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My home made cold air induction system....

1.3K views 20 replies 7 participants last post by  staleg  
#1 ·
It all started with the hood for my 34 build that was in too bad shape to be restored for one with my skills.
But by adding a scoop inspired by Chip Fooses P-32 project, I was able to cover the worst rust repair-areas.
And since I had added a scoop, why not make it functional as well.
Fake scoops are - fake....And a well known problem for may hot rods are too warm intake air and also overheating problems.
This hasn't been Dyno proven or anyhing, but the car do work very well. And with absolutely no overheating problems.
I would geuss the area of the scoop opening is too small. But that is a compromize for the look.
I reacently added a Stub Stack air horn. Fitted it inside the stack.
I read that velocity stacks, although they look cool, don't do any good unless you add the stub stack in the bottom of them. Lots of turbulence are built up inside these. The stub stack remove the turbulence before the air enters the carburetor.
I know, it's differences that is not possible to feel.
But I did it anyway. Just to know I have! :giggle:

Louvers in the hod helps cooling on hot days.
To prevent water to enter the motor in heavy rain, I have an aluminum cover that I quickly may fasten inside of the hood.

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#6 ·
Gotta ask, does it have windshield washers?
Yes it does.
The windshield on the pictures is the nice-weather-windshield!
I have made a fully framed windshield as well - that I may combine with the canvas top.
And fenders that's easily removable.
I love the highboy roadster look, but want the car to be useable in bad weather as well.
After all, this is Norway, not southern California....

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#8 · (Edited)
I assume you have a heater, correct? Side curtains?
Yes. I have a heater. And i have power operated hardened glass side windows.

They dont seal against the Duvall side posts, but are close enough to keep the inside dry even in hevy rain.
The windscreen posts sticks further out than the side windows, so no rain enters even with clearance enough to open the door with the side window up and no interference with the windshield posts.
Not easy to see, but on the side view picture in my last post, the side windows are rolled up.

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#12 ·
I got two damaged side doors from a common Mercedes for free from a wrecking yard. I had noticed that these cars had a narrow and slim side window gasket.
I cut the upper 2 inches from the Mercedes doors and fitted the cut outs on top of the '34 doors.
Then it was easy to fit the rubber parts from the same car as well.

Those who know the '34 will see that my car isn't a Roadster from the beginning. It was initially a 34 four door that someone had tried to change to a five window, but gave up.
I bought the body, removed the roof and added the proper rear parts.

Here's and early photo.
Taken before I had any idea how much work would be needed!:LOL:

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#16 · (Edited)
I kind of like the "overload" look on dasboards!
But everything must be in function, of course.

Gauges from left to right:
-Speed. Tach, water. oil, volt, fuel, intake vacuum, clock, AF wideband.
-Switch at the very left is el. fuel pump off/on.
-"Thing" at the very right is 12v for iphone charging etc.
-Center console is sound system equalizer, switches for seat heaters and main switch.
Small discant speakers. Main speakers in doors.
-Swtich below the water temp gauge is for manual on/off/on for one/both elelctric fans. They have an adjustable automatic switch as well.
-Ivory color knobs are for headlights, wipers, heater fan.

Rest of the sound system is a Bluetooth receiver under the drivers seat and an amplifier in the trunk.

Heater fan either blow on windshield inside when driving in rain. Those openings are closed on this photo.
Otherwise it blows through the openings below the steering wheel, on my hands.

I must call this car finished soon. Otherwise it will be too much mods.
It gets harder to do the regular maintaniance and small fixes when it's so loaded with extras.
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#18 ·
Thanks for sharing and your description. I'm builting a flathead powered T and have two water temp theromostats installed with one temp gauge that I can switch to check each senor.
Apparently each side can run at different heat levels and mostly its an install to tweek my pair of thermostats.
Just for the fun of it I am also running a dual face air/fuel ratio gauge to give me an idea of how my fuel mixture is doing.
Gauges can be so helpful at times.
 

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