[eric32]

Yes you should be able to run a roller oem style camshaft just fine and you should also have the bolt holes for the retaining plate in the front of the block drilled and tapped as well. Also on running a stroker motor a lot of the pistons in some kits the skirts are not as long as really old style pistons but it can vary but a lot of people use the 880 block and stroke them for a 3..75 crank with no issues. You will have to do some clearance in some areas and what areas I can't tell you all of them but there are several spots in the rear and certain cylinders on the bottom that have to be grinded down in order to clear the rod bolts of certain connecting rods and also the crank weights will be really close in the corners of the back of the block.

The thing is you might want a good machine shop that has a good reputation for good work to do that stuff for you as if your not careful you can end up making the block junk and grind to much away and end up in the cooling jackets of the block and ruin it. It does not take a bunch to get it stroker ready but it needs to be done by a good machine shop with precision machines to get the work done really well. I might not have some things correct on the terms on how its done but I am going by the top of my head knowledge. I ran a stroker once with a pre 880 block but it was a brand new block that was pretty much the same cylinder length and I had no problems with the pistons I had used an they were not short skirt style either. Also forgot to mention that is the same block that GM uses on the 383 high torque engine and it has a 3.8 inch crankshaft in it vs the 3.75 crank and they still use a 4.0 size bore and it has no issues and I have heard that many folks like using the 6.0 vs the 5.7 as it helps with the shorter cylinder area and also the 6.0 rod allows for internal balance vs external for the most part on the 5.7 rod version kits. But that can vary as well depending on what kit you buy.