Have used both, both did well. All these products are urethane resins that cure in the presence of moisture and have an affinity for iron oxide. Use either with confidence.

 

To Willys 36

Thanks for the info! d&c

 

I got the best deal on the Eastwoods version of POR-15.

Some POR-15 fades to gray when exposed to sunlight.

I painted a large utility trailer with POR-15.

I was going to spray it, but found that it works best if you brush it on.

It took two or three coats to achieve coverage.

 

POR 15 does not have UV inhibitors and cannot be left exposed or used as a topcoat (clearly stated on the product and MSDS sheets)

POR15 can be sprayed with a gun, but requires PO15 brand thinner to be sprayable.


Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator product does have UV inhibitors and can be left exposed or used as a topcoat.

Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator can be reduced for spraying with any good grade lacquer thinner as well.

I've not used Zero Rust yet, I've used both POR15 and Eastwoods products and am partial to Eastwood because of the UV protectant and the ability to use lacquer thinner I already have on hand.

 

It is true that you can spray POR-15 in a gun.

There have been reported incidents resulting in death where a hobbiest sprayed POR 15 without adequate ventilation. POR is far worse than paint. Read the MSDS and read the can.

I do not recommend spraying it, but if you must... do not use your best gun or pot.

It takes a lot of that special POR brand thinner to clean your system out.

The trailer was a good place to lay down leftover paint, so I do not have any regrets in using POR-15 on it, regardless of the fading.

It has not rusted.

 

you can also spay a top coat over por-15 if you use thier intermideate primer but it must be done before the por-15 completely cures or the top coat will not get good adheshion and will at some point start peeling off.

once the intermedate primer is on and cured you can use any top coat you want.

used it under the hood on my charger
- 1 coat por-15
- 1 coat por-15 intermedate primer
-1 coat 2k primer
-3 coat 1950 chrysler goss black urethane

worked good for me nice and glossy and no worry of the surface rust coming back through or fadeing

 

I can't vouch for POR15 spraying - I've only brushed it on..

But Eastwoods product thins with lacquer thinner and I haven't had any issues spraying or cleaning my gun...but I have dedicated primer guns I use.

And even if Eastwoods stuff is lacuer based/thinable ~ I wear respirators religiously no matter what I'm spraying!

 

why not just use epoxy

 

why not just use epoxy

I have been reading this and wondering the same thing? Those test panels I have mentioned before are still holding up just fine and so far the epoxy is showing no signs of the rust coming though and it is nowhere near as much hassle as POR and the like. Fellows try it yourself take a panel with surface rust and maybe some minor pitting and coat it with epoxy then toss it out in the weather, you may be surprised! I am NOT saying it is ok to leave rust and spray it with epoxy but the epoxy sure seems to block rusting as good as or better than anything else and it is much easier to work with.

 

I like the chemistry of the urethane rust converters. They actually do tie up the iron oxide and stop the oxidation. For those of us who must do it the old way and can't afford the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ body boiling or soda blast, these new chemicals are a god-send. Epoxy of course is mandatory as a first coat on bare metal and sealer coat under the color in a good paint job but the rust converters are cheap insurance underneath the great epoxy coats. We are light years ahead of the old days when we wire-brushed, sanded, scraped, ground, sprayed on a couple coats of lacquer primer and lacquer gloss and hoped and prayed the rust wouldn't bubble underneath before a year or so.

 

I have sprayed POR15 several times with a cheap-o Harbor Freight pressure pot. You don't need to thin it much with the pressure pot,(I was using a small laquer tip on my gun, so I used about 5% of the POR15 solvent) .


Coverage with the spray was really good, it only took one coat to cover and then I used the Por15 chassiscoat black to get the UV protection. It laid out WAY better than if I would have brushed it on. It only took me about 2 hours total to paint the entire underside of a Chrysler Imperial, along with every suspension part that went with it. With a brush it would have taken me decades to do all that.

Yes wear a GOOD respirator and lots of ventilation. Watch the overspray, that stuff goes goes everywhere, and sticks to everything. I found that my shop swamp cooler made a really good filter unit.

I had no problem cleaning the gun, 3 washes with acetone and it is just fine. ( I've had the same pressure pot and gun for 19 years, I use it for just about everything, from spraying gelcoat and polyester primer, to spraying varnish on furniture.)You have no idea how much easier it is to spray the underside of a car or a motorcycle frame with a pressure pot than a suction gun, the ability to turn the gun upside down while spraying makes things much easier.


The only experience that I had with epoxy was bad, but I'm sure it was something I did. :spank:


Later, mikey

 

why not just use epoxy

I'm getting close to being ready to prime my bare-metal truck with epoxy filler-type primer (after all the Rage filler work is done). Been reading up on a few options; Sherwin Williams, Queeg's, etc. Whose product do you recommend? Having a hard time finding an SpI source around my area.

Thanks in advance.

Antny

 

epoxy first , then do your filler work.

 

Red and Shine.... You guys will never convince these guys against using the "rust coverers". If they would only understand that the same amount of work required to use epoxy is needed to use those "coverers", maybe they would understand.

Aaron

 

KNo hop, Weire tu DEnsse!!

 

Red and Shine.... You guys will never convince these guys against using the "rust coverers". If they would only understand that the same amount of work required to use epoxy is needed to use those "coverers", maybe they would understand.

Aaron

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Thats ok, it will just be something else we add to the list on a weekly basis.

http://spi.forumup.org/viewtopic.php?t=2379&mforum=spi

 

i don't think i have ever seen a professional painter recommend this stuff. maybe i'm wrong but just don't remember. personally i don't know anyone in the business that uses rust encapsulaters .

 

I can name several in the buisness that use POR and similar products

There are several professional body men in my area that use POR and similar (cheaper) products.

There are many who use baked on ceramic finishes on parts and assemblies as well.

If you care to read magazines, you will read about top name professional auto restorers and body men using these products.

You will get a host of opinions on weather you need to use them or not from many people online and in these same magazines.

I can not see painting an entire vehicle with POR-15, but I suppose if you wanted to, you can.

I have used it on critical areas that are likely to rust on my MG's and Austin Healey. Most of these areas are out of site and out of mind.

I can not see giving someone negative feedback for trying these products.

Epoxy primers may be the newest solution now, but in the future they will probably be looked at the same way that Lacquer is here and now.

There is no telling what the future holds.

 

i don't think i have ever seen a professional painter recommend this stuff. maybe i'm wrong but just don't remember. personally i don't know anyone in the business that uses rust encapsulaters .

What does that mean? -- If a 'professional' doesn't use it then it can't be any good, or, it can only be a good product if it is used by 'professionals' ?
Having seen some 'professionals' work I wouldn't use that particular association to dismiss or recommend a product.

Personally I would not use it and agree with your way of using epoxy first but it seems this product has a lot of satisfied customers.

 

I suppose it was a condescending comment designed to get your attention and start a flame war.

Regardless, it is pointless.

A smart shop or body man sprays or uses whatever the customer is willing to pay for.

If a customer pays for POR-15, I would charge them to put it on.

 

I've done a couple of things with POR15 for customers that you could never do with an epoxy primer...and it was much faster , the cost was much less and it was profitable to do, where as the alternative, (cut out the rusty stuff, weld in a patch panel and pretend it was a new car again), would never have gotten done due to the cost.


And the POR15 has withstood the test of time in those applications...it's been over 10 years for a floor pan reinforcement that I did with POR15 and some fiberglass, and the stuff is still stuck, and without it the floor would have been gone by now. My customer did not want a floor pan replacement, the cost was more than he wanted to pay, and had I chose to not do it , I would have made nothing on that part of the job.

I'm glad that I am not a professional painter, because it gives me many more choices in materials I can use.


Our local automotive paint store has started carrying POR15 products...The owner told me that it was because of the demand by customers.


Later, mikey

 

KNo hop, Weire tu DEnsse!!

I ran that through several languages on an online translator before I got it.... (it really needed spellcheck )

I'm happy to be a lost cause... :drool:


Later, mikey

 

I ran that through several languages on an online translator before I got it.... (it really needed spellcheck )

I'm happy to be a lost cause... :drool:


Later, mikey

Translation - "No hope, we're too dense!"

My point w/ high recommendation of these products is based primarily on us being amateurs. For many of us we are only going to do a major ground-up build on one car in our lives. We are DIY specifically for the adventure of the experience. We can't afford the very expensive pro services like body boiling or soda blasting ( just a few of those pro-help things will push a build toward $6-figures) and, again, we want to DIY. After wire brushing, scraping, and sanding there is still likely the potential for new rust lurking on our sheet metal. These rust converters really work. Epoxy primers really work. By using them in tandem we achieve professional metal preparation results at a bargain price and DIY. Of course professionals have worked out their custom solutions that may or may not use converters. Great. However, for the novice there is nothing worse than spending ++2 years of hard earned spare time creating a masterpiece just to have those nasty little pimples start popping up in your paint job.

 

willy36 brings up some good points that may have gone over looked. the novice and his budget.
i think that yes we can all agree about how repairs should be done and are thankful for the experts on here that put up with our Constance questions.
but maybe the question should be for those on a budget and limited skills , will these products help stop their project from rusting into the ground at least for awhile ?
hey if i had that option i would be happy to load my project up and ship it to a shop for a professional build." still waiting on chip foose to knock on my door "
how ever that is just not an option. iam working with a very low budget and doing the work myself. now some of the professionals might say if you can't do it right don't bother.well i guess thats an option too just not a good one.
so iam going to do my project as best i can on my limited budget. it won't win a riddler award but it will look cool at the local cruise in and any parts that rust and fall off just make it liter. lol

 

i can only speak from 40 years of experience in the custom automotive refinishing business. i do it for a living every day. sorry but i don't read those magazines or watch the ridiculous tv shows. your welcome to use whatever you like but just because you have done it a couple of times in no reason to be recommending it. i post to help those guys trying to find out how to do it right, not how to do it cheap. budget is no excuse for using inferior products or cutting corners.