take the damn knock sensor out. thats what i did on my 86 Merkur at least. is that possible or is the engine to "smart" and wont run when you do that?

 

Clean a spot on the block and epoxy it on. Works the same. Try to keep it near the bottom end of the block, mounting it near the intake would render it mostly useless.

 

Don't do what I did with my smog pump. I didn't even bother unpluging the wires to make sure it would run. I just cut off the belt,yanked off the not working a/c and the smog pump......But it worked well after that.AND A HP INCRESE!!!! Steve

 

What a lot of rodders around here have done is put a 45 adapter on the knock sensor. moves it enough to clear the headers. Thats what we done on a 35 ford with the LT1.May even have pics will see later.
<img src="graemlins/crash.gif" border="0" alt="[crash]" />
If its on a trailer its broke.

 

If its on a trailer its broke. <hr></blockquote>

It even happens to the best.Steve

 

the knock sensor is only used to detect detonation, has no direct impact on fuel and emission systems, it affects ignition timing only. as long as your timing is set correct and you have a good ear you realy do not need it. hope this helps a little.

 

Yeah but would the comp sense that it's missing an pull an error? Why not try just unpluging it and see what happens. Might take a full tank of at least 89 octane gas to see what the fuel milage might do. Steve

 

the esc module sends a voltage signal to the ecm when no spark knocking is detected by the esc knock sensor. the ecm provides normal spark advance. when knocking is detected, the esc module shuts off, causing computer to retard timing. with the sensor missing it can not send a signal. there fore you do not need it. and like i said it does not affect gas milage.

 

milner the esc module sends a voltage signal to the ecm when no spark knocking is detected by the esc knock sensor. the ecm provides normal spark advance. when knocking is detected, the esc module shuts off, causing computer to retard timing. with the sensor missing it can not send a signal. there fore you do not need it. and like i said it does not affect gas milage. <hr></blockquote>

From what your saying is that if he UNpluged it than the computer WOULD retard the timing. Did you mean the complete opposite? Steve

 

5.ol read it again very slowly. the knock sensor has to produce a voltage to turn off the esc module, if its not hooked up it can not produce voltage. to prove my point, i have had several vehicles in my shop with sensor or wire or both broken off. still all works fine.

 

Anyone understand this? From what I am reading that if it is working fine than there is a complete circuit meaning current in a full circle. But if you unplug the sensor,breaking the circuit than the comp will think there is a knock, by which means retarding the timing. Right?MY GOD WHY DOESN'T AUTO MAKERS STICK TO THE BASICS! Steve

 

The auto makes build these computer controlled new cars to become obsolete within about 10 years anyway. They no longer make parts, you can't fix your car. So now you have to fool the computer in order to run the engine if something is removed or broken. Planned obsolescence I beleave its called. They are no longer built to last, they are built to run just so long and quit just after the warranty runs out! Ha Ha Ha


Todd <img src="graemlins/mwink.gif" border="0" alt="[mwink]" />

 

Could you not find the resistance current that the knock sensor sends out and head to Radioshack and get a resistor and hook it in between the wires??? Just a thought, probably a stupid one to Milner. Steve

 

hi 5.0l, hope you do not think i am trying to be a smart ***, i may not be explaining this properly.the knock sensor does not send out voltage all the time, only when it senses spark knock.when it does it shuts off esc module, when it shuts off the computer knows something is wrong and retards the timing. all of this crap does the same we use to do when we heard the motor pinging *retard the timing*.

 

<---Dumb@$$.....I was reading it in my mind that it allows voltage to pass by during normal running, but when a knock accurs then it stops curent telling the comp to retard it....just like me. Steve

 

I know you're not being a smart a** Milner. But it really is just as easy to leave it on. 4Jaw's idea would work fine. Also, if he looks around the block he may find another hole or 2 that he can screw it into. Finally, he can just fasten it to an engine mount, that would work.

 

I think that Painless or Ron Francis wire works makes a piece that bolts onto the pan rail (thru an oil pan bolt) that the knock senor screws into so that block hugger headers can be used. Hope this helps

 

Check out this link: http://www.ronfrancis.com/M6.asp

Hope it helps.