From what I have seen about pulling off the balancer could you not make a disc at least 3/8th thick slightly smaller than the crank to sit inside balancer for the puller to push against rather than the crank threads

 

While damper pullers have a foot that is supposed to seat on the crank end face, I don't trust the alignment to protect the inner threads of the crank so I always screw the bolt less its washer in to seat the puller on its head to insure the threads are protected. I, also, had made several diameters of quarter inch thick aluminum slugs that can be placed over the crank end to protect those inside threads. These are nice but always a pain to find as their convenient for so many other things they constantly are lost to other projects.

For damper installation the crank end threads are plenty strong enough to anchor the install tool to pull the damper onto the crank snout. I always clean and lubricate these threads to insure a good deep bite for the tool's stud.

Bogie

 

You remove all the bolts. I leave the pulley attached to the ballancer if possible.

Shoot some penetrating lubrication agains the crank and balancer.

You use a 3 jaw puller meant for the balancer diameter.

The center pushes against the crank where the balancer bolt was.

If you find it is binding a few taps to the side of the pulley(after reinstallating and leaving on) with a rubber hammer or block of wood will shock it enough to start it moving.

 

I thought about making a solid rod smaller than the 7/16 thread, maybe 5 to 8 inches long, and using that instead of the threads for leverage.

 

I picked up a 7/16-20 threaded rod, had to buy a 3ft length, but I can cut it to whatever I want. So is the general consensus that if you’re careful, and pay close attention, using the threads shouldn’t cause a problem?

 

A damper puller is available at any parts house for $20.
Use it.
Cerials idea is terrible. That a good way to destroy one by pulling the outer hub off.

As far install, it’s available for purchase too for $15.
I personally have a proper sized bolt and grind the head flat. Then drill a divot in the head at the center to help with keeping the mandrel from sliding and coming off.

 

Yes I screwed up. Been playing with to many LS engines.

Use the puller that uses the bolts that go into the balancer.

Tapping the side with a rubber mallet or piece of wood does help get it moving if it is rusted in place to avoid stripping the pullers threads.

 

I have always done what Boogie does. Take the washer off of the dampner bolt and screw it back into the crank, the bolt head will pass through the center of the dampner. Then just use a common steering wheel puller bolted to the pulley bolt holes in the dampner.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

 

I wish I had a photo on this for better explanation; I've used the bolt method before, and that was the way I used to do it until I had one that was severely stuck fast, and had to re-chase the threads. I now just use an old 1/2 drive socket, small enough diameter to fit.

The puller you need looks like a ducks foot and allows to pull with 2 bolts or 3. Use it with three bolts, make sure everything is level... parallel and perpendicular, and everything should come off smooth. I use an old scrap 1/2 drive socket, i think, 15/16 or 7/8 or something like that. The puller kit usually comes with 2 feet, a flat one and one that is conical and comes to a point. Put the socket against the snout so the 1/2 square is facing you, put the point of the foot of the puller into the square opening and everything will self align as you start turning the main pressure bolt.

On the balancer don't torque the 3 attachment bolts in. You just need 3/8 to 1/2 inch of thread in for most situations, lubricate these threads. If the balancer has blind holes, just bottom out the attachment bolts and back off about 1/8th turn, just so its finger tight. Use light cutting oil, wd40, pb blaster, whatever..., and some times, you might have use a little heat.

When installing, use the installer. It threads into the crank snout and will press the the new balancer on. Do not beat it on with a hammer.

Intaller... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Prof...- Shopping (CSE) (Bing)&utm_term=1100309961321&utm_content=Proform (July12_2017)

Puller Examples.... https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...tm_term=4577129468559793&utm_content=Speedway Success Skus from Bing (Mar5_2019)


https://www.eastwood.com/rockwood-4...-balancer-puller.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&msclkid=f47c37f4e317169d76956a1849fe5943

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/W89...- NB Top Sellers&utm_term=4579122334898379&utm_content=Garage, Tools & Hardware

 

I have the balancer puller/installer from autozone. It's the $75 one, not the $25 piece of junk.


Looks like a big disc, I put the stud in, put the arbor on, then bolt the disc to the balancer, and start turning with a big wrench, works just fine, and will pull or push a super tight balancer on without issue.


I put assembly lube or grease on the snout when I install the balancer, helps greatly if it ever needs to come off.

 

Sounds like you got one of the better ones.

 

A wise man will buy the tool and do this the right way. Can it be cobbled sure, if the cobbler has done it over and over.

Someone not ever attempting this, and not knowing the short falls that could be encountered. Is ahead of the game having the tool. where as cheeping out could be a high $$$ disaster.

All this jacking around with steering wheel pullers, leaves out the part about, whether or not a motor is removed on a stand, or radiator out.

$$$ spent on the tool is really cheap insurance, go buy the tool.. torque too 60 lbs when reinstalled

Get er done,
Pep

 

Great input, thanks.

I thought I already had the necessary tools, but it turns out the 3-prong puller I have, won’t accept the hub bolts because the 3 slots (spaced 120 degs apart) are too small. So either I open them up, or look for another one. This crap never ends, does it

 

I have gotten the pullers from the auto stores that are around $20 bucks or so and there is nothing that threads into the crank when pulling the balancer off as I use the puller piece and the three bolts go through it and into the balancer and there is a brass type bushing that is like a coned shape or there is a circular fitting with a skinny straight end sticking out that goes inside the crank but does not touch the threads and the circular part lays flat up against the crankshaft and you just slowly pull on the puller and it pops the balancer right off.

When using the installer tools that are available I never tighten the piece that threads into the crank all the way tight then back it out one full turn and very carefully make sure to hold it where it is at with a wrench and use my other wrench turning the installer and getting the balancer to go on. I bought and use the one below for my builds and its a good quality one vs some of the more cheaper ones.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...tm_term=4577129468559793&utm_content=Speedway Success Skus from Bing (Mar5_2019

 

By hub bolts, I mean the three that attach the damper to the hub. I’ll need to get longer ones anyway!!!

 

The Auto parts stores have free loaner kits that include the puller + installer + bolts you will need. You give them a deposit.

 

https://www.competitionproducts.com...roducts.com/Proform-Damper-Installation-Tool/productinfo/PFM66515/#.Xe7jjXt7mMo


This one works well.

 

Had to make one once about 10 years ago from grade grade 8 harware, at 2am on a Friday night using a 7" mini lathe. It sucked, it was slow and chattered badly but it got done and I'm still using it to this day.

 

I have the same brand installer and remover, I've done both works great

 

Pulling the harmonic balancer

O’reily auto parts has the puller for removal and installation for rent. That’s your best bet.

 

I have a funny story about this...

On a Mopar forum here in Australia a bloke was having trouble. The Hemi 6 balancer has three holes which are 5/16 UNC, so he's got some bolts that size and screwed on a puller and then didn't do something right and broke off the bolts. Very easily done.

A little while later he was back on the forum, maybe it was a week, and he's telling us that somehow or other one of his engines has gone from being totally free to turn to absolutely locked up in that short time.

Finally someone twigged... "Those bolts you put into the balancer, have they gone into the timing cover?"

Silence...

 

Autozone, Oriely's, Pepboys and some Napa stores rent the tools for no cost. Just leave a deposit to cover the cost of the tool and they refund it when it's returned.

 

There are days and then there are "those days"!!