crimpers

i have an old set of Klein 1005 side cutters with long handles that have crimping capabilities and also a set of 83-6511 Grote crimpers with dies and compound action for secure crimps. The kleins are manual - the harder you squeeze the tighter the connector crimps -until the jaws are completely closed. The Grotes are compound with dies and a racheting mechanism and will crimp only to the specified amounts. Both are in the $30-50 range if I remember correctly.

 

Go to an electric supply house and see what they have. Kliens are ok but I like Tibbets and Betts. Also know as T&B. I used the ones that have two size crimp spots on them.. They also have different colored grips so when you grab them up you don't really have to look at the working end to be sure you are holdong it to crimp properly ., Just need to pick them up with the correct color grip facing the right way for your use. :welcome:

 

Dorman Crimpers

All, I just bought a set of Dorman ratcheting terminal crimpers at Advance Auto for $32.00. these have a positive crimp and don't release until crimp is complete unless I activate a release switch. Also includes extra jaws for spark club terminals. I think they will meet my needs well. Roy

 

Why not just solder the terminal or wire connection, whatever, last a long time and will never fail unless cut.

I know it takes a little work.

 

Go with the T&B pliers, they do not crimp or squash the terminal. It is a actual staking process, the barrel of the terminal is actually pressed into the wire while the opposit jaw is round and hold the terminal preventing squashing or flattening.

I've seen too many connections made with the type that flattenes or squashes the barrel, with a good pull the wire comes out.

 

There are different schools of though on soldered vs crimped connections. Some say soldered connections eventually fail in a vibration environment. Some say the same about crimped connections.

Vince

 

I have a pair of T&B crimpers. sounds like the same model mentioned in this thread. I keep thinking of replacing them cause I am never sure how to use them. Maybe someone here can explain to me how to use them.

It looks like there are three spots for the crimping to take place. A&B are together, C is separate. But it looks like there is a crimp spot between those two. Is that correct? Also someone mentioned you just make sure the right color handle is up depending on what you want to do. Could you please elaborate....
Does it make a difference which way the crimp goes into the crimper? (For example where the crimp is split should that face the black or the orange handle? One more question...does it make a difference if you are using insulated vs. non-insulated crimps?

Thanks for helping the ignorant!

 

Perhaps Thomas & Betts

Looked all over hell for a Tibetts & Betts but it is Thomas & Betts -lots available but it seems that they are a bit more expensive - $100 range.

 

I have a pair of T&B crimpers. sounds like the same model mentioned in this thread. I keep thinking of replacing them cause I am never sure how to use them. Maybe someone here can explain to me how to use them.

It looks like there are three spots for the crimping to take place. A&B are together, C is separate. But it looks like there is a crimp spot between those two. Is that correct? Also someone mentioned you just make sure the right color handle is up depending on what you want to do. Could you please elaborate....
Does it make a difference which way the crimp goes into the crimper? (For example where the crimp is split should that face the black or the orange handle? One more question...does it make a difference if you are using insulated vs. non-insulated crimps?

Thanks for helping the ignorant!

Not sure which color to be held which way.

Just be sure taht the split in the sta-con is facing the part of the tool that is curved. The part of the tool that makes the dimple should be on the opposite side from the split on the sta-con.

Use strippers ti remove enough insulation form the wire so that when you insert it in the sta-con ,the copper only needs to come to the end of the spilt in the sta-con. If it protubes more it will get in the way of the screw or nut when you mount it to a terminal. DO NOT just pull it back enough to make taht work . The insulation needs to be up against the metal in the sta-con and no further.

Use the correct size sta-con for the wire you are using. Ands also , if using a sta-con with a hole in it get the correct size to fit your stud.

YTou can buy an assortment or you can get a box of specific sizes. They will be labled with the wire size first then the stud size.

For instance 18-12 Would be for 18 gauge wire with a # 12 hole.
Most sta-cons will fit a couple size wires. For instance 18&16 may work in the same sta-con, or 20-16, or 14 -12. The higher the number the smaller the wire gauge.
Makes no difference to the crimper tool if you use insulated connectors or not.

When you use the insulated connectors and you have trimed the insulation off properly ,holt the wire in between your thumb and middle finger, if using stranded wire, twist the strands a little with your other hand. Put the connector on the wire and see that it goes into the hole in the connector with out any strands bending back.
Now holding the wire in between your thumb and middle finger , use your index finger of the same hand to hold the connector in place while you pick up the crimp tooland squeeze the connector wiht thr tool placed closest to the exposed metal on the connector . Give it a good squeeze but don't break the insulation.
Now give the connector a little pull away from the wire to be sure it is squeezes properly.

Next, what I do is crimp the part of the connector closest to the wire a squeeze to crimp it to the insulation.

What this does is helps keep the copper wire from flexing to much and and failing. A lot of preassembled things with connectors are not done this way and on moving equipment this is a failure waiting to happen.

The reason I don't no about the orange / black handle is because the last time I bought a set they only had a "one size fits all" with only one crimp and the handles wer both the same color.

The sta-cons are colored by size wire that they fit.

red is for 20-18
blue 16-12
yellow 10-8 or there abouts.

Hope this helps.Just be sure you have a good connection. They make all kinds of sta-cons.

 

I need to buy a good set of crimper's at a reasonable price (less than $50 or so). What have you bought that you really like? I already have a really good set of wire strippers I've had for years; from my AF days. Thanks in advance. Roy

The first question to be asked is, what are you crimping? Generic crimp terminals need one type of crimper, Packard 56 terminals use a different one, WeatherPak and MetriPak also have their own unique tools.

 

Thanks for all of the info Cape Cod Bob.

One last question. Am I correct in saying that the T&B Crimper WT-111-M is good for insulated and non-insulated sta-kon connectors?

See picture

 

I just answered my own question. The crimpers I have are designed for non-insulated crimps.

The part that makes me mad is I went to an electrical supply store, purchased a couple of boxes of insulated crimps and stated I need a crimper to go along with it. And it looks like the sales guy gave me the wrong crimper. So much for trusting an "expert".

Thanks Again!

 

I've used them for insulated terminals, the drawback is the feel when crimping. Kind of cushy, but will make a good connection.

 

Just go back to the store and explain you need a crimper for insulated terminals but you purchased the wrong one last time from their suggestion and he/she should replace it for you.

 

These I would have said were Klein but on looking closer, they're "no-name specials". I DO have another Klein pair, somewhere. Honest! :embarrass

I always solder, but after I crimp them. First, on goes the shrink wrap (if used). Then I dip the twisted wire into flux, insert into terminal and crimp. Then solder.

Here's what Klein says about them:

Klein Crimping Tool with Wire Cutter
For insulated and non-insulated terminals and connectors.

Thin nose permits work in confined spaces.
Crimping die marked for insulated and non-insulated solderless terminals and connectors.
Accomodates wire from No. 10 to 22 AWG.
Wire cutter in nose. Overall Length 9-3/4"
Red plastic-dipped handles for comfort.

p/n 1005 $24.00

 

Thanks for the suggestion to go back to the supply house where I got it. The only problem was it was about 20 years ago, and I have moved across the country!

The crimpers still work like a champ, and I have made probably 1000 crimps with them. Just every time I make the crimp, I always wondered did I do that the correct way. Now I know I didn't cause I had the wrong crimpers. The crimp always seems real strong, it just mashes and cracks the insulation a lot of the time.

Thanks again.

 

Soldering vs crimp

There are different schools of though on soldered vs crimped connections. Some say soldered connections eventually fail in a vibration environment. Some say the same about crimped connections.

Vince

Those that may say that soldered connections fail in a vibration environment should ask NASA what they use on the space shuttle.

Maybe if they made a cold solder joint. Ok, maybe then. True, you need to learn to solder right and it is more work, but there is NO substitute for soldering.

Crimping is a great way to hold the wire in place while soldering But a well soldered joint will be at or near the holding power of a quality crimp.

Another thing to consider is that while MOST wire and terminals, connectors, etc. are made of copper, they are often coated with various different coatings to prevent corrosion.

So it's possible, if not likely, you are crimping a wire to a terminal that has different coatings. With humidity, temp fluctuations from winter to summer, and any other possible contamination, in time, you may have an electrical connection issue of at least increased resistance, if not out and out corrosion and metallic failure IF you ONLY crimp.

Yeah, Yeah, I know, there have been crimped connections working for years out there without failure. But there have also been failures, depending on circumstances. I seen them with my own eyes.

I like dielectric grease for most manual connections of terminals to help protect from elements and electrolysis from dissimilar metals.

Steve