Don't worry about the bottom end of your 454. I build many 489-496 motors with 2-bolt block, cast cranks. They live well. If you must worry, just use studs for main retention.

The closed oval ports will work well on a flat top, hydraulic cam street engine. Up to about 6000 rpm.

Get some frame mounts for a 66-72 Chevelle (e-bay or chevelle parts dealer) along with matching engine mounts and the BBC will bolt into the Pontiac frame. BBC early oil pan and chevelle headers also fit. Rear crossmember depends on trans used.

 

I would be doing a little more research before bolting on a set of closed chamber heads if it were me.If it is really 9.5-10.0:1 compression,using the closed chamber ones could give you too much of an increase in compression,and put you into detonation terrirtory.Heres a link to Mortec,which may help you a little bit;
http://www.mortec.com/bbc.htm
Guy

 

Thanks...

I believe the compression is a bit higher due to the block being decked and the heads being shaved. I have a rebuilt Muncie M-20 a guy wants to trade me a set of open chamber rect port heads and an intake that are matched. I have just heard that oval ports are better for the street. This isn't a race car. I was thinking of maybe trading for some Roller Rockers. What size/ratio should I look at finding? I am not going to tear into it yet as it is a running motor.

 

Your first problem....is that Cam...

...you don't know what the Cam is there for you don't know what it will do power wise....if you have an automatic, it would be kind of useful to know where your cam will make it's power...

Do you have an RV automatic transmission and torque converter?

Second, a .030 over block? shaved heads? decked block? I wouldn't have purchased this engine...sounds like someone put lots of money into machining an engine into something to realize a problem...and unloaded it....however...how the hell would I know?

Mistery cam?....thinking about larger rocker ratios?.....I just don't get a good feeling about this combination.....putting holes in pistons is expensive......Rockers can be changed with the engine in the car, but if you use those heads, block, and you don't know what kind of lift you are getting, your treading on thin ice.....litterally....cracked piston....and/or bent valves...etc......

What do you know about the crank and connecting rods? i.e. stroke? Factory or after market? Pistons?

Every rotating part needs to work well together....one can't just cut some metal off and engine and expect it all to work well...

I've seen shaved heads leak because they cracked....lack of rigidity...I've seen pistons hit valves running that they didn't hit on the bench.....

Using studs is a good idea any opportunity you can use them....especially if your going to hot rod this car......

Has this engine run yet? If not, have you tried manually turning the engine over with your head setup? Make sure your not going to have any valve clearence problems with your pistons....geometry get's a little funky when you start changing factory dimensions...

I suggest getting the engine running with what you have....keep it simple....make it run first.....if you bought this engine off someone, make sure you didn't get screwed.......i.e. water leaking into oil because of a shaved head, etc....or the intake doesn't line up quite right and the seals don't seal....

 

I suggest leaving the engine the way it originally was built to run...considering all the machining it went through to get to where it is...someone at one time knew where they started at with this engine...but once it changes hands....it becomes anyones guess....

...you don't know what the Cam is there for you don't know what it will do power wise....if you have an automatic, it would be kind of useful to know where your cam will make it's power...

Do you have an RV automatic transmission and torque converter?

Second, a .030 over block? shaved heads? decked block? I wouldn't have purchased this engine...sounds like someone put lots of money into machining an engine into something to realize a problem...and unloaded it....however...how the hell would I know?

Mistery cam?....thinking about larger rocker ratios?.....I just don't get a good feeling about this combination.....putting holes in pistons is expensive......Rockers can be changed with the engine in the car, but if you use those heads, block, and you don't know what kind of lift you are getting, your treading on thin ice.....litterally....cracked piston....and/or bent valves...etc......

What do you know about the crank and connecting rods? i.e. stroke? Factory or after market? Pistons?

Every rotating part needs to work well together....one can't just cut some metal off and engine and expect it all to work well...

I've seen shaved heads leak because they cracked....lack of rigidity...I've seen pistons hit valves running that they didn't hit on the bench.....

Using studs is a good idea any opportunity you can use them....especially if your going to hot rod this car......

Has this engine run yet? If not, have you tried manually turning the engine over with your head setup? Make sure your not going to have any valve clearence problems with your pistons....geometry get's a little funky when you start changing factory dimensions...

I suggest getting the engine running with what you have....keep it simple....make it run first.....if you bought this engine off someone, make sure you didn't get screwed.......i.e. water leaking into oil because of a shaved head, etc....or the intake doesn't line up quite right and the seals don't seal....

 

The motor...

The motor came out of pulling truck. Obviously it is built for torque more than anything. He had just had new valve seats installed before I got it. Yes I heard it run. It sounded good. Aftermarket forged pistons, stock 7/16 Rods, Cast Crank. It also has an edelbrock RPM Performer intake with a quadrajet that was rejetted to 850 CFM. HEI ignition with 8mm wires as well.

 

If you thinking about putting this engine in your car then it's obviously just a driver...I would leave the engine the way it is and enjoy it...

 

edelbrock RPM Performer intake with a quadrajet that was rejetted to 850 CFM. .

This is bogus information. You CANNOT make a carb flow more air just by changing the jets. The only way a carb can be made bigger involves porting(grinding) or machining to larger throttle plates.

This is one of those shade tree MYTHS that needs to die and I'm on a mission to kill it. :spank: It is one of my pet peeves.

 

This is bogus information. You CANNOT make a carb flow more air just by changing the jets. The only way a carb can be made bigger involves porting(grinding) or machining to larger throttle plates.

This is one of those shade tree MYTHS that needs to die and I'm on a mission to kill it. :spank: It is one of my pet peeves.

My Appologies... :thumbup:

It was taken to a shop and work was done to the carb and now it is an 850 CFM Carb.

 

Flat top pistons in a 454 isn't going to make much compression. Heads vary from 100 to 120cc (closed, semi open, open). So the compression will be 7.6 to 8.2:1 (depending on the heads), which is perfect for a "RV" type cam, stock converter, and stock gears (2.73 to 3.08).

drop it in, bolt on some headers, and go.

use zddp oil additive to keep the cam happy. www.zddplus.com