dont know if my settings are right haven't gotten any replies

 

Thumper cams are more about bark than bite.

Whats your:
Rear gear ratio
Transmission 1st gear ratio
What heads

Whats your compression ratio? How do you know; just a guess, a fair assumption or do you have the math to back it up?

What intake manifold
What carb(s) do you have
What exhaust manifold/ headers
And most importantly; what do you want to do with your Tiger?
Awesome car by the way!

 

Something besides the cam is not right with your combination. At 347 cubes a 250° @ .050" duration Solid lifter cam should easily run up to 7500 rpm. Should horsepower peak at about 7000-7100 rpm....so there has to be something else giving up.

I would say either your valvesprings aren't good enough, your ignition is dropping out, or you have a fuel delivery problem.

It could also be that your cylinder head intake ports are just too small as well

Outline your fuel system, valvesprings, ignition system and exactly what heads you have for us.

I agree with AutoGear, that's a dang cool ride you have :thumbup:.

 

rear end gear ratio 373 first gear ratio dont know its a t-5 out 0f a 86 mustang gt pro comp heads 202 intake 160 ex 64cc combustion chambers 195 intake runners they were ported and polished compression is somewhere between 9and a half to 10 the intake is a professional products crosswind carb is a quick fuel 650 double pumper and full lenth headers i show it drive on weekends and take it to the track sometimes it runs mid 12s in the 1/4 i would like to get it into the 10s low 11s thanks

 

i had it dyn max trq was360.3 at 3500rpm max hp was 296.1 at 5400rpm at the rear wheels

 

Were the valvesprings from Comp Cams to match the cam...or what came on the ProComp heads??

What ignition system and what fuel system(Pump, filter, line size from tank to carb)??

That "Mucker Dump'r" cam you wondered about is a good bit smaller than the cam you already have, as far as rpm range is concerned.

 

im running the msd e-curve pro-billet distributor accel super stock coil a holley electric fuel pump the filter is one a glass one from advance auto parts valve springs was the ones that came wit the heads im also replacing them along with the valves

 

Twice ericnova mentioned valve springs and both times you ignored it. I think part, if not all of, your problem is springs not matched to the cam or worn out weak. So, what valve springs are you running?

Bill

 

the valve springs that came on the heads they were supposed to be good up 600 lift i only have about 3,000 miles on them but im also replacing them and valves also

 

the valve springs are the ones that came on the heads they are supposed to be good up to 600 lift there are only abou 3.000 miles on them but im replacing them and the valves when i put the new cam in

the carb in this picture isn't the one im running im running a 650 quick fuel double pumper

 

im replacing the valves because i had a keeper come off of one and the piston hit the valve and bent it the machine shop said they wasn't very good valves so i decided to replace them all instead of just the bent one

 

the exhaust is pretty much a straight shot hardly any bends

 

i have a 750 holley double pumper than i can try after i get it back together

 

i put timing gears in it didn't use a chain i still want to change it to hydraulic roller its a real pain to keep a just the solid lifters have to take a lot of stuff off to get the valve covers off

 

Set up with good parts you won't need to adjust a solid but once or twice a year......cheap springs, studs, pushrods, rockers, poly locks and you'll be doing it a lot.....but the hydro roller will need almost as much attention if the parts I just mentioned are cheap.

Hydro roller won't make the power or the rpm unless you buy mucho expensive limited plunger travel roller lifters to go on it.

 

"Good to .600" lift" tells almost absolutely nothing about what the valvespring is capable of. Being as they are ProComp springs I would be willing to bet that is a good part of your problem - they may be good for the lift you have but do not have enough pressure to keep the valvetrain under control on the fast valve opening ramps of that fairly stout Solid Lifter cam.

. The fact that you mentioned a bad keeper may be the keepers fault....or it may have been the weak valvespringsa fault in that the piston hit the out of control valve and made the keepers "jump", causing one to fail.

That mickey mouse fuel filter you have from Advance Auto is a huge restriction, about the worst flowing filter on the planet, not to mention the risk of fire if that glass case breaks....I had a friend have it happen, almost cost him a nice '67 Fairlane 500.
Get that death by fire hazard off there pronto.

I would be willing to bet between the valvesprings and the fuel filter those two things are your entire problem.....right now the filter is leading slow race by a couple car lengths but the springs are hot on its heels.

You've got too nice a car to let these issues remain.

You can get a great deal on valvetrain packages from Competition Products, their head completion kits for Dart/RHS/similar aftermarket heads would be just what you need.

www.competitionproducts.com

 

i found this on hot rod network look it up and let me know what you think Testing Three Cams on a 347 Ford - Camshaft Three-Way
Two of COMP Cams’ most popular SBF camshafts are PN 35-518-8 and PN 35-522-8. Both are Xtreme Energy grinds, the former measuring in at 224/232 degrees of duration at .050, and the latter with 232/240 degrees at .050. The wild card of the bunch was the 227/241-at-.050 Thumpr, which proved to be the best all-around performer in our 347. All three grinds idled well at 900 rpm, with the Thumpr providing a noticeably choppier disposition.

Based on specs alone, Cam B would seem to have the advantage on paper since it packs the most duration and lift, but that’s not how things played out on the dyno. Cam A was good for 437 hp at 6,000 rpm, and 409 lb-ft of torque at 4,900 rpm. As expected, Cam B improved upon those figures dramatically, kicking out 464 hp at 6,200 rpm and 426 lb-ft of torque at 5,100 rpm. Longer-duration cams typically sacrifice low-end torque for top end power, and predictably, Cam A held an advantage of 5 to 10 lb-ft of torque from 3,600 to 4,200 rpm. After that point, Cam B pulls ahead big time, holding a 15-25hp advantage throughout the rest of the power curve.

While the SAM crew slid Cam C into the block, since its duration specs fell in between Cams A and B, we expected horsepower output to fall somewhere in the middle as well. Boy, were we wrong. Cam C proved to be the most potent of them all despite giving up 5 degrees of intake duration to Cam B, and .034- and .059-inch of lift on the intake and exhaust valves, respectively. In fact, the Thumpr produced more torque down low than the smallest cam in the test, in addition to posting the highest peak output of 466 hp at 6,300 rpm. Peak output aside, the Thumpr trounced the 232/240-at-.050 grind by a large margin in the area-under-the-curve department, holding a 10-15 hp advantage throughout the majority of the power curve. The Thumpr proved to be the most rev-happy as well, pulling hard to 6,600 rpm, while Cam B was out of breath by 6,200 rpm.

Post Dyno Analysishttp://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1110phr-testing-three-cams-on-a-347-ford

 

Hcompton you asked how often i need to a just them I adjusted them 2 times within the first 1,500 miles i have 2,500 to 3,000 miles on the motor now never made any noise like it had any loose rockers but like i said about a month ago i took it to town stoped put some gas in it started it up heard a lifter ticking was about 8 miles from was ticking pretty bad when i got home i pulled the valve cover seen a broken valve on a exhaust valve pulled the rocker arm off tried to twist the valve couldn't sign of a bent valve so i pulled the head off sure enough valve was bent i assume the keeper came off caused all the problem

 

and to ajust the valves i have to take the inner finder supports alternator and bracket off to pull the valve covers then i have to pull the radiator out so i can get to the crank so i can turn it over by hand not no fun that's why i want to do away with the solid lifters just want to put hydraulic lifters in and not have to worry about adjusting them and i think roller is the way to go with hydraulic lifters

 

what size are the header primary pipes? You might be getting spark scatter from the gear drive. Take it apart,remove the gear drive,unless its a very expensive and extremely good system? As our friend Richard would always post."toss it over the fence"!
go back tro your other thread to talk about cam choice,,,
Make sure you have 5 pounds of fuel pressure at idle and 6500 rpm?
If that is a glass fuel filter,the techs wont allow the car on the track?
3.73:1 gears in the small of car?
what size and type of race tires do you use.
Car should be an 11 second 1/4 in road race trim and tune

 

no cant turn from trans side would have to pull the starter out pain to do that with the headers on stud girdles no i don't there isn't any room for them barley any room for the roller rockers had to cut the baffle plate out to clear them cant put taller covers no room for them

 

header primary pipes are 1and half inch mickey Thomson ET street radial 205/50/15 23.2 inch high 7.6 inch wide highest tire i can put on it widest i can find in that height you think 373:1 rear gears are to high? what would you recommend stock gears were 288:1 car weighs right around 2,000 pounds

 

with 3.73 gears the car has a top speed of 115 ish. Thats not enough mph for a 10 second car,you need 125 ish.. With 1.5' Tube headers Im surprised the car goes mid 12s
I see you car as making just over 300 hp?

we have a lot to do on this project? You will need to make room for headers?
wheres the dyno sheets for the other thread.

 

When you buy a head and it says its good to .600 lift, it means nothing other than you have the physical clearance to reach that lift without coil bind.

What you need to know is what the installed height is. Once you know the installed height you can begin looking for a spring that matches your camshaft. A ball park idea of a HR cam with .600 lift is going to probably need something around 135-145 lbs closed and 350-400 lbs open.



Ben Millermon

 

i have headers

 

i have headers View attachment 265449

Just an observation of something noticed in this picture....

Did you do any confirmation of rocker arm geometry to determine the correct pushrod length??

Reason I ask is that the rockers in this picture that are on valves that are fully closed look to be on much to extreme an angle....like the pushrods are way too short. Just off the fact you have the ProComp heads with I believe +.100" longer valves they should have used a +.100" longer pushrod at a minimum, and possibly another .050" beyond that. No way to tell for sure from here, but you should check this if you haven't already.

This could easily lead to a valvetrain that gives up at too low an rpm.

1-5/8" header is fine for your use, and either the 650 or 750 carb will work, the 750 will make the most power.....but neither carb nor the exhaust is what is limiting you to 5600 rpm power, and neither is the current cam.....something else is an issue....fuel system, ignition, or valvetrain.

Going to a hydro roller for ease of maintenance is fine, but just a cam change isn't going to fix the problem of the engine laying over on power at 55-5600 rpm. Something else is WRONG, just a cam change won't fix a thing.

People are trying to help you, but you seem fixated on the cam swap being the fix....

 

and if you have headers with 1 .5 inch primaries then you have headers that are way too small.
My primary pipes are 1 7/8 for the first 18" then step up to 2" for the next 18" into a long 3" collector. You have a lot of problems to deal with. The potato in the exhaust system is serious