Do a search on here and you should find plenty of pics and how to's. I would just get some 2x4 tubing and start welding. :welcome:

 

I agree !!!! Build it yourself... Very easy to do...

 

Just so you know, when a professional car builder starts from scratch, the frame is the last thing to be fabricated. All the components are put into place where they need to be and the frame simply ties everything together. Sure as hell, you'll get the frame built and then find out you don't have enough room to run a mechanical fan. I used a 428 Ford/C6 with a Walker 4-core radiator with all stock Ford fan and fan clutch. I extended the wheelbase to 117 inches to accomodate everything. The big 428 looks lost in there, doesn't it.
Put the whole body/bed/engine/trans/radiator/differential/whatever mess together on the floor of your garage, set at ride height. Then you'll see what you need for a frame You might need a kickup in the front or the rear and if you construct the frame first, you'll be backing up, cutting the frame and wasting time and material. Some fellows use 1 1/2" X 3" X 0.188" wall rectangular tubing, some use 2" X 3" X 0.125" wall rectangular tubing, some use 2" X 4" X 0.125" wall rectangular tubing. I went the unusual way and made my T frame from 2" X 6" X 0.125" wall rectangular tubing. You can see the frame stubs in front in the photo. The 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 1/16" tubing you see under the body is the framework for the floor. If you try to use the bottom of the body for the floor, your knees will be up in your throat and you'll be sitting up in the wind looking like Herman Munster driving a go-kart.

Here's a list of references for you to look at and see how others have done theirs....
http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/tech_info/techindex.asp

 

Just so you know, when a professional car builder starts from scratch, the frame is the last thing to be fabricated. All the components are put into place where they need to be and the frame simply ties everything together. Sure as hell, you'll get the frame built and then find out you don't have enough room to run a mechanical fan.
Put the whole body/bed/engine/trans/radiator/differential/whatever mess together on the floor of your garage, set at ride height. Then you'll see what you need for a frame You might need a kickup in the front or the rear and if you construct the frame first, you'll be backing up, cutting the frame and wasting time and material.

Here's a list of references for you to look at and see how others have done theirs....
http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/tech_info/techindex.asp

You make some good points tech.. But in this shop,, The frame is usually first.... But then again,,, If it's a professional car builder... He should know better.. Just my two cents... And I think I missed your birthday tech... Happy birthday.. :thumbup:

 

But in this shop,, The frame is usually first....

And that works fine if you know what the finished product is going to look like (because you've built them before or know someone who has). Thanks for the birthday greetings. :thumbup:

 

realisticly, those kits contain about $60 worth of material. If you have a decent chop saw, you can get 2x3 11ga at any good supplier, spend the $60 and have a perimiter frame for less than $100.. I would reccomend some sort of jig to clamp the rails down and hold them in place when you weld them..

This is what I used. It is a 1/2" 4x8 sheet of plywood split in 1/2, and run lengthways. it's framed/squared with 2x3 framing timbers, leveled with shims underneath, holes drilled with a hole saw allow a pass thru for the the clamps The orange blocks were placed after the rails were assembled on the jig but they really don't do much.. I painted it safety yellow with rustoleum for welding visibility and so the wood didn't burn so quick.. I did end up cutting a second set of holes so the rails could be flipped to weld the other side

After welding.. you can see the jig halves moved. The center rail was placed in the joint, and is clamped on both sides, which is what holds the jig togther

This isn't the exact type of frame you will end up with for a T bucket. These rails are sized to use a Ford Ranger front suspension clip, so the frame is kicked up in front the correct amount to set the ride height, most T bucket frames don't need a kicked frame in the front

 

Ok so i did a search and didnt find much. what i did find is mabe a model A frame would be better. Im looking to put a small block v8 into the frame rails and probbly use a fiberglass body unless i can find a steel one that isnt to rough. This project is just something to build for fun with out going wild. I see on speedway motors i can get 32 ford coupes for a decent price and they should fit on a nice frame. Ive got a bid on a model A frame which i should know about at the end of the week if i have or not. My question is if i go with the model at frame can i customize a t bucket fiberglass body to fit it if i wanted? I would assume the Model A coupe bodys would fit nicley on a model A frame but just wondering if it would work?

 

Hey guys im looking to build a rat rod/ street rod from scratch.

I guess we took this the wrong way... I did for sure.. :drunk: When you said ''from scratch''... That means to me your going to hand make EVERYTHING... Frame, And Body..and everything in between..What you want to do.. Is buy a bunch of stuff, and PUT a car together... Not build one from Scratch.... There a big difference..I would still build the frame...Then you can have it anyway you want it..

 

Yea sry guys for that. Yes I want to build a car with parts from the frame up