I don't have bellhousing handy but I have the Muncie. They make a few different bellhousings so the dimensions will be different. The most compact bellhousing will be the one made for the small flywheel.

 

Do you have the height, length, and width of your Muncie? is it M20?
Thanks

 

A M20, M21 and M22 will all have the same dimensions. The length is 29 inches, the height is 9 inches and the width at the ears is 9.5 inches and the case is around 8.5 inches at the side cover.

 

A GM T10 and a Saginaw should also fit in the same space as a Muncie. The dimensions should be similar.

 

Thanks V-8!!:thumbup:

 

well...after constructing a mickey mouse cardboard "mock-up" of the dual m/c floor mounted brake pedal assembly, with VERY close dimensions, note in the picture THIS AINT GONNA HAPPENain:.....not only will it not fit towards the right side of the steering column its not far back enough so that my knees are not under my chin,....back to square one......

 

I'm not even going to attempt to mount the pedals on the floor on mine. My frame has a X member right under the floor boards. If I can get the F body pedals to work then I have the option of using a hydraulic clutch.

 

I guess I have to come up with some sort of frame or support up in the empty space where the gas tank location use to be...
Wonder if I can attach a cross bar, from the floor bolted on with the body bolts, then up and across to the other side? Would this be strong enough to use the "hanging style pedals"?

 

My plan is to do it just like GM did it for years. The pedals are on a hanger with bolts going through the firewall to hold on the master cylinder and clutch master cylinder. The steering column bolts to the bottom of the hanger so there is no way the pedals interfear with the steering column. I have not tried it yet, I don't know if the the steering column angle will be right. I still need to do all the suspension.

 

Sounds like a good plan, wish I had the room on the firewall.....

 

I have some pictures of cars that have the brake booster and master cylinder mounted on the firewall. I guess it all depends on the style of car someone is building. The billet types want everything hidden. Some of the old style hot rods have the engine mounted up high so there is no room. I don't have a engine in mine yet, just the body sitting on the frame. I want mine to look old school and function.

 

Outstanding! Much appreciate the effort!:thumbup:
I'm pretty sure its gonna fit, just need to find the right one with bellhousing, and solve this damn pedal assembly issue!
Thanks!

 

Well...bought the pete & jakes #2040 kit clutch&brake pedal assembly with master cylinders, and after many hours, cutting floor, and testing this assembly, I dont see anyway this is going to fit. Any one out there install this into a 31 coupe? I attached some pics to show my delimma!

 

You don't own a torch? I bet with a rose bud tip those could be bent over to miss everything, and work fine. I'd check clearances to determine if they need to be bent down low, or up higher. Either way will work, and one or the other will make it fit.
Might even have to do an offset bend to get the top to clear the column, and the bottom to clear any obstruction.

 

I dont think bending them as needed is the issue, i can bend any which way but loose, the real issue is overall length...to far forward so I can access the reservoirs, and its too narrow for the pedals, too far back for the pedal room, and I cant access the reservoirs.....talking to Pete & Jakes, they say cutting the pedals dwon shorter and I loose the correct "ratio" and will take two men and a horse to push the brakes!

 

Keep the faith, you can do this! Looks like you'll have to bend the arms, move the assembly back a bit and modify the floor to get access to the master cylinders. You could also build spool piece that bolts between the bracket and the master cylinders to move the master cylinder to the rear more if you need to clear a crossmember.

What brake pedal assembly were you using before?

Here are your photos rotated.. seems easier to see.

 

So why not open the floor some more to access the reservoirs? Even if it's under the seat it can be filled with a basting syringe. I know guys who fill their reservoir with no visual access and just fill a little, and then feel to see how close it is.
I really think you're going to get this if you open up your options and get creative.

 

I totally agree with 1971BB427. You can do this.

Envision your clutch pedal bent exactly the opposite of my brake pedal, as shown below. That would clear the column, and the bend would effectively shorten the pedal a bit also.

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OK guys....I wont quit yet...thanks for the support!
Guess I need to get more creative...
my previous brake pedal set up was the single pete&jakes kit with manual master.....I WAS considering exactly what you mentioned----bend the clutch arm exactly opposite of the brake arm (towards the left), just dont know what part of the arm is above the floor, and how much of it goes under the floor? The brake arm maybe I could bend it straight?

 

A striaght edge across the floor should tell you what part will be under the floor.

 

This started out as straight and exactly where the steering column would fit. A bit of heat along with an hour of time got it just right. The clutch, if equipped would probably be bent the opposite way. No pedal ratio change apparent and plenty of brakes though they are 4 wheel Wilwood power discs.

You need to apply some fabricating skills. As I found when building this car as any other that I've done, one change may affect 1,2 or worse many other parts that also need to be modified. Very little on a street rod is 'bolt on' capable regardless of what the advertisements hype or any of the monthly rags seem to indicate.

And what I did to clear the exhaust:

 

I think, I would be going with a heat diffuser on that exhaust pipe as it ran by the booster and M/C. Using a perforated type would give you some good air flow where you need it. Also, consider the after-drive heat that will rise off of those pipes and heat soak into metal around them.

 

It was considered but after several thousand miles - no problems though I have heat shields on the mufflers. I felt that heat would be better dissipated without any restrictions. A hand feel of the booster and MC show them to be just above ambient after a hard drive. Low mass of tail pipe thickness tubing, no cats, just wont retain heat more then a very few minutes

 

Well....after a short hiatis (sp?), back to getting these under floor pedals mounted. Have bent the clutch pedal arm as well as the gas pedal arm to a point where they are now mountable!
Had to add 7/8" to the length of the clutch pedal to match up with the gas once again. I have tacked the mounting bracket onto the frame, and once I make a new floor "patch", I will have a "pro" come in and tig everything at once.
Almost made the mistake of leveling the bracket as is.....but caught myself JUST IN TIME, since the front of the car is up in the air on ramps! Had to figure the incline out, and adjust bracket accordingly so when car is flat on ground the reservoirs will be level....PHEW!!!!

 

Excellent! How about some photos?

 

yes.....will try to get those this weekend....