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Single wire alternator issue

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5K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  ogre  
#1 ·
1950 Chevrolet 2 door HT
GM crate 350
Single wire alternator
Ron Francis Fuse Panel
Car has been on the road and driven nearly daily since 2017

Noticed Saturday my volt gauge was only reading 12 volts. Confirmed the voltage with a multi meter. Ordered and installed a new alternator Monday, same issue from startup. Double checked ground and power, made up 8ga jumpers both power and ground, still dead. Ordered a replacement alternator, arrived today, same problem. The alternators came from a company in Tennessee with the initials DBE. I've bought starters and alternators from them for several years with ZERO issues. It's hard for me to believe I got 2 in a row that are bad.

No blown fuses, no exposed wires, all wires are secured. Alternator is grounded at the back of the case to the engine. Battery ground is at the chassis and to the engine. Ground from battery to chassis is 0ga with crimped and soldered ends. Ground from chassis to engine and alternator are 4ga crimped and soldered. I've tried holding the rpms to 1500-1800, nothing. I also tried exciting the alternator with a jumper wire, nothing.

I honestly think something is frying the alternators the moment I hook up the battery cable, but what?? I've been using 1 wire alternators for as long as they have been available with no issues.

Thanks for any help!!
Bryan
 
#3 ·
<< previous reply deleted when this came up as a new reply >>

Solved. Incorrect part number was shipped twice. The alternators were 3 wire incorrectly sent as 1 wire. Correct unit is on the way.
I hope the new one works for you.

But there's a reason GM never installed a one wire alternator on any vehicle they ever built.

Also, if any further issues come up, "one wire alternator" is incredibly vague. It's hard to help out without knowing the type of alternator (10si/12si, CS130/CS144, etc.) and it's often handy to know the current rating.
 
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#4 ·
<< previous reply deleted when this came up as a new reply >>


I hope the new one works for you.

But there's a reason GM never installed a one wire alternator on any vehicle they ever built.

Also, if any further issues come up, "one wire alternator" is incredibly vague. It's hard to help out without knowing the type of alternator (10si/12si, CS130/CS144, etc.) and it's often handy to know the current rating.
Many many folks use 1 wire alternators successfully. Myself included , the sensor wire / 3 wire is better thing makes virtually no sense to me , but then again , when generators were fazed out , the alternator was never going to work correctly ,according to many experts & then when external regulators were fazed out , the experts declared that as the end of mankind , now its the 1-wire vs 3-wire thing . If you consider the battery as the source with the system drawing current from it & the alternator as providing power to the battery , where the voltage is " sensed" seems immaterial . But that's just me ....
 
#8 ·
i'm a big fan of one wire alternators, we used to make the 3 wire 30-60 amp alternators self exciting by tying the sense wire to the output wire. it made gen to alt conversions easy. that worked fine for 30 years until i built 58TRUK with electric everything and needed the higher amp. i soon found out that powermaster 110 amp alternators are junk, they use bridges and regulators that are borderline junk.

after burning up 2 in 2 years, someone here suggested a bridge and regulator from a certain vendor, i rebuilt the powermaster using those parts and have been good for ten years. i carry a rebuild kit in the glovebox just in case as parts for one wire rebuilds aren't available at most flaps. there used to be an old guy who rebuilt starters, generators and alternators around here, he's retired now, not sure where i'd go anymore. rebuilding an alternator is easy peasy
 
#10 ·
T

Too many variables for a generalized statement ; " I've had trouble with X , others have had trouble with , therefore X is bad " you could take the pro aside & be every bit as accurate ! ( I really hate generalizations & blanket statements )

Its like the last election ,if you only count the votes from one side , they will inevitably win !
 
#11 ·
At the risk of beating a dead horse , the argument that the sensor wire is needed to more accurately sense demand infers that due to the wire harness being horribly undersize ,there is enough resistance to current flow as to not allow the " sensing" of low current at ANY point in the harness & that would have an adverse affect on the alternator function . A one wire works IF the harness has adequate capacity for the voltage to be the same @ the alternator , the starter , the fuse box or ANY other place in the harness ! Now , tell me how wrong I am .
 
#13 ·
you do realize that we're talking about the big 3? i've seen more money wasted in 25 years i've lived in detroit than all the 3rd world despot countries combined. i wouldn't have bailed any of them out. in the 80s i'd tie the sense wire to the output wire when converting generators to alternators
 
#14 ·
So like I said , its not the 1 wire alternator that's the problem , its the wiring harness ! BTW , AFA corrosion is concerned , the fuse block & wiring in my boat are original 1972 equipment , , the wiring in my 73 chev pickup is the same and the fuse block in my hotrod is out of a '66 corvair , I like glass fuses . They all function perfectly . There's an overwhelming tendency in this country that everything old has to be junk , its a very flawed ,manufacturer advanced system that is obscenely wasteful !
 
#18 · (Edited)
I was having some weird low voltage issues with my electrical on my 67 Chevelle.
I installed a 1-wire Powermaster, but still had the same issues.
I ran new wiring from alternator to battery, and from battery to voltmeter, ammeter and a new auxiliary fusebox in the cockpit.
That solved my issues for all of the accessories that are now connected to the new fusebox.
So it was caused by the old wiring harness/fusebox.
One issue that the low voltage (caused by resistance) created, was with my controller for my 4L60e. It would periodically give me a "solenoid overvoltage" error, which turned into an "every time I drove it" issue.
It was actually being caused by the controller's input voltage being low... so the new wiring/fusebox now powering the controller fixed that issue.
So old wiring is going to cause an issue with 1- or 3-wire alternators...