You can try a standard routed pcv but with a strong one way check valve inline with it, another option is run two closed style breathers with nipples on them and lines run to a catch can.
Or, in your application which IIRC is pretty serious I think is time to step up to a vacuum pump.

 

vacuum pump has been in my thoughts for a while but they are so expensive and there must be a cost effective way of seeting up a PCV

 

I copied this. Go off the air cleaner.

Are turbos, not awesome? I never new it was that easy and cheap.

 

Another option is to run an electirc vacuum pump-they don't pull as much vacuum as say, a Star or Aerospace belt drive unit (which can pull too much vacuum for a street car-which I assume it is?0-

A popular electric pump is a Mustang Cobra pump-it will generally pull about 4-7 inches of vacuum, and isn't a difficult install-

Cardone 32-3500M Remanufactured Domestic Smog Pump : Amazon.com : Automotive

Basically, you plumb it just like a regular belt drive pump (but you can use smaller hose if you like), utilizing your existing baffle (if not, here is the one I'm using):

STAR Machine: Fittings / Hoses
(it's the one that's second from the bottom on the left-$38.95)

It won't suck so hard in a street application as to pull the oil off of the cylinder walls, but will definitely fix your problem-

 

Depending on boost pressure, you may not have much choice but a high volume vacuum pump or catch can. The smaller smog pumps may not pull enough volume to keep up with your engine's blowby at full boost. The vacuum pump would be preferable to a catch can as it will help prevent dilution of your inlet air charge. If you look at the typical VW/AUDI PCV system for boosted applications, they rely on check valves(many), a ventury type vacuum booster, and finally a crankcase pressure regulator which is just a normally open spring loaded valve that closes with sudden pressure changes. This system just barely works on the stock applications and I've seen trouble with them as engines wear and blowby volume increases. Guys running high boost on these engines will eventually run into trouble with this. A good vacuum pump, like the Moroso 4 vane, with a relief valve set at 15" or less, may be your best bet. Money spent now for better performance and less trouble down the road. Just my 2 cents. Also, the vacuum pump is rebuildable with a reasonably inexpensive kit.

 

What is wrong with going to the pre turbo intake piping?

The one I had the pleasure of doing had a factory crank case exit to an oil cooler/reservoir , the cooler was still piped to the pre turbo intake piping. The crank return was fed through the pre turbo intake as well.

 

Something like this if I remember.

Different example-On my supercharged c10, the one side is a breather the other a PCV valve to carb base PCV port..

 

that last picture looks better and more easily understandable the first one seem like a lot of hoses and probably a little over kill with transfer/balance hoses... im assuming that only on there because you should it on a horizontally opposed engine

 

Do NOT run it to the inlet side f your turbo unless you want to coat your turbo with black goo.

Run a large line to a catch can with a good drain to your oil pan (above the fill level) and a breather.

You can also omit te catch can and just run an enclosed breather with a Jose connected to blow below your engine- if you do that keep an eye on oil levels. A well sealed engine will have no problems with that approach, a poorly sealed engine will need a catch can.

 

I am probably getting black goo all over my supercharger impellers too.

 

Very likely. At least your supercharger won't be as effected as it spins at much slower speeds and has better support. Also consider the surface area and size. A few grams of gunk goes a lot further to do damage to a turbo impeller than a supercharger rotor.

 

I've heard of this problem, but I have no experience with it. How much boost should you expect this to happen? i.e. 10+, 5+, 14+, ?

I ask as we are boosting our SBC soon, with no experience other than what we've read (cringe.)

I was planning on putting check valves in the pvc line and breather line to the TB, but I'd like to see the 'catch can' setup. Does anyone have any pictures or descriptions?

 

Just vent to atmosphere, no reason to run it to the intake side. Catch can or not just vent to atmosphere.

 

Just as a matter of curiosity would it work if i put a breather on one side and a pcv from the other side to the pre turbo ducting to give me the pcv effect at WOT and boost but since blowby isnt much of a concern at idle or low speed it would just vent out of the breather

 

no. ain:

 

As someone else already mentioned - why not open breathers or to an open catchcan? PCV is just a pollution control device anyway and if you don't need it for your application then don't use it. Agree with the others that you don't want to plumb it back to your turbo as that will just suck the oil vapor into your intake. Most people change stock setups to avoid that very thing. If open isn't working well enough for you take a look at the size of your breathers and open them up. Or figure out why you are getting excessive blowby to cause even open breathers not to let it vent (which would be a lot).

If determined to use a PCV valve and have high boost pressures you might take a look at krankvents. I know many that use those in racing applications for upper boost pressure situations and they work well. I have one car I use them in. ET-Performance & Racing Products

 

where can you buy vacuum check valves...i checked both summit and jegs and both of them show vacuum check valves that are for brake boosters or the others vave very small hose attachments like the biggest one is for a 5/16 hose and as far as i know PCV should be 3/8 at least

 

Your plumbing section at the hardware store should have them, or
McMaster-Carr
Has a wide variety and assortment of them.
I would think a GM brake booster one would do the job tho.

 

im certainly not set on using a PCV valve i would def prefer not to but i also dont wanna drop all the money on a super expensive vacuum pump unless absolutely necessary. i would love to be able to run open breathers and thats it..right now i have the ones that look like like air filters. I also know that beside the pressure in the crankcase causing my oil leaks, it decreases power and prevents for proper ring seal so i would def like to have my crankcase be evacuated properly

 

i have tried using the exhaust mounted crankcase evac kits and never could get it right and couldnt get it to pull vacuum

 

Edelbrock 4410 Edelbrock Breathers and Accessories - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

one of these on each side with a short section of tubing routed straight down (around the headers) to drain below the pan (for cosmetic reasons).

Open breathers would work too but you may have some oil mist all over your valve covers when you're done.

 

yeah thats the problem currently with the open breathers an 14psi boost i blow oil out of the valve covers and it smokes because all the oil leaked onto the headers

 

Honestly, I put it down the intake. I have NO concern about black goo.

Admitting that I never scraped the turbine to see how many grams of black tar resin could be collected. I have had no problems with my forced induction rides.

 

its not the appearance of goo that becomes the problem, its the reduction in efficiency from it being deposited on the housing and wheel and the reduce bearing life. Measuring the mass of the goo would give you an amount but it wouldn't do anything to show the effects.

What's everyone's problem with venting to atmosphere?

 

My only concern about venting to atmosphere is that I have it with open breathers now an it makes a mess and smokes when the oil lands on the headers so I can't use that

 

That's why you use the ones with a fitting for a piece of tubing (like I posted) and run the tubing down below the pan, just a short direct route.

Just need to watch the oil level to make sure you don't lose too much through the blow off.

 

If I did the catch can idea does the catch can need to be vented? I actually happen to have a catch can and it has two 3/8 ports across the top and one at the bottom which I think is the drain

 

Yes, the catch can will have to have a breather/vent. The blow-by air pressure that is carrying the oil has to go someplace, the catch can retains the oil and would need to be drained periodically

 

How well do you think it would work if I ran both valve covers to one catch can

 

fine, but you really don't need a catch can unless you have excessive blow by. it really just takes the right breather and a tube going to below the oil pan. Its not rocket science.

 

You can run both valve cover vents to one catch can. Not uncommon. Just be sure to use large enough lines. No idea what size engine you are applying this to or the source of the boost pressure (you never said) but running -12AN size for venting that way wouldn't be unusual. Don't go small if you're having problems already. Get a catch can with decent sized ports (ie - 12AN).

If you have such severe oil loss from this problem then I wouldn't suggest just an open tube to blow it out on the road. You don't want to go leaving oil all over.

If you have a baffle at the vent port base then it shouldn't blow oil to the point of changing on your dipstick. Or even measurable much in a catch can if engine healthy. But yeah, make sure and use baffles under the breather in the cover(s). If your valve covers don't have them put some in.

 

If you have such severe oil loss from this problem then I wouldn't suggest just an open tube to blow it out on the road. You don't want to go leaving oil all over.

If he has severe oil loss then obviously he also has a lot of uncontrolled combustion gasses, either through exhaust valve seals or more likely piston rings not sealing. If this is the case money would be best spent on a rering job (possible overboring).

A catch can should be used if you have oil loss problems, but you shouldn't have oil loss problems to begin with.