[kenseth17]

Yes, you could very likely get lifting where you cut through, even more likely if an unactivated base was used.
You will need to spray more base and blend it in, over the area you cut through, sanding into the base is going to affect the look of that spot if you just cleared over it and didn't shoot more base, and a metallic definately.
When you shoot the new base, the solvents are going to want get under that edge thats been cut through and lift it around the sand through area.
Since you will have to shoot more color, the best thing to do would to shoot some epoxy primer to seal up that area and let sit overnight. You wouldn't have to sand it if you shot the next day and it smooth enough, but you can, I wetsand it a little to knock it smooth.
If you don't shoot epoxy on and just shoot base, and it lifts, then you have to sand the lifting out, and keep shooting dry coats till you have built up enough of a barrier. Once you get the base to stop lifting and on, the area won't lift when clearing (least hasn't for me), so shoot good wet coats.
Not really a big deal to blend in a little base once you know how. I find just shooting cut throughs areas with a little epoxy most often saves a lot of time in the long run then screwing around trying to get base on, and having to shoot it dry, which isn't really the greatest thing either. Another problem shooting a base dry with a metallic is it can lighten the color. So once you got the barrier built up, so you may have to shoot normal to get a good matching blend.

 

[milo]

oh damn ain:

 

[milo]

I feel sad & disappointed I didn't fight harder back there to avert this exact situation..

I think you got some real bad advice especially after explaining your relatively new to the game..

True it sounds like re-baseing is in this projects future.

I needed to find this thread for you to consider before using primer on your sand through...

Please check this thread about fixing a problem when uncertain it is gonna lift or not..
--> http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/wait-err-theres-fly-my-paint-150462.html

Where is the sand through? Hopefully it's on the thin "trim" body line...
.................................................................................

Looking at the beautiful picture that shows how nice the and even the blue went on clues me to imagine the painter does know how to paint and more than likely put the clear on just as even...

Why not try to polish say the roof panel with the clear that is there and see what it looks like, .. coudn't hurt

 

[drchip]

This may be a really stupid question, but I have some acrylic urethane of this color that was used on the dash. Would using that instead of base be any less likely to lift?
Also is there danger of the rest of the remaining clear being too thin or just the sand through area? The problem is on the trimline below the rear window. I'll post a pic after my wife gets up.

 

[drchip]

I hit a door edge also.

 

[milo]

yes,, the dash paint could be made to work...
Can you hold a piece of the dash near an unsanded fender and see if it's a close match?
Please take 2 pictures...one of them straight on with them looking their best and one with one panel angled to show the "flop" or maximum difference.
Both probs/fixes look like they colud be repaired as in the link I posted above.

Did you read the linked thread?

Don't paint anything until the rest is sorted out in case there are more...

Read this one and it's links too--> http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=4184

The thing with sanding is if you change the sand stroke direction in the same place to often it cuts more where it stops and goes the other way. All to often while focusing on one place it cuts deeper in two plces nearby on either side
hence what we have here...

Do not be discouraged as this thread will help many others and they are really what we're here for.

 

[drchip]

The dash is in the car but when my friend removed the masking tape from the dash it pulled some paint. So he took it upon himself (I wasn't there) to"fix" it with the base/clear. As you can see its not a great match, but if the urethane resulted in less problems I would not be against using it as the location of the boo boo - I think - would help hide it. Just dont know which is the lesser of 2 evils.

 

[milo]

open the can of paint you have and dab a drop onto the other paint under the wheel opening where it won't show later kinda smear the drop then take a pic while its wet and another pic after it's dry

 

[drchip]

I cant get a picture to show the color realistically but hopefully this will show good enough.

 

[V8&4spd]

You are only 1 step away from learning to paint yourself. You already sanded through the clear in a few spots. Make sure you have enough base coat and do the whole car over again. Dont worry about it now. Sand the whole car down and put another coat of base coat on and then spray the clear.

 

[V8&4spd]

You can practice on the dash. Don't be afraid to spray the metalic base coat. Spray it and make sure it flashes before you put on any clear. It should look like a flat finish before the clear goes on.

 

[milo]

ahhh , that color match is good .. very good...you can see the "flop" as it's called meaning darker at one angle and lighter at another or as we see in the wet/dry pictures...

**Another thing we now see is the tape line telling us the clear is not "wasted" in the wheel wells ...nice the painter was thinking...it is also our first view of how thick the clear is with the contrast where the tape line is...there is/was enough clear to polish...

Take a break from sanding and thinking for a sec...

Don't sand where a buffer can't buff..

A question now is do you have a buffing machine?

 

[milo]

You can practice on the dash. Don't be afraid to spray the metalic base coat. Spray it and make sure it flashes before you put on any clear. It should look like a flat finish before the clear goes on.

The dash is already done..

 

[V8&4spd]

The dash is already done..

I didn't realize the dash was done. I thought he was complaining about it. Anyway he can practice painting on something else before he trys and tackles the car.

 

[milo]

I feel sad & disappointed I didn't fight harder back there to avert this exact situation..

I think you got some real bad advice especially after explaining your relatively new to the game..

True it sounds like re-baseing is in this projects future.

I needed to find this thread for you to consider before using primer on your sand through...

Please check this thread about fixing a problem when uncertain it is gonna lift or not..
--> http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/wait-err-theres-fly-my-paint-150462.html

Where is the sand through? Hopefully it's on the thin "trim" body line...
.................................................................................

Looking at the beautiful picture that shows how nice the and even the blue went on clues me to imagine the painter does know how to paint and more than likely put the clear on just as even...

Why not try to polish say the roof panel with the clear that is there and see what it looks like, .. coudn't hurt

Look at the trailer's reflection in on the doors ,nice When I said rebaseing I didn't mean rebaseing the whole project

 

[V8&4spd]

He has to realize what is going on before he can do any kind of blending. Someone who has never painted before is just not going to go out and have it figured out first time. It's easy for someone who has painted a few times, then it becomes old hat.

 

[milo]

I belive you...
Let's find out if he has a buffer ok?

 

[drchip]

I did all the masking and all was well untill pulled tape off dash - dont know why that looks so bad -I'd like to redo the repair with my acrylic in hopes for a better match. But back to the bigger problem I could never have got all that peel out without the 600. I could have grated cheese on that back panel - took a lot of sanding. Anyhow I finished sanding the body today and will start on the fenders tomorrow . So would it be better to use base or that acrylic on my sand through repair? Re base the whole car is not an option - my arm and piggy bank are both shot. It'll become a ratrod before I do that. My buffer is a pos.

 

[milo]

10 -4 , If you use a small mini buff pad like the one you'll see in this next thread you won't burn it or swirl it even if it's the first time you have ever buffed ,,we're going to salvage this project...

Stay in there now...

Read this one-->http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/wetsanding-final-buffing-qs-122091-2.html

hold off on the fenders for now...PLEASE

your doing fine, I won't duck out on ya :welcome:

 

[milo]

http://directbuyautobodysupply.com/3m_polishing_pads_3m_polishing_pad.asp

Product Code: 85-938
Fits CP7201P Mini Polisher. SM Arnold Mini Disc Polisher Pad Kit includes: 1 #57-135 Tuffer Buffer Micor Compounding & Buffing Pad 3.5" diameter, .50 wool, curved Edge, 1 #59-335 Spin Brite Single-ply Micro Polishing Pad 3.5 diameter, .50 wool & synthetic fibers, curved edge, 1 #44-603 Yellow Speedy Foam Micro Buffing Pad w/ Loop Backing 3.5 diameter, 1.00 thick, flat surface curved edge, 1 #44-643 Black Speedy Foam Micro Polishing/Finishing Pad w/Loop Backing 3.5" diameter 1.00 thick, flat surface, curved edge, 1 #69-083 Micro Hook Backing Plate w/3" diameter hook backing 5/8" X 11 thread and 1 #69-102 DA Pneumatic Adapter 5/8"-11 thread to 5/16" - 24 thread. Price: $24.45

yes you can do a big car with a small wheel..yes it will take more time...yes others are going to laugh..BUT the smaller wheel and foam pads get more torque where you need it since the diameter limits the true heat at the outer edge of the spinning pad...