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Thanks for fixing

 

If yours is TP then it probably has the steering box under the floor , if so , placing a 3rd pedal is tight . If you put the steering box on top of the frame rail in front of the firewall , CCR style , then there's room for a 3rd pedal . Its very simple mechanical linkage. If you line rowing the gears like I do , its well worth the effort , I've put 50k miles on mine in the last 20 years , power shifting 2nd gear @6000 rpm is particularly exhilarating 😉

 

It is a TP for I have the paper work from TP. It was sold in 1993 and lists a chassis number. I will pull the S box and see if I can mount on the frame forward the FW. It really would make life better for a stick.
Thanks for all advise.

 

Google California Custom Roadster & look at their steering box mount ,it looks simple & it is IF you know the compound angles of the mount pieces ...I've been messing with these little cars since 1968. I have some experience .

 

I am sure you do. in 1968 I was building a 34 ford 3 window. Got out of cars and into harleys until a bad accident got me off bikes. Now its too cold outside to work in shop.

 

My steering box is on top of the frame. I built a cowl cage within the cowl out of 1" square tubing and hung a set of hanging pedals off of that. Works well.

 

nice looking and professional work. your master cylinder is on the FW? What type of car are you building?

 

'27 T roadster. M/C is a '62 Chevy pickup unit. Dual master. One side feeds the brakes and the other feeds the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. You can see the master on the firewall. Pedals are Wilwood.

 

I was just looking at that type of MC on Summit . I would need to add the right swing unit to match up to the MC

 

No you wouldn't. From the factory, the right side operates the clutch and left the brakes. You simply have to swap the guts side to side. You can grind off the embossed clutch/brake if you want.





The only real difference in internals swap is the brake side has a residual valve and seal. Now granted, you'll have to mount a slave to operate the hydraulic clutch and the master is sized for 4-wheel drum brakes (not sure what to do about discs) but, I've got a couple thousand trouble free miles on the roadster and I'm pretty pleased with the setup.

You can acquire the master at Autozone for cheap..........

https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/master-cylinder-brake-system/remanufactured-master-cylinder-brake-system-m34404/42914_0_0

 

I went with the TH-350 in mine; a matter of choice. Plus, with my channeled body there is no room for a clutch pedal.

 

Ive had customers use the R-Jays stuff for a little while now. Rjays Speed Shop - Firewall Brake Pedals, Hot Rod Brake Pedals | Rjays Speed Shop

My euro/aussie customers have also used some floor mount "pedal boxes" before.

It can be done. I think Ted Brown built a handful of stick buckets

 

Good info....I had disc on my 34 coupe back in the late 60's. I took them off a 65 AMC ambassador, made them fit the 34 stock spindles. I had a small MC on the FW so drums rear and disc front with no proportioning valve and they worked real good for a 2500 lb. car. I would say with disc on the bucket would not be a problem.
Cheers

 

I'm quite well aware its a matter of individual! choice , I feel its a bit silly to design & build a car without a dual master cylinder , they've been used for 60 years for a reason , safety !
There is plenty of room in a T body. ,channeled or not , for three pedals .I know mines not the only one . Again IMO , hydraulic slave cylinders are fine on a dump truck , hydraulic throw out bearings have gained notoriety for leaking , among other things . Mechanical linkage is simple. , straightforward , positive & virtually bulletproof .

 

I am not hep to the 5 speed style of trans. the clutch arm comes out the right side (pass) yet there is an opening on the left side. I would suspect that the trans is a camaro or s-10 type of chevy trans. I know that it is not a NV 3500. Due to the cold here in N. Idaho I have been staying out of the shop. Next week will be warmer temps.
I will have better lookie after I take off the tub. I will post some more pics when I do that.

Thanks to all for your advise and help

 

Totally agree with having a dual master cylinder. But if the pedals a firewall mounted so much easier to have a hydraulic clutch with a slave cylinder IMHO, I would never have one of those hydraulic throw out bearings.

 

The late 80's early 90's mustangs used a cable that would work well on that right side release ..

 

We have the turbo 350 in ours... really don’t want to be shifting gears....

 

View attachment 614562

 

Here is a thought for a gas tank

 

I think that an auto trans will be better for me. My buddy told me he will give me a 350 so that will be the way I will go.
Thanks to all who advised me on the project. I already have the new brake master that came with the car. I will still move the steering. I might put the 5 speed into the 35 Buick for it has all the room for a stick. I also have a 700r4 rebuilt for the Buick if I go with an auto in that car. It is a 4dor sedan. I still have mucho work to do on that car.......only if I live that long

 

The gas tank is under the seat riser. Maybe 10 gallons?? Need to remove and measure to be sure

 

Picked up a th 350 today. I will start the clean-up and tear down for rebuild next week. Getting ready to dyno the 455 olds jet boat engine during the same time.
Thanks again to all who helped