Sand,soda, or media:

I've used sand and media,just get it primered right away[Same day if possible] As rust will start before the blaster gets around the other side[not quite that fast]Yes it peens the metal and if blasted to long can weaken metal severely,but it is very effective at getting metal ready to cover.If any rust is left cut it out!So go for it,you will be pleased with the results,I was,Danny.

 

i do it for a living. sand is not the way to go. i remove paint with acrylic and then clean up any rust with starblast. starblast also leaves a good anchor patter for your epoxy.
sand does not create heat, it stretches the metal on one side . you can go to my web site and see some results of this system.

 

I guess really all blasting is media,as sand,soda,and plastic etc., are all just different medias used for blasting.

I use superfine copper slag,and I stay away from any large flat areas,such as door panels,roof,hood,and trunk,those areas are easy enough to hand sand anyway.

Soda blasting here is very expensive,and I'm told that soda is corosive and must be neutralized with chemicals after blasting.

I've also used walnut shell,but it won't remove rust,and some paints are very resistant to it.

I've also found that some medias can embed particles in the metal,so I go over the whole thing with 3M pads to remove them afterwards.

 

Solution to flash rusting

http://www.holdtight.com/index.html
I own a soda blasting company. When blasting cars we pressure wash Holdtight 102 immediatly after blasting. We havent ever had flash rust situation.
www.********.com

 

These wiki articles may be helpful to you:

--Sandblasting
--Soda blasting
--Media blasting

 

4 year old thread ..... :nono:

 

Thanks shine -- these wiki articles may be helpful to you:






...oops, my error

 

a road runner i did last winter i had soda blasted. when the car was done i the guy that did it told me to wash it with vinegar (big mistake) flash rusted immidately. luckly i did it on a hood i didn't think i was going to use. after that i washed with soap and water and the wiped the parts down with thinner then a strong wax and grease remover, next i sanded the out side of the panels down wax an grease again the epoxy primed them had no problems (yet).

gatorblaster since they blocked your link can you send it to me.

 

first vinegar is acidic and should never be used on metal . second lacquer thinner is the absolute worst thing to wash with. there is a reason most paint mfg advise against soda. look at the wiki articles that are here. ever year or so some retiree with a soda trailer comes here hawking work and it just ends up in a huge pissing match. use the search feature on this site.

 

thats why from them on i mechanically strip exterior and i have been blasting the jambs and hard to reach spots once i put the car on my rotissery, makes life easier. i wish i had found this site when i did that car cause everything i found kept saying to wash with water. didn't sound right to me.

edit i guess i had no problems because i washed the car with detergent and water with a red scuff pad like the wiki article suggested.

 

i wash every car i blast . nothing wrong with it . if you get an orange tint that means it is clean. epoxy and go. but you leave any acidic residue on it and you will have adhesion problems.

 

the problem with soda is it doesnt get rid of the deep pitted rust. and the orange residue wont be there if you use a media like garnite which we use. also you have to sand or give it an etch after soda blasting. its basically pointless and you dont save anytime.

 

http://www.holdtight.com/index.html
I own a soda blasting company. When blasting cars we pressure wash Holdtight 102 immediatly after blasting. We havent ever had flash rust situation.
www.********.com

My project has aluminium fenders and bonnet, so surface "flash" rust is not an issue here.
Being made from VERY thin guage aluminium, soda blasting is the preferred method.

I'm more concerned with the "residue" left by soda blasting.
Two questions: 1) What is the residue left by soda blasting (composition)?

2) Holdtight 102 - Has anyone else tried this after soda blasting to remove the soda residue and prevent adhesion problems?

 

Soda blasting

Just my new issue of Street Rodder. They have a artical about soda blasting. Check it out.

 

Just my new issue of Street Rodder. They have a artical about soda blasting. Check it out.

^ ^ ^ Thanks but we don't get Street Rodder magazine over here.

Any chance of a couple scanned .jpg pix of the relevant pages? Thanks.

 

Have always had cars media blasted, D/A with 80 grit, then epoxy prime. By the way the first car I started working on when I was 12 was a 56 metropolitan convertible that I still have today. Was a father son project, and I guess that is where it all started.

 

Soda Blasting

Soda blasting is the best way to go if you want to remove all the paint. You must wash the vehicle with a mild soap and water first. You have to make sure you remove all the soda and rinse all the nooks and crannies. Good luck

 

we've about reached the point of being ready to have my 60 metropolitan prepped for painting. The big decision is which way to go. I hear horror stories ofr sand blasting warping body panels, soda blasting preventing paint from adhering and the more people i talk to the more confused i am,. Any one have experience with their cars being either sand or soda blasted or some other media? Any input appreciated!

dont sandblast man.i am in the middle of major door shrink work from a supposed good experianced opperator;!!!!!

 

I dont know why you...]

Check the date on the first post :smash:
Check the date on the post you answered :spank:

Damb search engine :thumbup:

 

sanblasting with sand is absolutely the worst thing you can do. funny how people search out old threads to insert links . that link by the way was useless.

 

Why

Shine, if it's old and useless, why are you answering it? I don't see a thing wrong with doing research on something. A person may learn something, try it.

 

A person may learn something, try it.

Why don't you spend more time on here actually helping people out instead of putting everything down.

Whats up with the hostility? I haven't been here a long time but long enough to know Shine is a respected member of this board, and I know better then to attack a long time member when you have only been here for a couple of months.

Did I miss something between the lines? no hate.

 

so what did you learn from the spam ?

and i researched it for a year before investing in the business .

 

Spam?

How come everything is spam lately, and sellling paint isn't? Why don't you spend more time on here actually helping people out instead of putting everything down. I know you have to be a better person in real life instead of being so sour online. At least I like to think so.

 

i dont sell paint nor do i work for spi . i also dont work for ppg , norton , evercoat or west systems but i do use their products as a professional and recommend them. i have also been here 10 years this month and go out of my way to help people.
digging up years old threads just to post a link is called spamming. happens here all the time . there is a large wiki article on blasting and stripping paint .

 

I've been here for years just a different name now. All I can say to you is check some of his posts from a while back and make up your oun mind. I'm done.