Replace it with an M22 or Richmond and junk it.

Vince

 

and in your opinion , why junk it? When in my opinion I'm not a fan of the M22, already have blown one of those in the past? Also I don't have a couple grand just layin around for an off the shelf from Richmond.

 

I have only seen one of those iron cases and it's in a friend's '69 Camaro with a 454. I have an '80 ST10 also, but I haven't had a chance to remove it from the car and inspect it. I hope it's better than yours. Good luck finding one of those iron cases. I'm going to get a new Autogear Muncie someday when my wife stops spending all of my money.

 

BGH, doesn't AutoGear also do the borg-Warner ST010 parts?? I thought they did.

I'm one of those guys that prefer a ST-10 over a Muncie also, blown up several Muncies in the past but never a ST-10.

 

I don't know if Autogear does any BW parts. The Muncie will be for my '69. My son has a '80 Z28 with the ST10 that we are going to build for him. Putting a 427 in his car too, so I hope the ST10 is up to it.

Found this on the Autogear web sight. http://www.autogear.net/pdf/T10Catalog/WG_T10.pdf

 

All in all, I'm not disappointed about the situation. Things break and ya fix em, and learn along the way. I have a builder buddy who made a living in gearboxes all day, so he offered to teach me hands on how to go through it. I am just trying to do an upgrade along the way. I know the cases are out there and the "hunt" has to be a part of the fun. If your not enjoying what your doin, the effort isn't worth squat.

 

Found one on Ebay.

Vince

 

BGH, Eric;

That endorsement from you guys means a lot, honest.

Auto Gear did/does do T10 parts. We're not having them manufactured anymore, as the influx of chinese and indian parts flooded the market.

If you need help, or rebuild kits, we've got that, and a reasonable stock of gears, clusters and shafts.

Most Muncies fail because the case flexed or isn't dimensionally correct anymore. The Iron Midplate and Supercase have fixed that problem though. There is sale on those items on the website. If you want to build your own AutoGear Muncie, we can sell you a knockdown kit.

If the case is cracked on your T10, you can have it welded, BUT if it warps, you're still in the same boat all over again. Id replace it.

Dont forget the Muncie replaced the T10 when the HP numbers went up, and the T10 came back into the GM fold when HP numbers dropped.

 

I think the super t10 is an improved version over the old t-10 from before the muncie.

 

My boss George was in pretty tight with the guys at Warner Gear; according to the Engineer-speak there was no Super T10 installed in a car. The "Super" T10 was the name given to a T-10 they sold in a crate over the counter. No engineering stuff says Super T10 on it; just T10 or 1304-xxx-xxx. The T10 continued to evolve, but except for the really early esoteric stuff (57-62 or thereabouts), all T-10s are essentially the same. The problem with T10s is case stretch on the aluminum version, the 7/8th inch C'shaft diameter and cheap parts sold at expensive prices.

Theyre fine for street cars. But with the availability of todays basic 450hp 383 beginner hotrod engine; they were never really designed for it, in fact thats nearing the reliability threshold of a factory Muncie

The problem for us has always been people will dump the majority of their budget into the engine and paint, and some into the axle/brakes and whatever pocketchange and lint you have goes to the trans guy.

 

I stand corrected, LOL

Thanks for the correction on the mis-labeling of the "super" T-10 Trans. I should have said 2nd Generation t-10, I suppose. I haven't sunk a ton of money into my project, and its been all hands on, as most here do. My car is a street car and low budget. The only "new" parts I have installed involves interior. Everything else is second hand, in good shape. I couldnt walk away from a "free" transmission, no BFD, so the case is cracked and first is shot. Everything else is ok and I am getting a hands-on lesson in a tranny rebuild with a friend of mine who knows what works and what won't. I have a Sag that works fine. I am just gonna build the T-10 for a back up. I thank all of you out there for your time and help with my questions.

 

Don't sweat it. It's really obscure knowledge no one really needs honestly. Feel free to use the T10 PDF from us thats posted on here and also available on the website. If your friend and you need some parts, let me know and we'll get it done. You couldn't ask for a better guy than my boss, Hes a gearbox junkie and only gearboxes, the car its in is irrelevant to him...just the gearbox thanks.

You're in good hands with Cobalt, BGH and Eric on here along with the others.

BTW a quality T10 overhaul kit is going to be 125+ depending on whats inside

Skip the BCA bearings and cheap rings if you can afford to.

 

Yup got it! So I found some additional info "out-there" about nickel gears, besides the cast iron case info. Is that a standard issue or extra cost to upgrade? Also can early case be modified to accept the larger splined input and... uh excuse my lack of experience that other 7/8 or 1inch shaft as it were... is it for the countershaft???

 

Back in the day we used to have the smaller countershaft case machined to the large 1" shaft in the Muncie. One of our friends dad was a machinist at the Mobil refinery and would do it for us no charge. That was when the companies didn't mind too much if you did governement jobs.

Vince

 

High Nickel 9310 alloy is great for racing when you are going to refurbish the gearbox routinely. What extra peak strength is gain is negated on the street by the fact that it fatigues relatively quickly. We almost always suggest 8620 which is the normal alloy used in gears.

When someone asks about a countershaft or pin...its the smooth steel rod that the cluster gear rides on. It is in most cases 7/8ths of an inch in diameter, except for the (2nd Design) Super T10 and Muncies which are 1" in diameter.

Now...converting the case to a 1" c'shaft if done properly is usually 200 bucks...cheaper guys will assume the case is square and the hole is round and just open it up. This is B-A-D.

Now assuming you don't mind that price, you have to FIND a 1" countershaft, which is getting troublesome. AND, The ratios change when you go from 7/8ths to 1" so you need to buy a 5 gear gearset which will then be 500 bucks plus (I don't do a lot of this so Im making a vaguely educated guess for a large ballpark).

You can easily have a grand in this before you blink and its just not worth it unless you NEED that specific ratio. The ford toploader is a 7/8th shaft and does fine along with the muncie and early T10 until 400hp reliably if you dont have ladderbars, nitrous and sticky tires.

Advice; find the trans you want and rebuild that one...its cheaper in the long run.