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What color is best for a car?

2.6K views 23 replies 11 participants last post by  willys36@aol.com  
#1 ·
Hey guys i'm doing body work on my car but i'm not professional. So since i'm just gonna take the car in the paint shop, they wont have to do any bodywork or nothing ($$$$$): What is the best color to go on a car that might not show any small dents or anything i slipped?

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#3 ·
Lighter colors show less body imperfections. I have also heard that lighter colored cars are more prone to rust than darker cars. Something to do with the darker color cars absorbing more heat which dries them out quicker. I am not sure if I believe that though.

Vince
 
#4 ·
Had a 1970 440/4 speed charger that I played hard with until I twisted the unibody, felt guilty, tied the frames and spent a lot of time and money fixing it up. Hand sanded the entire body. I had a buddy with a paint shop that owed me, so I went to him with my car to get my ultimate paint job..Color=Dark Indigo Blue. NO! he says?? I think the freshly sanded body is beautiful, He points and pokes, says it's still twisted, shows Me! and paints the car an Ivory White color. Bottom Line. My car would have looked bad the way I wanted it, BUT it looked real nice the way my body shop buddy painted it. If you know a good one locally, tell him you want it to look its best and trust him. It's what he does for a living..
 
#6 ·
Light colors = the least. The darker you go the more that will show. You can sand and sand, block and block and when you think it is perfect the dark paints will show every little thing you missed. I saw a car one time that had one deep gloss black paintjob. The only thing was the owner finger sanded every stone chip, finger sanded around every crease etc. You talk about nasty looking!!!!

Kevin
 
#7 ·
I did want to paint it white or silver, but now i know for sure im gonna paint it white. I've always liked white cars. The pictures my Skylark (blue) are pretty good looking but when your in front of the car you can see all the dings and dents.

Thanks for all the posts guys, this really helped me out. You can always check out my Buick Century page for all my updates.:sweat:
 
#8 ·
Heres just a thought, The amount of money you spend to have the door jams, under hood, and trunk painted white or what ever new color you pick with probably cost you as much if not more than the body work needed to make the car strait. So if your want to paint the car the blue it is now then you wont need the jams, under hood and trunk done. And the money you save can be spent on getting the body right for blue paint.
 
#10 ·
What color?

I would go with the original color and save $$$$ in the process. The door jams, trunk and hood areas will look best if you stay with the original color. You are just painting the body right? This way the door jams and hood and truck areas will match.


Tazz


Rat Rods Rule!
 
#11 ·
Yeah i'm just painting the body. But if i go with white white, i might also paint the doors, trunk and hood white. Because the original color is like a beige.



Hey another question. I was reading this other post about a paint job, and: How many gallons do you think of primer i would use on my car if i primered it with a gun my self?????:cool:
 
#12 ·
BLACK

Monday's cars where painted white. Wednesdays cars where painted BLACK. Fridays cars where painted blue. That was an old GM trade mark. By Wednesday the bodies where the straightest and best suited for black. If you are not going to do all the work, it is best to paint it the original color. It will look good today, but by next week you will have had time to see the firewall, trunk, jams, and interior match. Since this sounds like your first attempt at this STUFF, I would make it easier on yourself. The amount of primer is usually about 2-3 quarts. But if you are going to do the sanding and possible the dent fixing you might look at a sand & fill before the primer. Good luck.

hr41pearl :cool: