Hummmmmm, First of all get a measuring tape...........lol,j/k
sorry I couldn't help it you left yourself wide open.

Have some one help you, take a piece of tailpipe tubing or something like that long enough to simulate the column,,
hold it in place, and measure from the end to the steering sector, allowing for the correct angles for the u-joints. Mark the other end where you want the steering wheel.

Zipop you have the length.

Troy

__________________
69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod

 

thanks

Thanks for the tip, but do the shafts that you can order come in a form that can be cut to length....or do you have to order specific lengths?

 

You'll have to ask your supplier that, as I make my own.

Troy

__________________
69 ss rs full custom camaro 98 ISCA grandchampion
69 ss rs bb camaro wifes driver
66 Elcamino 350/all dz parts,ac,windows,loaded,my driver
69 ss chevelle bb conv.fresh frame off
26 T sedan street rod

 

The shafts come in either a specific length like 18", or 36". You can also have them cut to a length you specify. I used a broomstick and a piece of cardboard cut in the shape of my steering wheel to figure out how long a column to order. You also need to decide how much you want to stick out the other side of the firewall. The normal amount is usually 2" to 3". Once you have that nailed then you can figure the U-joints and shafts. I first had my column and drop in hand before I ordered the u-joints and shafts. If you look at my gallery you can see that I used wood dowels with the U-joint initially to figure the proper length before I cut my 36" SS double D shaft.

Vince

 

Good photo storyboard

Vince,

Thanks for the answer to my question. Your photos look almost like my setup. it appears that you used 1 spline to dd, 1 dd to ddand a dd to dd at the column?? Did you not have to use any support bearings? I do not see any in your photos.

 

Yes, I used a 26-9/16" spline U-joint on the Flaming River rack, then double D's the rest of the way. I did use a support bearing, look closely, it is temporarily held in place with a C clamp.

Watcha building?

Vince

 

1933 Plymouth street rod

I am building a 1933 Plymouth 5 window coupe street rod. Rescued it from rusting away beside a garage in the Texas Panhandle. I have some pictures in my gallery. It is a 350 bored .060 over.....I went a little overboard on it though...will be barely streetable engine -wise...has a big Crane Cam with rollers and an 800 Edelbrock. Trans is a Bowtie Overdrive Stage 3 2004R....B&M Quicksilver shifter....GM 12 bolt rear 4:11 gears...TRW flat top forged pistons with 6" rods and a Lunati billet performance crank

Hadn't built a rod in over 35 years, so I thought... WHY NOT!!! Lotsa cool stuff available now :mwink:

 

This is my first rod in over 20 years. I built a 69 Camaro while the kids were small. Sold it to buy a new truck and raised the kids. Now it's time to play. My daughter lives in Dallas and we come through Palestine all the time on our way to visit her. Like to drop in on you some time and see the rod.

Vince

 

A thought

Hmmm. I just did one with a friend in his 41 P.U. Just a thought about it. Set the new unit in place and leave it loose until you have a seat. We put his in and then had to adjust it several times to get the right angle and distance for his fit. Used an extra link rod because of this. Flamming River units are very easy to do. Suspect that they all are.

hr41pearl

 

I made the mistake of not paying attention to were the horn button feed is located. I accidentally positioned it at 2 oclock. this is causing problems with the cancellation feature on the turn signals.

I think they say the horn button feed should be located a 10 oclock with the front wheels pointing forward.

Hope my mistake is not repeated. Now I have to remove my ujoint from the rack and rotate the steering wheel to the proper location and reconnect. Just a hassle.

Flaming River and Borgerson both have good catalogs and web sites packed with information.


Good luck.

 

I made the mistake of not paying attention to were the horn button feed is located. I accidentally positioned it at 2 oclock. this is causing problems with the cancellation feature on the turn signals.

First I heard of this, what brand column did you install. Do I have a problem I do not know about?

Vince

 

I have a rebuilt gm column.

A magazine article on installing columns pointed that out. Thats when I went to the garage and noticed my column. I sometimes have a problem with my signals.

Maybe someone on this board can confirm the location of the horn button with the wheels pointing straight ahead. Anyone?

 

Instructions that came with the Ididit Column I put in the 57 said to position it at 10 o'clock with the wheels pointed straight ahead.

 

I'm not sure if you checked out other steering shaft companies, but there's one in Torrington, CT called Borgeson Universal (www.borgeson.com). They make collapsable shafts so that you can adjust it to the right length between your steering box and column. Flaming River may do the same thing, but I used Borgeson for my jeep steering because they're about 40 minutes away. I'm pretty sure they do custom work as well if you need anything strange in there.

 

Thanks for the help

With all th suggestions and information that all provided, I think I can get it done now......

 

ets - I sized up my Ididit column by using a length of 2" PVC pipe and the lid off of a plastic five gallon bucket. The PVC is easy to cut and it doesn't scratch the paint. It's real important to set enough length out of the dash to allow for the full-up position, especially if you are going with a column shift. The column shift bezel's diameter needs to be taken into consideration. Another thing to look closely at, is where you want the wire harness to exit the column. Some of the common stocked lengths will have their wire harness exiting the tube right where the preferred mounting point is. For this reason alone, I had to custom order mine exiting at 18" from the face of the shift bezel. Ididit, will build custom lengths to order for an extra 50 bucks. I think Flaming river will do it too. Splined shafts are the better looking way to go, but double-D shafting and Borgeson joints are much easier to work with. I went the easy route.

 

Thanks PrimeMover

We must think alike.....the pvc and a 5 gallon lid is what I am using. I am using a floor shift installation with a dash mounted ignition swich, so all the wiring I will have is the turn signals.....and the "d" shafts do seem like they will be easiest to use.

 

PrimeMover is corrcet, my 32" Iditit column wire exit fell right where the column drop was to fall. I simply moved the column drop up a little to clear the harness.

Vince