I have already cut off my drip rails, and tried my hand at welding only to learn that i need shielding gas. My dad was worried about the structual integrity of my new seam (i ground off the original non-shielding gas welds and have yet to re-weld it with a true mig welder) He was told by 3 truck buddies from work that all three pieces of the cab join right there and that usually you take the top (roof) and bend it down to where it comes underneath where the windshield rubber would be and weld the seam right there. Now he and I are both worried about it holding up. Is this a job better left finished by the pros, or can someone give me tips to help me pull this one out of the crapper?
70chevy
dude, you were on the right track. just fill up the seam you now have with the mig, grind and weld, grind and weld, grind and weld. i guarantee, i made at least five complete passes on my seams til i was just beginning to be satisfied with the results.
as far as a 'job better left to the pros',......
i'm no pro and i did it. :thumbup:
and have you ever seen anyone who would be as careful and caring with your baby as you?
don't forget. weld and grind, weld and grind. say it out loud.
as far as a 'job better left to the pros',......
i'm no pro and i did it. :thumbup:
and have you ever seen anyone who would be as careful and caring with your baby as you?
don't forget. weld and grind, weld and grind. say it out loud.
Ok larry so here is what i was thinking, start with a nice long feed of wire and get up in the roof a half inch or more and build it up slowly until I am flush or close enough for bondo, Are there any problem areas or situations I should watch for? I will be devestated if in two years my roof breaks free of my cab....
do you know what a weld with good 'voltage' penetration looks like?
you know how the 'burn' mark (actually the heat penetration into the metal) reaches back into the unwelded metal.????.... set your voltage so that you get at least a good 1/4 inch (a 1/2 inch would be better) heat mark ...(with out burn through.).... and you'll be fine. if you don't understand what i mean, let me know.
weld NO MORE than a HALF an INCH on one section at a time. you run a longer bead, it's gonna warp. what i did, welded a small bead at the drivers side door, moved about 6 inches up, layed another small bead, moved another 6 inches, layed another bead, go all the way around, then begin again, repeat til filled all the way around. grind it down, be careful not to grind through your new metal..... make another pass with the welder, all the way around..... grind it again, at this point, you ought to be seeing where your gonna need to spend more time getting things right....... just take your time. don't even worry about filler at this point...... lets get it back to metal first.
you know how the 'burn' mark (actually the heat penetration into the metal) reaches back into the unwelded metal.????.... set your voltage so that you get at least a good 1/4 inch (a 1/2 inch would be better) heat mark ...(with out burn through.).... and you'll be fine. if you don't understand what i mean, let me know.
weld NO MORE than a HALF an INCH on one section at a time. you run a longer bead, it's gonna warp. what i did, welded a small bead at the drivers side door, moved about 6 inches up, layed another small bead, moved another 6 inches, layed another bead, go all the way around, then begin again, repeat til filled all the way around. grind it down, be careful not to grind through your new metal..... make another pass with the welder, all the way around..... grind it again, at this point, you ought to be seeing where your gonna need to spend more time getting things right....... just take your time. don't even worry about filler at this point...... lets get it back to metal first.
When you say burn mark i assume that you mean where like the black stops and the original paint starts? Ok good I am glad I am doing it right. I am going to the guys shop to weld in probally two weeks, so i am trying to figure out what all patches i need and the proper techniques so i dont waste his time. The mans shop I am using is a repair/custom car builder with like 30 somthing years experience he just said his eyes were to bad to do the little mig stuff anymore, so i am sure he can give me tips and help with the little hicups that happen! But do i have your burn mark right?
HUH????
Are people in this forum prejudice against Tig welders, is it a lost art??? Are me and my dad the only ones who Tig anymore??? Dude if your worried about your roof coming off, then Tig it. Strongest possible weld, but a Mig should suffice. Also, NEVER, and I mean NEVER weld without shield gas:nono:. Especially if your Tiggin, but ur Miggin, but you need the gas.
Are people in this forum prejudice against Tig welders, is it a lost art??? Are me and my dad the only ones who Tig anymore??? Dude if your worried about your roof coming off, then Tig it. Strongest possible weld, but a Mig should suffice. Also, NEVER, and I mean NEVER weld without shield gas:nono:. Especially if your Tiggin, but ur Miggin, but you need the gas.
It can be done with little experience
I just finished mine. I'm really new at welding and I used a different method for mine. The driprails on my mustang were fabricated originally by a 2 inch plate crimped together with the body and spot welded underneath the window frame. I cut off the driprail, ground it off and tacked the lower sheetmetal to the upper. I made 3 or 4 passes till I was satisfied with the results. I ground the welds as smooth as I could get them and then used resin to fill in miscellaneous imperfections caused by previous repairs and rust pitting. I should mention also that everything was sandblasted previous to the work. It can be done, it just takes patience and repetition.
Hope to see the finished product,
Pencilneck
I just finished mine. I'm really new at welding and I used a different method for mine. The driprails on my mustang were fabricated originally by a 2 inch plate crimped together with the body and spot welded underneath the window frame. I cut off the driprail, ground it off and tacked the lower sheetmetal to the upper. I made 3 or 4 passes till I was satisfied with the results. I ground the welds as smooth as I could get them and then used resin to fill in miscellaneous imperfections caused by previous repairs and rust pitting. I should mention also that everything was sandblasted previous to the work. It can be done, it just takes patience and repetition.
Hope to see the finished product,
Pencilneck
Attachments
Well I dont have a tig and definetly do not have the time to learn a "lost art" Pencilneck, sounds like we are in a similiar boat, I will probally do just what you did. I just glassed a few parts of my bed so i am pretty comofortable with that stuff now, and I have made a lot of welds in ignorance without shielding gas. So I am fairly confident my welds are good, I posted pics and had all thumbs up. I also think that even though i have the money I will hopefully finish my truck and drive it at college next year with just a straight primer finish. THen come home at christmas break and have my painter lined up. I think 4.5 months should show anything that is going to break out on me. Plus it will give me the option to really really think about what I am doing with the paint. I might get to thinking and saving a do a little custom job with it...Thanks guys for the help I will defiently take pictures and post them it will be about two weeks I think and then I am going to the body shop to weld!! I will be glad when it is all over
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