Get an old distributor, knock the gear off of it, cut off the weights and Springs and you got yourself a primer.

 

I actually have an old one on the shelf that is already missing the gear. Problem is it's from a 56 chevy and someone told me they would really like to have it, still has the aluminum tag that wraps around it with it's part number (I think).

 

My philosophy has always been - need a tool once borrow it; need it twice, buy it.

 

Is the thought or meaning behind that, if you need it twice you will most likely need it more than twice?


UPS came a bit late today for my old regular driver, but the tool was still here around 1PM. But I'm busy with other things. I already got the lifters primed again by dropping an old distributor down the hole and cranking, but I'll still use it a while because I didn't fill the push rods with oil. 3/8 rods take a while. (the bottom end hadn't been apart)

 

Autozone ? Just checked their site for Tool Loaner" tool showed up. You could just order this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Small-...num-SBC-BBC/163594838818?epid=2149930096&hash=item2617032322:g:rv0AAOSwlZFau4D3

 

Autozone ? Just checked their site for Tool Loaner" tool showed up. You could just order this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Big-Small-...num-SBC-BBC/163594838818?epid=2149930096&hash=item2617032322:g:rv0AAOSwlZFau4D3

The autozone here said they don't have them anymore, my first stop was an ORiely Auto which isn't as big as AutoZone. Maybe since it was almost closing time the fricken A hole manager at AutoZone just wanted to get rid of me. I feel compelled to report him to his authorities. He constantly badmouths the store he works at. Not manager material in my eyes. Not something I normally do, it's just that he is so bad that you can't help but hate him.

 

Geesh, I thought the title was taken from my wife's description of me :-l

I'm with 49 Ford Coupe - I have an old dizzy with only the shaft and I ground the top end to a 6 sided ordeal so my cordless drill grabs it easier.

 

I have an old dizzy with only the shaft and I ground the top end to a 6 sided ordeal so my cordless drill grabs it easier.

I spend time on other forums. Over the years, I've lost track of the number of folks who post about burning-up 3/8 drills, especially cordless.

You're NUTS to use a cordless or 3/8 drill to turn an oil pump priming tool. The tool is spinning an oil pump that is geared to turn at 1/2 crankshaft speed. The engine develops plenty of pressure at cranking RPM--probably under 200 rpm.

You can prime just fine spinning the pump 60--80 RPM. About one turn per second. The oil is cold and thick, so it doesn't flow all that well.

And then someone puts a low-torque drill that's likely geared to spin 2000 rpm, but with little torque onto the end of the priming tool. Of course the drill burns up.

AT LEAST use a 1/2" drill, geared for 500 rpm, and four times the torque.

Better still, turn the pump BY HAND. For Chevy and Pontiac, take an old Points distributor, grind the teeth off the distributor gear. Thread a long machine screw into the top where the rotor used to screw on, and if you wanna be fancy, use a few inches of brake tubing over the threads of the machine screw as a handle. Works on any engine with a SUBMERGED oil pump driven by the distributor. (You may need a drill motor for Buick, Cadillac, Mopar B and RB, etc, where the oil pump is above the level of the oil, and must suck mightily to prime.) Oldsmobile is even easier--use a 5/16 socket to grab the oil pump driveshaft, and spin it with an extension on a ratchet or speeder handle. Ford with the hex driveshaft is probably similar.

But what about priming the valve train?

What about it? Priming the oil system takes less than one minute. The ONLY thing you're trying to accomplish is filling the oil pump, oil filter, and main oil galleries with oil. The galleries will begin to drain immediately after the priming has stopped.

Some guys make a career out of "priming" the pump, turn the crankshaft, prime some more, turn the crankshaft, prime some more...all in the hope of squirting oil over the fenders from the rocker arms. I've seen posts where guys spend HOURS dicking with the oil pump priming tool. THIS IS CRAZY.

Every moving part in a new engine should be coated in assembly lube. "Priming" doesn't lubricate anything--it just displaces air. And hydraulic lifters are notorious for needing to be bumped by the camshaft before they'll properly fill and pass oil up the pushrods.

"Over-priming" to get oil at the rockers is another reason drills burn up.

Priming is DONE when you see oil pressure on the gauge. Shove in the distributor, and fire that mother up.

With a submerged oil pump, "priming" the oil system is MOSTLY just a "feel-good" deal. It really doesn't do anything useful, because even without priming, the oil system will fill within five seconds of the engine starting and running. In the meantime, all the parts are sliding on the assembly lube, no harm done.

 

Amazon, get it in 2 days

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

After my Summit order I saw one at Amazon that I could get in two days free shipping. I didn't like it because the end for the drill to attach looked round and really narrow like it could break off easily. Although now that I think of it, that could be a good thing as I sometimes have a problem getting the drill to fit into the cowl area. So when I get MINE, I can customize it to how I want.

 

Here's my freebie "recycled" solution if you have an LS, or other engine with crank-mounted oil pump. Reject SBC oil pump, aluminum scrap "handle", tapped fitting in pump for hose, hose, and oil passage adapter. Add your oil to a handy bucket, plumb up the lines, and hit the pump shaft with a drill motor. Beats spending $200 for a pressurized container system, and you can store all the pieces in the bucket if there's a good fitting lid...

Russ

 

Yes it is. Just the way it seems

 

To explain a little further, there used to be no place in my area to rent these tools. If you didn't have a tool you would need to borrow from someone. Therefore if you needed it a second time you would buy it. This way you wouldn't wear out your welcome.

 

Well I got the tool, almost had to cut it short to get it into the cowl area. Put the tool in first then attached the drill, I had at least an 1/8" to spare. Got the pushrods full of oil.

 

I have a pushrod that I flattened on one end to insert in the pump.
with the engine out I use a regular drill, engine in I use an angle drill. worked for me for years

 

But what about priming the valve train?


And as for the angle drill, I have one but my batteries are with my other tools at my girlfriends house. I just remembered I also have an angle adapter tool I never used. Could have used that even with other drills I have around here. Anyway it's done. May run today but a Dr appointment in the middle of the day 45 minutes away really screws me up. I better get out to the garage after this next cup of coffee.

 

I have a pushrod that I flattened on one end to insert in the pump.
with the engine out I use a regular drill, engine in I use an angle drill. worked for me for years

 

I have learned around here that it's best to do what makes you comfortable. And if cranking the engine over a 1/4 turn, then hitting the primer does it for you then so be it. It doesn't hurt a thing (other than a drill motor here and there). For a long time I never primed anything, just coated everything with a mix of 50/50 oil and STP except piston rings - they just got oil. Now I prime them before first fire and prime with the starter if the engine has been sitting any length of time. Does it help? Maybe, maybe not- beats me but it makes me comfortable.


And yep, I have the old distributor version but I can see where on some installs that might be really tight with a drill motor attached.

 

Since I'm borderline with spring pressures on only roller tipped rockers, I like to see oil coming out of the pushrods before starting it. They run hot enough with oil, don't want to see them run dry. That's for this build anyway, someday things may change.

 

I also recommend it buying it on amazon, it'll arrive in 2 days.

 

Come home and buy one from Summit cheap but have to pay shipping, who's advertised same day shipping doesn't ship until the next day (yes I've complained about this before).

Stuff I order from the original Summit store usually comes the next day... which still surprises me... mail order wasn't that fast in the old days... even some 5 second UV glue i ordered from China came in a few days! $1.87 including shipping !!! $10 locally...

 

I have 10 shelves of "specialty one time use tools". Those tools that when you need it you can never find it and while it is less then $20. You have bought 3 of them through summit etc now you and you will be buying a 4th to do the job right.

These are general specialty tools that work in several areas and across several brands. Like male/female specialty sockets, line clamping/removal tools, pressure testers, line adapters(ac/fuel), alignment tools, etc.

That is not including all the electrical, audio, fabrication, brake, suspension, transmission, body, axle, and just vehicle specific tools(wheel lock tools/code keys).
These have there own specialty parts. But it is just easier to have the hammer tool for removing the stupid screw holding the rotor on in the brake section then have that sitting in the specialty tools section.

The reason is behind this is I use the specialty tool then put it back right away so I do not loose the thing. A line removal tool goes in the general specialty tools section. I pop the lines then put the tool back. Where like a brake tool I will use from start to finish throwing all the brake tools back onto the brake tools shelf after.




I have never used a distributor priming tool. Just a good amount of lube and fire the thing.
I do like pre lube/accusump setups. But that is more for turbo or high compression engines where your just reducing metal to metal during cranking each and every time you start it as that assembly lube is no longer in the picture.