Add grounds. my headers rest on my stock starter. I added a ground direct from battery to block and from block to the frame. End of problem.

 

I don't think a heat blanket would work, would probably make it worse since it seems like it would rather retain all the heat inside instead of keeping it out. I'd try a starter shield and see what happens. Haven't had a heat soaking issue ever since I tried the shield on mine and believe me, the headers run verrryyy close to my starter.

 

Remote solenoid works every time! no? Thats what I hear.. :drunk:

 

Remote solenoid works every time! no? Thats what I hear.. :drunk:

Boy, I've chased my tail with your problem for a long time. Rebuilt starter, checked and rechecked grounds, new battery, wiring, starter heat shields, and on and on! Finally wired in a remote solenoid and haven't had a problem since. Try it, it's cheaper than what you've tried so far, and may work for you too. Let us know how it goes, and good luck!

 

Doc here, imp:

Here ya go:

If you don't have points, disregard the "I" circuit..

Doc imp:

 

Thanks for the information. I'm going to try the remote starter. Doc thanks for the schematic helps a lot . Joe

 

Don't think any starter will work when the solenoid goes too hot. A hot solenoid means large resistance, and resistance means voltage drop, so the solenoid won't throw out the drive-gear if it don't get the juice...

Some mini-starters can be rotated 180 degree's, so the solenoid comes away from the headers. But, a remote "solenoid" always sends the power needed to throw the starter drive-gear into play, regardless of the original solenoids temperature.

/Pete

 

Don't think any starter will work when the solenoid goes too hot. A hot solenoid means large resistance, and resistance means voltage drop, so the solenoid won't throw out the drive-gear if it don't get the juice...

Copper has a positive temperature coefficient of .393%/°C, which means that a coil that's 1.5Ω at 25°C will be about 2.1Ω at 125°C. This 0.6Ω makes a huge difference in the current through the solenoid coil and its ability to engage the starter, especially when the rest of the circuit is taken into account, like the ignition switch, neutral safety switch and the associated connections and wiring. Applying full battery voltage directly to the solenoid through a low resistence path will greatly increase the chances of the solenoid pulling in.

 

Doc here, imp:

Here ya go:

If you don't have points, disregard the "I" circuit..

Doc imp:

I had this problem on my tow vehicle,wired it as Doc shows never had a problem again,Johnny

 

Just my $.02

Had the same problem with a stock style starter.

Added Powermaster XS like you said, also added heavier wiring, and problem has never returned.

I would really check out your wiring first before going to the trouble of the alternate solenoid, though it sounds like that would solve it, too.

good luck!
jer.

 

Since I put the headers on my 2.8 I too had problems with hot starts.

I added a FORD solenoid but wired my a bit different. I have a short jumper from the battery cable to the start pin on the solenoid. I then have the normal wire activate the remote solenoid. The remote solenoid then sends power down to the starter and solenoid simultaneously. I used #2 marine grade cable. I also took the time to make sure the starter was alaigned within specs too.

 

Since I put the headers on my 2.8 I too had problems with hot starts.

I added a FORD solenoid but wired my a bit different. I have a short jumper from the battery cable to the start pin on the solenoid. I then have the normal wire activate the remote solenoid. The remote solenoid then sends power down to the starter and solenoid simultaneously. I used #2 marine grade cable. I also took the time to make sure the starter was alaigned within specs too.

One problem with this way of wiring ( hard wiring the solenoid to the starter wire ) is that a modern permanent magnet starter will generate enough voltage to keep the solenoid energized for a short period of time after you release the ignition switch. This could cause some concern when the starter doesn't release.

 

I believe that this is what Larryblack did. I wired my Powermaster starter up like he did and it works great. If the other way works, that's fine. The original basically deletes the voltage loss through the key switch and associated wiring, and this second method just eliminates a few more feet of small wiring.

 

One problem with this way of wiring ( hard wiring the solenoid to the starter wire ) is that a modern permanent magnet starter will generate enough voltage to keep the solenoid energized for a short period of time after you release the ignition switch. This could cause some concern when the starter doesn't release.

True, but some do it and some don't. I had a Delco mini starter knock off on my 34 that would do just as you described. I replaced it with a high torque Powermaster that does not exhibt that problem.

Vince

 

Generally, the load effect of the bendix dis-engaging makes the motor stop right quick. I have not had a problem. (insert smiley with fingers crossed here)

I did have a problem with it wired like Doc showed. It was better but would still not engaging after 2 or more hours of driving. I would have to wait for it to cool. I am NOT saying how Doc shows will not work. I actually wired the start pin directly with a dash switch and 14 gauge wire.

lust4speed, that is how I did it.