who`s installing the engine and tranny? if you are, are you certain the converter is all the way in the front pump? if it`s not it pushes foward on the crank, in most cases it ruins the tranny front pump, but it could also cause the problem you discribe. Is the correct flywheel/flexplate being used? if not this can also cause problems due to it being out of balance. lastly, is the builder checking the crank end play?

 

who`s installing the engine and tranny? if you are, are you certain the converter is all the way in the front pump? if it`s not it pushes foward on the crank, in most cases it ruins the tranny front pump, but it could also cause the problem you discribe. Is the correct flywheel/flexplate being used? if not this can also cause problems due to it being out of balance. lastly, is the builder checking the crank end play?

Yes I installed the engine and tranny. I had and about a 1/4 to 5/16 gap from the flywheel to the converter pulled it up and put the bolts in.

Yes it was all balanced. The builder said he set it up at .005 to .006 thousand of play.

 

might be in the tranny

did you check the flywheel bolts and make sure there still tight?

a loose flywheel would make a knocking noise when you start it up
just pop of the inspection plat and see if you can budge it at all. it shouldn't have any play (while the engine is not running of course)

try that and let us know

Jesse

 

did you check the flywheel bolts and make sure there still tight?

a loose flywheel would make a knocking noise when you start it up
just pop of the inspection plat and see if you can budge it at all. it shouldn't have any play (while the engine is not running of course)

try that and let us know

Jesse

Yeah I've double check all that.

Here are so pics of my project.

 

hello I don't have any advice to help you with your problem.

But I would like to say that is a really slick looking dash!!! Did you buy that or is it of you own creation??

 

Try Loosening The Converter And Pushing It Back Into The Front Pump Of Trans. You Should Be Able To Turn The Converter With Out It Dragging On Flywheel If Not You Have Problem With Converter Or Front Pump Or Flywheel.

 

I'd agree that the guy needs to check the crankshaft endplay, sounds like it is excessive

 

hello I don't have any advice to help you with your problem.

But I would like to say that is a really slick looking dash!!! Did you buy that or is it of you own creation??

I run a CNC Machine. I draw what I want in AutoCad then program it at the machine.

Try Loosening The Converter And Pushing It Back Into The Front Pump Of Trans. You Should Be Able To Turn The Converter With Out It Dragging On Flywheel If Not You Have Problem With Converter Or Front Pump Or Flywheel.

I did that it truned without a problem.

I mean I don't know that much, but I know a little. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if a tranny builds up enough presser to push that hard on the crank. Wouldn't it shift hard or act funny

 

Make sure your starter gear is not hitting the flywheel. Trust me, it does not take much interference to make a loud knocking noise. Ed

 

Maybe that shiny new engine is trying to tell ya,to detail the engine compartment it sits in.
Is it a new flexplate??Could it have a hairline crack in it??I've had them crack right around the crank and they have a very tinny rod knock sound.

Have you put it in gear yet??When ya push the converter back it should have more like 1/2" clearance(to my eye anyway)from the flexplate.It may still not be locked in the pump.If ya put it in gear with it out it with prolly destroy the pump.When I put my converters in I put tranny fluid on the seal then push them in and rotate it as I go.You can usually feel it click twice as it locks in.Then once I think its in I try to rock it around to make sure its on there.If it rocks its not in fully.Some aftermarket convereters fit really tight in the seal so It may feel fully on but with a little playing around will lock in one more click.
Just making suggestions.

 

Can you eliminate some variables by removing the tranny with the rear of the oilpan supported and start the engine? You may have to have the torque converter installed to eliminate flexplate wobble. Just an idea.

 

Yeah It's had 2 flexplates installed. I've drove the truck the tranny feels great shifts good to. Oh it doesn't start doing it until the engine get warm. Go about a mile and the knock starts. After it's warm doesn't matter if it's in gear or not. It will knock in park. Just seems to knock louder when it as a load on the motor.

 

Just seems to knock louder when it as a load on the motor.

I am not telling you that this is your problem. But, I had the exact same symptoms once. It was the loudest under load, especially going up a hill. I chased it for months. I even changed the heads to reduce compression. I was convinced it was detonation.

Do this experiment. Put it in drive with your foot on the pedal. Power brake it enough to bring it under load but not spin the tires. Have a friend laying on the ground beside the vehicle looking up at the starter/flexplate area. If he sees sparks, you have found the problem. If not, at least you have eliminated one possibility.

Best of luck, Ed.

 

Do this experiment. Put it in drive with your foot on the pedal. Power brake it enough to bring it under load but not spin the tires. Have a friend laying on the ground beside the vehicle looking up at the starter/flexplate area. If he sees sparks, you have found the problem. If not, at least you have eliminated one possibility.

Best of luck, Ed.

The guy that built the tranny got under the truck while I did that. Thanks for your help. Got anymore idea's?

 

Could it be a mechanical fuel pump making the noise?Again just more suggestions.

 

when you put the aftermarket gauges in do you have to do any thing with the plug for the stock panel i.e.... remove it or tap into any wire terminals? also I see you have a H and a P cut out is that for the PARKING BRAKE and HIGH BEAMS??

 

Could it be a mechanical fuel pump making the noise?Again just more suggestions.

We thought that to. So we took it off and ran the truck without in for a little bit. We even took the belts off and cranked it. Still a noise.

when you put the aftermarket gauges in do you have to do any thing with the plug for the stock panel i.e.... remove it or tap into any wire terminals? also I see you have a H and a P cut out is that for the PARKING BRAKE and HIGH BEAMS??

I took out everything that had to do with the computer. I pulled the wires out of the stock plug. Example volt meter, blinkers, High beam, Parking brake, Speedometer, and Gas gauge. I ran new wires for the Oil presser and water temp. If you still have the computer in your truck it would be fairly easy. All the wire are already there just have to find them

 

Yeah It's had 2 flexplates installed. I've drove the truck the tranny feels great shifts good to. Oh it doesn't start doing it until the engine get warm. Go about a mile and the knock starts. After it's warm doesn't matter if it's in gear or not. It will knock in park. Just seems to knock louder when it as a load on the motor.

A few things come to my mind

Too thin oil??
When the engine is cold the oil is thicker and as the oil heats up, it get thinner allowing for more movement of the adjacent parts...
I'm not an oil expert, but you need to run the correct viscosity oil, being 10W 15W or 20W dependend upon you local ambient temperature, and the clearances built into the engine.

con rod bearing.
An engine with a too large con rod bearing clearance will have a knocking sound. Probably more when hot than when cold.

Piston slap is also a source for knock

try and do a search also

Regards

'59Vette

 

Why not go to auto parts store and buy a stethoscope so you can pinpoint the knock area exact and be done with it?
Should be easy since you say it does it in park. $20

 

engine woes

Man, is this a case for my engine test stand. Engine can be ran before installiation,if problems are found it is a lot eaiser to repair.Interested parties reply to this message for info.Jerry Kelley :thumbup:

 

Why not go to auto parts store and buy a stethoscope so you can pinpoint the knock area exact and be done with it?
Should be easy since you say it does it in park. $20

Did that sounds like it's coming from the bottom end of the motor. If you listen around the oil pan it's pretty loud.

Man, is this a case for my engine test stand. Engine can be ran before installiation,if problems are found it is a lot eaiser to repair.Interested parties reply to this message for info.Jerry Kelley

It was ran on a test stand the second time. They ran it open header which does make much since to me. You can't hear anything with open headers.

 

383 knock

Is the engine still in the truck, or the next time that it is you should run the engine with it separated from the trans (have the trans bell housing bolted to the block but not the flex plate bolted to the torque converter) and see if the knock returns if it does its all engine problem. I would agree that if it was trans related it should (and most always do) trash the front pump and or the torque converter. Sounds like your machine shop is covering there own but by rebuilding it again. Hope everything works out fine and please post the known repair. good luck Steve

 

I'll give that a try. The motor is out right now. He's going to build a new one.

 

Make sure the rods aren't hitting the oil pan near the front of the oil pan. I lifted a engine to put mounts on it and just slightly dented the front of the pan and I had a knock from the rods hitting the pan. Its unlikely in your case but its all I can think of that these guys haven't already said.

 

I talked to the builder today and he said he thought he seen a spot on one of rod where it was hitting something. I hope that's it. He also said the lifter looked a little funny, but the cam looked good. I looked at the cam and didn't see anything wrong with it.