I don't see any way but to sand out the runs and orange peel. make a smooooth surface and re shoot it with a nice even coat of primer :welcome:
It's the prep work that counts :mwink:
imp:

 

I'm wet sanding it with 320 and it's coming out good. Once I finish with the 320, I'll go over it again with 600 and then 1000.

 

Once I finish with the 320, I'll go over it again with 600 and then 1000.

I'm just a novice painter so won't hazard an opinion. But perhaps some of the pro painters will chime in to discuss the pros and cons of taking the epoxy down to 600 or 1000 and the potential for adhesion problems.

 

I'm just a novice painter so won't hazard an opinion. But perhaps some of the pro painters will chime in to discuss the pros and cons of taking the epoxy down to 600 or 1000 and the potential for adhesion problems.

Initially, It came out with runs and orange peel on it so I had to sand it down. I was using a 1.0mm nozzle. I now have the recommended 1.6mm nozzle to use. After I finish that, I'll scuff it and put another coat onto it just like the sheet says.

 

...I was using a 1.0mm nozzle. I now have the recommended 1.6mm nozzle to use.

Again just another novice question on my part. Won't the 1.6 tip be even more prone to runs and sags than the 1.0 tip?

 

I am not a pro painter by any definition, and I am going to guess I am probably the least experienced person who held a spray gun, who is going to respond to this post.
Orange peel tells me the paint is too dry, and did not flow out.
Runs tell me the paint is too wet, and flowed off.
I believe the major problem is with your consistancy. With me, by far my greatest problem is consistancy with gun techniques. Is the gun perpendicular to the surface? Is the the gun the same distance to the surface, throughout the entire stroke? Is the overlap the same on each stroke? Is the gun speed the same on each stroke?
Is the paint the same visiosity each time? Is the temperature the same? Do you allow the same time for each coat to flash off, in different areas?
Notice I have not even mentioned tip sizes, air pressure, and many other variables.
Take careful notes of everything you can the next time you paint. Try to see what changes you do causes what effect. Try to be really consistant, and you should get much better results.
Trust me, I have done more than one paint application that has orange peel and runs on the same piece. It is part of the learning process. Take pride you are learning to do this yourself, and not just buying a paint job. Want to have some fun, try painting spoked wheels sometime.

 

Part of my problem wasthat I could not move around the piece freely and the gun stopped moving. One time I almost fell to the ground I've remedied that situation. The 1.6 will allow more paint to go though the gun making it wetter.

 

If you have enought primer just sand

Part of my problem wasthat I could not move around the piece freely and the gun stopped moving. One time I almost fell to the ground I've remedied that situation. The 1.6 will allow more paint to go though the gun making it wetter.

If you layed enough primer down that you can take out the runs and make it nice and smooth, then you don't have to respray primer. If you think that you can see metal through a thin spot of primer then I would go through the trouble of re-primering.

If you are using a reduced PPG primer as a sealer and your can see a little metal, no big deal. Continue with the sealer and paint.

There are two types of papers out there that are used on primers. Stearated (dry lubricant-looks and feels like baby powder) and non-stearated sandpaper. Typically non-stearated paper is used to sand with water. Stearated paper does not need water.

I work with a lot of OEM car plants that they repair primer using a 500grit dry or a 600 grit wet.

 

I've been sanding it and it's getting real smooth. The primer is getting real thin but I'm not worried. Once I get it to were I want it, I'll shoot it again. I'm taking my time becasue I want it to come out right.

 

runs and orange peel on epoxy primer

hey, coodeville. The bigger fluid tip of the gun, the more orange peel! Spraying a heavier coat will tend to flow out better, but drying times and film thickness are increased, as are the chances of runs. Epoxy is slow to sand, and will need to be re-sealed to hide the scratches. Use the smaller-tipped gun with maybe a little more pressure, and spray the sealer a little lighter.

 

Coodevile, if you're getting orange peel turn down the fluid a little bit. With the 1.6 tip and a clear pathway you might be able to maintain a more consistent pace around it and avoid the runs and orange peel. Sounds like you might have remedied the causes of the initial problems. With the 1.6 tip, you won't be making multiple passes to achieve coverage so the material should lay out and flow better. Use a test panel and Brian Martin or Barry K's tips on spray technique. Brian is MartinSr and the tips are on Autobody101 and BarryK is on Southern Polyurethanes website. Both men have excellent tips on gun setup.

 

From the SPI website:

"A simple formula to remember is orange peel is fluid adjustment and run control is an air pressure adjustment. "

And I agree, the Fluid Tip is probably too big-I think it should be in the 1.3-1.4 range, I believe-

 

Initially when I sprayed the epoy primer, I used the 1.0 mm that came with the gun. ( I'm using the Eastwood HVLP unit). The sheet says to use at least a 1.3 and no more than a 1.8mm. Next time around I'm goingto use the 1.4mm that is avaialble for this gun. I'll let you know how it comes out.