I'd disconnect the linkage at the black u-joint in the first picture with the wheels pointed straight ahead. Then rotate the steering wheel through full travel from full left to full right. Determine how many revolutions are required. Cut that number in half to determine the midpoint and leave the steering wheel there. Now reconnect the u-joint and you should be centered.

 

The right way to center the steering wheel is to adjust the tie rod ends to get the wheels pointed straight ahead when the steering box is at the midpoint of travel.

 

Point well taken, Joe. But, wouldn't it also depend somewhat on how far out things are? Perhaps both methods might be needed.

 

Steering wheel is centered perfectly. No problems there. The problem is the turning radius. If my wheels were straight forward at 12:00 and the rear at 6:00. Then I turn the wheel all the way to the right. Lets say they would point to the 13 minutes on the clock. If I turned them all the way to the left the wheels would point at say the 52 minute mark. The car does not turn to the left near as sharp as when turning to the right. Also. At 65 MPH it does travel down the HWY straight as an arrow. Bob70. That makes sense right? I think you got it.

 

So in that case, the steering linkage was not adjusted with the steering box in the center of travel. That's the first thing you need to do. Put the box at the center of travel and align the front wheels straight ahead at that point. This first problem has nothing to do with the Steer Clear unit or the steering shaft. The primary problem is between the actual steering box and the spindles. Fix that first. Once you have the wheels pointed straight ahead when the box is centered, THEN you can see where the steering wheel is pointed and either move the wheel on the shaft splines or the u-joint on the Steer Clear unit splines (if you can).

 

Your reference to that being the steering box is incorrect, it is just a column offset adapter. It isn't the actual steering gearbox.

This difference is turning radius from one side to the other has nothing to do with the steering column, the steering wheel orientation, the -U-joint connection, or the steering drop adapter....whomever set the steering box and tie rods ends up didn't center the steering arm travel on the box either during the build or at assembly. Either the tie rods lengths are adjusted wrong, or the steering arm on the box is was not installed on the correct spline alignment....or a steering box not intended for that chassis was poorly swapped and it's location has fubar'd the tie rod/center link/idler arm/steering arm relationship.

It may go down the road straight, sure....but the difference in turning radius tells the tale on what needs correction.

 

Guys, as always thank you for your help. I am always amazed at the knowledge on this site. Eric has been kind enough to help me on many occasions with a good out come. That being said please forgive me for being lost. I did not even know the name of this (Steer Clear) system. OK, might these two pictures be of any more help or no?

 

The pictures don't really matter. What matters is that the R&P needs to be in the center of it's travel when the wheels are straight ahead. The tie rods SHOULD be the same length at that point, but you have no idea if the rack is centered in the chassis or not (and "centered" means that the inboard tie rod ends are centered between the spindles when the rack is in the center of travel). If you center the rack and the two tie rods need to be very different to get the wheels straight ahead, then there's a fundamental problem with the location of the rack in the chassis.

 

Hard to say anything from just pictures, but it appears that the entire rack is off center(could just be picture angle) as the driver side rack to mount bolt looks closer to the actual frame rail than the passenger side does.

Something to check, as mentioned by Joe, is that rack location in the chassis.

If the rack is the correct width, the inner tie rod pivot points should also be in the same plane as the lower A-arm to frame attachment bolts, as far as side-to-side width.

I hope you haven't been stuck with a deal where the builder offset the rack just to make the steering shaft clear easier, not realizing what he did to mess up the steering as a result.

 

The location of the rack mounting bolts may or may not indicate anything, since on many racks the mounting bolts are not symmetric. That's why I noted that the inner tie rod pivot points are what need to be centered when the rack is in the middle of it's travel.

 

They make offset bushings if you need to move the rack. https://www.summitracing.com/search...art-type/rack-and-pinion-bushings/make/ford/model/mustang-ii/offset-bushing/yes

 

I'm with Joe. Disconnect the steering shaft linkage, center the steering wheel in the travel, (unless it just turns and turns on the Steer-Clear then just set the steering wheel straight and centered between the turn signal cancelling bumps), center the rack with both tie-rods the same length, reconnect the steering linkage and make any adjustments to the tie rods to set toe-in. The adjustments should be minor and basically equal both sides. If they are not, then there is likely a miss-installation of the rack, dissimilar length tie rods, bent steering arms, or a combination thereof.

If all that is correct and it still turns sharper one way than the other, check to see what is stopping the spindle from turning more. Is the caliper hitting something, or the brake hose fitting?

It appears in the photos that there is a spacer between the outer tie rod jam nut and the outer tie rod. That is unusual and possibly a bit concerning in regards to the overall geometry of the suspension system.

 

I was going to say to check lock to lock for binding of the spindles but aosborn did. Anyway, I'd check that first since it's much easier!