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More welding rant

2.4K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  BigRoy1978  
#1 ·
Got the steering column in and while I'm waiting on the brake assembly, thought I d check out the trany mount.
It looked suspicious to me, but my buddy-a true car guy-said he'd seen a lot worse.
That statement is hard to believe. If I was out rolling on my scooter and run across a guy with welds like this on his bike. I'd be sure to stay ahead of him all day or way back, as not to run over him as he scrapes his hide off on the pavement.
I'm not a welder, but have been certified twice for stick
on mild steel. When I was young I knew I couldn't afford to hire a welder, so I learned. Another thing I can't run a wire gun, maybe some of those guys can chime in.
Hopefully you can see the bug holes and cold lap in these pictures of the welds.
If you're working on dirty, greasy,painted or rusty metal.
Use 6010-6011-6013 stick rod, the flux coating on these rods are developed to float impurities on top of the puddle. No trapped impurities, no bug holes, but you still have to clean the weld surface. Wire brush and file at least.
I don't know about wire guns, the Iron workers in construction use dual shield, that may be similar. I tried running it and it's a bear on anything but flat for me.
To fix those bug holes, I'll grind them down till I can see the bottom and know I can burn through them, so I've got solid metal all the way through. Same with the cold lap.
If your welds look like this, don't do it. Find some guy who can, take a box of beer over and get him to do it.
These low amp, chinese made, harbor freight sold, cheap, wire guns are for sheet metal. Unless you know what your doing.
OK Rants over - time for some PBR's and Hockey-
wake up with a different kind of head ache tomorrow.;)
 

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#5 ·
Yikes... I feel your pain.

I too have seen worse though. As a CWI you pretty much see it all: the good, the bad, and the ugly. They teach us you can't bust ugly.

But pin-holes, slag and cold lap are defects you can bust.

That's the rub... when buying a home built hot rod you never really know what you are getting until you start taking things apart.
 
#14 ·
I ground out the bug holes, they went to the parent metal.
It wasn't clean to begin with. One weld was smooth as butter and solid. Looked like 7018, but I think it was wire.
Although there weren't any pig tails hanging out any where.
Went over it with 6011 and hot, also boxed the bottom.
It'll be fine- cleanliness next to godliness;)
 
#18 ·
*My credentials, as people judge my welding knowledge against my age. I've passed x-ray stick tests, pipeline stick tests, stainless stick tests, stainless/mild steel/chrome-moly/aluminum and chromium tig tests in all positions. I've passed structural mig tests in all positions...ive run a welder a few times :)*

advice on dual shield...it sucks on everything except flat.

We ran dual shield, gas shielded flux core, at the weld shop just before I left...it has a lot of hype right now, but I don't like it. Lots of clean-up, slower, and hotter...and hotter IS NOT always better. But, it works great if your doing A LOT of line production fab, no changing bottles and a little less spatter.

That looks like just piss poor welding...looks like someone tried to weld dirty metal with wire feed to me.

Personally, for general fabrication...sheet metal up to 1/4 inch material wire feed shielded with co2/argon works just dandy. For anything heavier I break out some 1/8th inch 6010 5P for a root and hot pass, then cap with 3/32 7018. I like 3/32 better because its easier to control and make a pretty weld. Yeah, 1/8th works...but you can get things too hot pretty easy.

I love running 7024, or jet rod, on stuff...but it HAS to be flat or it will not work. If your building something and you have a bunch of vertical welds, I use some 1/8th 7024 for my caps...same tensile strength, just makes a darn purdy bead :)

And yeah...ugly wont bust, but making a pretty weld is just as easy as making an ugly one...just takes practice :)