I have a 70's era SBC 383 stroker that I am having nightmares with. Even if I use no shims all the way up to 6 shims, I can not get the starter to get even close to a paper clip gap to the flex plate. I tried shimming just the outside bolt which did get the starter in close to the gap I need but it still grinds on start up terrible. I have a 168 tooth flexplate and a chevy taho starter to match that tooth # Any help would be awesome. Its as if the holes on the block are too far away from the flexplate. About to ream out the holes of the starter to push it closer but then Id have to shim the bolts to keep it from moving on start up
TJC
Little know starter shim fact is that you can shim just one bolt to move the starter in or out.
Do not muck up the starter!
You're absolutely sure that you have the right parts??
I gave up on stock junk ages ago but before that it was the old heavy starters and either a 153 or 168. The starter nose was different for each of those and that is why most of the first generation blocks have 3 starter holes in them. I have come across an odd BBC that only had two holes. Without pics, I'm not sure but I think you might have a 168 tooth mixed with a starter nose that uses 153. People here that work more with the late model stock stuff have better info I'm sure.
You're absolutely sure that you have the right parts??
I gave up on stock junk ages ago but before that it was the old heavy starters and either a 153 or 168. The starter nose was different for each of those and that is why most of the first generation blocks have 3 starter holes in them. I have come across an odd BBC that only had two holes. Without pics, I'm not sure but I think you might have a 168 tooth mixed with a starter nose that uses 153. People here that work more with the late model stock stuff have better info I'm sure.
Here is the starter I am using on my Dart shp 377 small block. I have also used it on a previous factory GM 350 block and I have used three different 168 tooth flywheels with this starter and I have had it since 2009 and its still as good as new. This thing cranks my engine over like nothing even if I have had my timing way so advanced before it would have no problem turning it over. It works with both 153 and 168 tooth flywheels.
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Make sure you have the correct bolts to match up to both the block and the starter. Older block with newer starter takes a hybrid bolt, which is available.
Block will be 3/8"-16 thread, but the starter has a metric shank(10mm?) to match the metric size holes in the Tahoe starter nose.....if the bolts are straight 3/8" like the early block uses, even if they are starter bolts with the knurl on them, will fit sloppy in the Tahoe starter.
Otherwise, if you are still too far away with the correct parts, bolt pattern, and ring gear diameter, then the solution would be to mill the pad face of the starter nose.
Drilliing the bolt holes oversize in the starter is not a fix.
Block will be 3/8"-16 thread, but the starter has a metric shank(10mm?) to match the metric size holes in the Tahoe starter nose.....if the bolts are straight 3/8" like the early block uses, even if they are starter bolts with the knurl on them, will fit sloppy in the Tahoe starter.
Otherwise, if you are still too far away with the correct parts, bolt pattern, and ring gear diameter, then the solution would be to mill the pad face of the starter nose.
Drilliing the bolt holes oversize in the starter is not a fix.
Will not milling the starter mounting face make the gear mesh tighter? But angle milling the face depending on direction (inward or outward) can increase of decrease the gear mesh. JMHO
I think it strange that zero to six shims there is no difference. Does the pinion gear always engage the flywheel? Flywheel out of round?
I think it strange that zero to six shims there is no difference. Does the pinion gear always engage the flywheel? Flywheel out of round?
Yeah , checkin parts as mentioned. I bought a bone stock 1981 Monte Carlo back from my brother. I owned it 10 yrs, then sold it to him for 15 yrs..
Monte had sat dead in a carport for 3 years. I put fresh batt in it , tried to start the 305 ... It sounded terrible, loud, Not grinding, just very bad sound. My brother: Oh yea , it does that since I changed the starter a few years ago.. I bought another auto parts box store starter and it was quiet, cranked good.
Monte had sat dead in a carport for 3 years. I put fresh batt in it , tried to start the 305 ... It sounded terrible, loud, Not grinding, just very bad sound. My brother: Oh yea , it does that since I changed the starter a few years ago.. I bought another auto parts box store starter and it was quiet, cranked good.
Here's something to check.
If you are using a offset bolt starter and it is a late model starter on an early 70's block, the starter housing may have interference with the block/shims (between the bolts). This causes all kinds of alignment problems and a howling starter no matter what. So take the starter off and look for a mark on the aluminum starter housing between the bolts where the starter is binding. Fix is to get the correct starter. I had this experience myself on my 383 - 1972 block (both mounting patterns) - using multiple later model mini-OEM-type offset bolt starters.
Good luck. I didn't have room for a larger OEM-type starter in my S10 swap (or even a Hitachi type), so my cure was a Summit mini-Denso turned upside down in it's inline-bolt mounting plate. What a great starter, but not exactly cheap!
Summit Racing SUM-820311 Summit Racing® Protorque Starters | Summit Racing
If you are using a offset bolt starter and it is a late model starter on an early 70's block, the starter housing may have interference with the block/shims (between the bolts). This causes all kinds of alignment problems and a howling starter no matter what. So take the starter off and look for a mark on the aluminum starter housing between the bolts where the starter is binding. Fix is to get the correct starter. I had this experience myself on my 383 - 1972 block (both mounting patterns) - using multiple later model mini-OEM-type offset bolt starters.
Good luck. I didn't have room for a larger OEM-type starter in my S10 swap (or even a Hitachi type), so my cure was a Summit mini-Denso turned upside down in it's inline-bolt mounting plate. What a great starter, but not exactly cheap!
Summit Racing SUM-820311 Summit Racing® Protorque Starters | Summit Racing
Not an expert on em, but I had this issue on a 350 build and starter. gave up on starter. new one needed no shims.......have had it out few times for tranny stuff. never needed a shim or missed a beat. knock on wood.
And yeah, the aluminum plates on the starters were different...meaning the 1st one was off.
And yeah, the aluminum plates on the starters were different...meaning the 1st one was off.
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