And here's a pic or two!
Ceramic coated.
12 years old now!

 

check the clearance around the headers and modify them, the mounting surface, or something else to raise them up a little.

 

I'm giving in for now, can't find anything that will work... ordered some shorty's. I plan to take the car to Gene Winfields on the 12th and don't want to drive it there with these headers on it. Don't think it'll make it without destroying them.

 

I bet mine are close to the same as yours and I am running Hooker Super Comps. They could easily make them an inch or two higher if they had a person modify the inner fender which wouldn't be that hard to do. It sure would beat having them hang so low.

This is the first summer I've had the headers on the car. I've scraped them a couple of times and had one major impact only going a mile or two out of a parking lot that had a bad lip at the exit. Ouch! I didn't wreck anything but it didn't sound very good.

I'm thinking of making a new set of headers this winter out of stainless with a few modifications to make them fit better with more ground clearance. It shouldn't be too hard if I go bythe Super Comps that are on the car and adjust them to suite my needs.

 

I have to drive a mile of rocky dirt road each way to leave my house. That's my biggest issue. Just crawling thru sections trying not to screw the headers up. Just not worth the headache and potential issue of catching them on something far from home.

 

I seen some SS ones on ebay.

 

I was all over EBAY yesterday. Only midlength I saw were for the LS conversion.
I bought a set off ebay about 2pm...I already have them!

Who knows what I end up with eventually.... if I can't sell the full length ones for much, maybe I'll look at modifying them to fit.

 

I tried to refind the article so I could post a link,but,no such luck.The article tested shortys,mid-length,& longtubes on a dyno.The shortys were the type that use stock exhaust hookups w/ 2 1/2" collector.The mid-length had a standard 3" 3 bolt header collector.I can't remember the actual gains from each offhand.Naturally the longtubes made a lot more torque & power,but,only @ higher RPMs.At lower RPMs there wasn't much difference.The type of shortys used really didn't make enuff difference to justify the costs & work to put them on @ any RPM .At higher RPMs,the mid-lengths made approx half the gains as the longtube. If I can find the article,I'll post a link.

 

I watched a youtube video where they tested long tubes versus the good rams horn and there was only about a ten horsepower difference if I remember correctly. And I believe the difference was only at about 5,000 and up.

 

Here it is. It says it's a 64 327 but they actually bored and stroked it to 383 ci.

 

One plus to the shorty's... I'll be able to go back to a crossover pipe again. The full length headers sent the exhaust too far to the outside of the car.

 

The true Ram Horn manifold flow pretty good.Prolly better than a set of cheap shortys.There are manifold that look like Ram Horns tho,that actually aren't.You have to be careful about what you get.IIRC,the major gains didn't show up until after 3000 RPMs.

 

I picked up a set of shorty's with 1.75" tubes and a 3" collector. They should do alright. I used to have a set of Sanderson cast headers on it, but they don't work with the Vortec heads.

 

i have a 350/330 crate motor with vortec heads and sanderson cast iron headers. i bought them jet hot coated about 12 yrs ago and they work great .

 

With the long tube headers open, my engine sounded like a racecar. The short tube headers open sounds like a demo derby car. Booooo...
So nice to have ground clearance again though. Lowest part on the car now is the frame.

 

well I learned something new and stand corrected. check the directions that came with them and doesn't say anything . it was my first Daytona turkey rod run swap meet purchase . what brand shorty's did you get?_

 

No clue... no name on them, got them off Ebay. They are ceramic coated with a 3/8" flange which is nice. I'm guessing they are Chinese, as the bolts that shipped with them were 10mm heads.
I only know about the Sanderson cast headers.....as those are what were on MY 350 on vortec heads. It wasn't until I pulled them off that I saw they weren't right for it.

You want some practically new full length headers? I'll make you a great deal.