You could get away with just sealing that slicksand before paint but I would apply some K36 and final sand one more time with 600 grit. And I would reduce the K36 for the final prime for a smooth and even application. Be sure to guidecoat the slicksand between changes in sanding grit to make sure you remove all of your previous sandscratches.

 

Thanks Baddbob. I like the idea of a thinned K36 coat over the whole deal. Actually, I think I will tint the K36 with the final color anyway.

I will be using the 3M dry guide coat between blockings

Ed

 

I use Slick Sand on all my restorations. I spray 2 coats than block with 80 2 more coats block with 180. Spray 2 coats of urethane primer with a guide coat and wet sand with 400.

 

IMO I would not use the PPG DP epoxy, it is not worth a flip at holding up. I used some on the metal four piece hood of my 34 to keep it from rusting up until I was ready to paint. Based on things I was reading in this forum on DP epoxy about how it rubs off after it has cured, I tried it and it did rub off. Stripped it all off and applied SPI epoxy primer.

SPI epoxy primer is a far superior product to the DP, it will not rub off and sands really well.

Vince

 

Evercoat Feather FillG2 polyester primer does not need sealing. I've painted directly over it before (PPG DBC) with excellent results.

The info for Slick Sand states explicitly that a sealer is not needed, and I believe it.

I wonder if Slick Sand could be applied over SPI's epoxy. That might be a great method, Barry, will it work???

 

I've painted directly over G2 without problems as a test but it just didn't feel like the right way IMO. I agree with SPI far above PPG's DPLF qualitywise, in fact it beats every epoxy I've used. Any polyester, epoxy, or urethane product can be applied over SPI epoxy.

I plan to do some epoxy primer tests down the road and will post the information here.

 

All I use is SPI primers and clear. Black epoxy first than Slick Sand. Barry told me yes you can base over Slick Sand but it would be better to spray urethane first than base.

 

I've used the PPG line for years without issue. Never had a problem with the DP either. However, I am always interested in newer or better products and technologies.

What is SPI? Where do you buy it? My local supplier sells PPG and DuPont, I've never seen anything called SPI there.

Thanks,
Ed

 

www.southernpolyurethanes.com and their distributor is www.bakerpbe.com
Rusty

 

southernpolyurethanes.com... get the epoxy from them.. aside from the price being less it is such a better product. very user friendly. i would spray 2 or 3 coats of the slick sand and block sand it but im not sure u need to go up to 400 if you are going to spray 2k urethane over it.. i think you would be fine going to 220 or 320 definatly but 400 is overkill.. but id definatly use urethane over it.. helps me sleep at night.

 

I've used the PPG line for years without issue. Never had a problem with the DP either. However, I am always interested in newer or better products and technologies.

What is SPI? Where do you buy it? My local supplier sells PPG and DuPont, I've never seen anything called SPI there.

Thanks,
Ed

Remember that DP isn't available anymore. It's now DPLF.

 

Thanks for all the info guys.

I'm going to try the SPI stuff, it looks and sounds good.

Now, which 2K primer should I use over the Slick sand, the 2K Regular Build or the 2K High Build? I figure the Regular is what I want since I'm only filling 320 scratches in the Slick Sand right?

Ed

 

I started using the 2k but have switched to Turbo primer.

 

The Turbo primer gets great reviews and recomended by Barry more than his other surfacers from what I've seen. Contact BarryK owner of SPI for his opinion if you want. I've got a project underway that'll be SPI from top to bottom but unfortunately I haven't tried the Turbo to give any opinion yet.

 

evill....you stole my name...hahaha :evil:

 

You will like the spi products once you try them... yet to see anyone who did not like the primers and clears.. you can also read more about the products themselves here SPI FORUM

Best of luck to you

 

You will like the spi products once you try them... yet to see anyone who did not like the primers and clears.. you can also read more about the products themselves here SPI FORUM

Best of luck to you

Thanks BondoKing (love that name )

I have been reading the SPI forum all evening. I cannot wait to try this stuff. I was originally going to go with a single stage DCC color, but now I'm thinking I will go with a bc/cc just so I can use the SPI clears too. Will the PPG DBU base coat be fine with the SPI primers and clear?

Ed

 

Ed, Let your epoxy setup overnight before you apply the surfacer, it allows the epoxy to lock up and shrink down some before the faster curing surfacer is applied. If you rush the surfacer application and apply it over a wet epoxy there can be problems related to the differences in cure rate. Hope this makes sense.

 

Ed, Let your epoxy setup overnight before you apply the surfacer, it allows the epoxy to lock up and shrink down some before the faster curing surfacer is applied. If you rush the surfacer application and apply it over a wet epoxy there can be problems related to the differences in cure rate. Hope this makes sense.

Yup, makes sense. I don't like to rush things.

Ed

BTW- if you guys want to see some of the latest projects that I have done, you can check out my webshots page http://community.webshots.com/user/evill914

 

I spent all night reading the SPI Forum, every post. After reading the posts on there about the 2K High Build primer and the Turbo 2K, I was wondering if anyone would use one of those for filling and levling instead of the Slick Sand. Sounds like the fill, sand and non shrinking properties are the same.
Thoughts?

Also, I turned my buddy onto these sites and posts, he is doing some repairs on his car and is looking for a single satge black top coat. Does SPI have single stage black or only base coat black?

Ed

 

I haven't used any of the SPI primers except for the epoxy.

I can say that I really like Slick Sand. I see no negatives whatsoever with it.

Make sure you use a 2.0 to 2.2 mm air cap with it tho.

 

I like sanding the slick sand better for blocking. When you sand it it turns light gray and you can easily see low spots or scratches

 

Okay, I'm getting ready to place and order with Baker PBE for my SPI prodcuts. I am going to do BC/CC on my car, full re-paint with trunks and jambs. I will use PPG DBU or DBC base coat.

Which SPI clear should I use? UV, MS or HS. The HS sounds like overkill and trickier to spray. The UV in all of the pics I have seen looks awsome. I cannot find much feed back on the MS.

Reccomendations?

Ed

 

The only one I have used is the HS with no problems. Spray it wet how you want it to look. I haven't had a run yet. Had some left over RM clear sprayed it like SPI HS nothing but runs. When I went to the website and saw Barry used the HS on his personal 57 T-Bird I figured that must be the best. That is my Super Stock Mustang in the photo section.
Rusty

 

The only one I have used is the HS with no problems. Spray it wet how you want it to look. I haven't had a run yet. Had some left over RM clear sprayed it like SPI HS nothing but runs. When I went to the website and saw Barry used the HS on his personal 57 T-Bird I figured that must be the best. That is my Super Stock Mustang in the photo section.
Rusty

Thanks Rusty. Great looking Mustang you've got there :thumbup:

Ed