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My Ready-to-run 8552 distributor will not work with Blaster 2 coils.

1.9K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  ericnova72  
#1 ·
Buick Electra 1967 with 430. New distributor, new sparkplugs and wires.
(With modern generator with cable hack, when I set ignition on, it buzzes and the battery volts drops, I waited until it stabilized and then made the following testes.)


My rusty no-name coil make it run as it should every time.
But i want a new and improved, so I bought two Blaster 2 coils, and none
of these makes the engine run.

I even tested my friends Blaster 2, and one of mine in his car.
Works in his car, but not in mine.

I have new 8.5mm low resistance MSD spark wires.

Good grounding. Cables where they should be according to manual.

My newest Blaster 2:
* Coil+ ignition off = 0 Volts
* Coil+ ignition on = 12.35 Volts
* Battery ignition on = 12.60 Volts
* Coil+ cranking = 11 - 9.x Volts
* Coil+ "running" = 12.20 Volts

* Primary = 0,9 Ohms
* Secondary = 5490 Ohms

It starts but missing some cylinders, like timing is off.
Runs for 5 seconds and die. Out comes gas thru carb.

If i go back to my old no-name coil it runs perfectly.
(Timing Initial: 4 Mechanical 34.. Will set it better later.)
Why replace it? Obliviously something is wrong, and car could fail with old coil also.


When I remove wire from distributor cab and place it close to ground
with a bolt in it and crank, i get an okay, pulsing spark.
I get sparks without a helping bolt also.


MSD keeps focusing on the coil.
I'm starting to suspect the Ignition Module.
But it costs 134.97$
So before I test replacing this I turn to all of you for suggestions?

Thanks
 
#3 ·
I’m not sure if I have any ballast resistor wire. Not sure if 1967 Electra had any from start. I haven’t replaced any wire, but the seller claimed the wiring Is new, and looks fresh.


Would it be a bad idea to make a direct connection between battery and coil + just to test if makes any difference?

I have followed the MSD manual;
Orange to coil-
Key to coil+
Red to coil+
Ground to carb, but I have tested directly to battery with no improvement.
I have extra ground between head and battery.

Wouldn’t my old chromed no-name coil be affected by the ballast resistor wire also?
I get a strong spark from it and engine runs as it should.


MSD sells complete kit with this Blaster 2, 8.5mm wires and ready-to-run distributor so It should work.
 
#5 ·
It didn’t help to connect battery+ to coil+
Also tested battery charger+ to coil+

So, three blaster 2 coils = engine starts but sounds like wrong timing, struggling at low rpm and dies a few second later.
My old coil = engine runs as it should at home, haven’t tested out on the streets.
 
#7 ·
In a stock engine GM harness, the resister wire is the length of wire from the coil + to the firewall bulkhead plug....not sure if your aftermarket harness is the same.

Year One has a pre-made replacement wire, with the factory style Packard terminal to plug into the firewall bulkhead plug....it is intended for HEI conversions that need a 12 gauge non-resistor wire to the HEI 12v+ terminal and has the HEI style plug on the end....you can easily remove and replace that plug to fit your set-up.

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1962-74-Nova/L00510
 
#8 ·
Yeah. I studied the wiring diagram and one guide so I understand the function.
Been looking for Packard 56 terminals and a crimper tool. Wondering if the #35051 “Deutsch connector crimp jaws” could work for my new expensive MSD crimper I bought to the spark wires.



I’m worried that the YearOne wire is too short.
They have for Buick Skylark also, but it’s a shorter car than ’67 Electra.
But I could email them and ask.


Thanks! :)