The wiring diagram in the Amazon product page shows that the Blue and Black go to a three-pin flasher unit. In which case I suspect the Blue wire goes to the flasher Load pin (L), and the Black goes to the flasher ground pin (E). In this case, if you are only using a 2-pin flasher then you should swap it out for the 3 pin variety.

 

Saw a 2 pin LED flasher with a separate ground wire. Bet that's what I need.
Thanks!

 

It's a typical GM turn signal switch. 7 wires, 3- hot wires: brake switch, hazard hot and turn signal hot. And 4 wires to each corner of the vehicle for lights.

If you use 2 pin flashers, you're gonna need two of them. Typically a 3 pin flasher has a ground for LED lights, not the case in the wiring diagram on Amazon, I've never seen that type of flasher with a hot and two circuits for hazard and turn signal. It defeats the point of having 2 circuits with separate fuses and flashers for safety. You might as well tie the blue and black together after a 2 wire flasher or 2 wire flasher with ground, it's the same thing.

If it were me, I'd use separate circuits, fuses and flashers. Get two of the 3 wire flashers for LED lights with the ground wires. If you bought any universal wire harness, it'll have separate circuits and fuses for all 3 hot wires.

 

I bought this flasher, should be here tomorrow.
I tried the blue and black together, which didn't work. Tried grounding the back, didn't work either.

Are you saying I should just not use the harness for the blinker lights. And just build from scratch?

Thanks.

Amazon.com

 

I bought this flasher, should be here tomorrow.
I tried the blue and black together, which didn't work. Tried grounding the back, didn't work either.

Are you saying I should just not use the harness for the blinker lights. And just build from scratch?

Thanks

I said nothing like it, if you use the flasher you posted it'll only work on the blue or black circuit. Or tie the blue and black wires together after the flasher. Old vehicles only had one flasher in the circuit. If it didn't work earlier to tie the wires together, you have other problems.

What vehicle?
What wiring panel?
All light bulbs installed?

You should have 12v+ on the blue, black (key on) and red wires (with brake pedal down ). Also pull out the hazard switch and push it in fully. Sometimes the hazard switch midway can really mess you up. The red wire will be the only wire attached to the brake switch.

 

Fwiw, those are not GM color code wires.
I have no idea which black or blue wires feed turn or hazard

 

Ok, got it. I misunderstood.
It's the typical Chinese stuff, instructions are horrible, and wire colors on the harness don't match the instructions. It was immediately apparent to me that it would have been easier to build from scratch than to use this, but I'll give it one more shot with the grounded relay, if that doesn't work, I'll build my own. It's easier for me to start from scratch and figure out every aspect as I go than to try and interpret bad instructions.
I have a very limited knowledge on wiring, I'm kind of winging it, but I know it'll work out.
Thanks.

 

If you need a good switch, you can't beat SignalStat 900 series. They were OEM on a lot of old trucks, also bullet proof. You should be able to tie the blue and black together and make it work with a single flasher

 

The grounded flasher did not work. At this point I'm ready to do a stand alone, or is there something else to try?

Right now, I do not have the ignition switch installed. I have the B+ and run wires on the fuse panel tied together along with the red from blinker switch, with the corresponding wires from the blinker switch going to all four corners.
Here's what I have:

With only Black from switch to fuse panel hot, all 4 corners work, but it flashes very slowly. Left front and back have some residual current and some of the LEDs stay lit. Right side work, but slow. Hazards don't work.

With just blue to panel hot, the relay clicks, no lights flash and right rear stay constant lit.

Any chance this is a bad switch?

Edit: I just bought a Signal Stat 900, so start over with good quality and see where that goes.

Thanks again.

 

If you hang tight for a couple days, I ordered one to test out. I'll build you a working schematic when I get it.

 

If you hang tight for a couple days, I ordered one to test out. I'll build you a working schematic when I get it.

WOW, I'm speechless! I will test out your schematic before putting in the new switch.
The irony here is that this Jeep already had a good working Signalstat 900 installed, in my rush to rip everything out and replace with new, I took it out and tossed it. And I did not know the quality of it at the time.

Thank you.

 

While I wait for the new 7 wire signal switch, I'd like to get a relay and it's harness to work with the signal and hazard lights.
I'll wire it separately from the fuse panel and have it stand-alone, powered by B+.

For this, how many pin flasher do I need?
Can I use one flasher for both signal and hazard, or do I need two? Would prefer to use just one for everything.

Thanks again.

 

Hey @Infinite Monkeys, did you get this figured out? I'm sorry I forgot all about it. But I did take a moment to mock the one up that I ordered and it works fine with a 2-pin flasher for me. Here are a couple comments I found tinkering around:

• +12v -> X pin of the 12v flasher
• Black wire goes to the other pin. The "L" pin. This is the 12v "feed" to all your lights.
• The blue wire is meant to be tied to the "P" pin on a 3-pin flasher which supplies 12v constant. This powers a small led in the body of the unit itself. So in normal operation it glows that central amber lens. And when the signal is engaged, it illuminates under the green lenses. Make sense? The P pin is flashed as well so you get that flashing green on the column. So if you only have a 2-pin flasher you can wire the blue and the black together. You just wont get the constant amber. Probably wouldn't want it anyway except for the emergency flashers.
• The unit itself needs to be grounded nicely for the turn signal indicator to light up correctly. So make sure if you have a painted column or plastic one that you run an appropriate ground up to the hose clamp holding it on or something.
• Pay attention to the front vs rear circuit. The red wire is designed to illuminate the brake light on the side NOT flashing. Unless of course you have a separate circuit for that.

I hope that helps.

 

Hi,
I got it done with the new switch. I had to use a 4 pin, LED flasher and I think only the blue or the black wire from the switch. I did not use the brake wire lead. And I had to put in external dash, indicator lights. But everything works.

Using LED's threw a big monkey wrench in the works, without those, I think it would have been much simpler. I had to get several Flashers to see what would eventually work.

Thanks.