Definitely stay with the PPG Global line. There are at least 6 different clears in that line that will work for you. Personally I would recommend D894 Global High Solids Clear. It will dry in the temps you're spraying in and with the tip you're using you shouldn't have any problems.

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D893 will also work OK and flow well in those temperatures. D894 will dry much slower and be workable for sanding and buffing for a much longer period of time though. You're using premium products IMO. Allow plenty of time between coats.

 

D893 will also work OK and flow well in those temperatures. D894 will dry much slower and be workable for sanding and buffing for a much longer period of time though. You're using premium products IMO. Allow plenty of time between coats.

Yep, that'll work too. The main reason I suggested 894 is because it's high solids and rookies tend to color sand too much and might cut through the clear. Been there, done that. ain:

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How much time ( as specific as you can) between the clear coats?

 

seventeen minutes :thumbup:

 

here

How much time ( as specific as you can) between the clear coats?

Check the product sheet for the clear you're using. PPG "P" sheets can be found here under the product information heading. The "P" sheet is your Bible for any particular paint. It tells you how to mix it, how to spray it, and everything else you need to know about that particular material.

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Rule of thumb on recoat is if it strings when you touch it, it's too wet. If it's sticky but doesn't string it's ready for an addtional coat. Temps and clear play a big role in the recoat time.

Of course you don't touch it on the panel you touch it on the masked area.

 

Exactly, the clear shouldn't string up when you lift your finger. Dry times between coats will vary with temperature, humidity, and air movement through your spray booth. 894 does stay open longer than 893 so it usually requires a little more time between coats.

 

Thanks guys! Heres another "rookie" question..... Is it necessary to wet sand the base prior to clearing? (IE: the base lays out good but has slight orange peel). Or will it turn out just as good to leave the "slight" orange peel on the base - shoot 2-3 coats of clear - and then wet sand and buff the clear when it is ready. I guess another way to put the question is: If the clear gets sanded flat and buffed - can you see any orange peel in the base coat?

 

I don't know about your base but the DuPont Basecoat I use says
NEVER to sand it.
I have scuffed it with a fine pad for dirt problems but always
have dusted a couple more base coats on after that.
I also would like to know more about this, because I've read
about people sanding the base coat, is this permissable with
different brands? or can you get away with it as long as you put
more base over it?

 

I don't know about your base but the DuPont Basecoat I use says NEVER to sand it.....

Exactly. Some people like to wet sand the base but I don't personally know of a manufacturer that recommends it. For a rookie, the smart answer is absolutely NOT!

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I was always told the only time you should sand base is to remove problems or if
sits longer than the recommended recoat window, usualy 24 hours.

 

You don't want to sand base.

 

If you shouldn't sand base, then Early B's question becomes very important. Assuming a rookie does get some orange peel in the base, will the clear eliminate it? Or do you have to keep sanding out the peel and re-shooting base until it comes out perfect?

 

Thanks cboy! you hit it right on the head. If there is some slight orange peel in the base coat - is it OK to go ahead and clear coat (assuming that you would then wet sand and buff your clear coat)???

Will you be able to see any base coat orange peel under a perfectly flat and polished clear coat?

 

Depends on the definition of "slight"
It's actually hard to peel base unless something is very wrong with the paint mixing,gun set up or conditions. If it looks THAT bad, it WILL show up thru the clear.Not as bad but clear is a good magnifier of any obvious defect.
Now, If the peel is only barely noticable,chances are good that the clear WILL fill the peel and it will look fine. I've goofed a spot or 2 on the base and when shooting the first clear coat was cussing myself until I notice that after flashing off the spots were gone. :thumbup:
Point being,IMO,clear will fill small defects, We DO color sand with 320-600 between coats and those big scratchs are filled.
It's is OK to color sand a solid base and clear IF enough coats of base are layed to prevent cutting thru, the clear is what gives base it's "luster" anyway as most base's are "flat" anyway. It's ALWAY'S best to reshoot another coat of base after color sanding. Metallics are another story all togather.You sand,you reshoot.

 

Awesome - Thanks for the help guys!