With high compression, I think they would do OK on the street. And save you about 100 pounds of front end weight. And look cool. And for that price, not a terrible investment.

 

you will need to check the flow on those heads? The exhaust side flow on some rat heads are poor compared to the intake side.The cam would need a lot more duration on the exhaust side,,,
you do not need 12:1 cr but if you can afford the fuel then go for it

 

i am going to look at the heads on Thursday and will get casting #s and a few pics, the price is for the pair, is there any particular areas on these heads that i should focus on as possible problem areas? scotty

 

If run on a boat engine in salt water, look for severe thinning of the metal in coolant areas... cracking between valves... stripped out bolt threads in holes...

 

AND sunken valve seats

 

well i finally have a few pics of the heads, the casting # 111579, and below it there is a #946 that has been stamped into casting and not very easy to see, on the end is the word GALLI, as you can see it has the chevy bowtie on one end ex port and the snowflake on the other, they have 2.250 in and 1.88 ex valves with 1.650 outside diam triple springs and a installed height of approx 1.950, i can not find anything on the web or in the chevy hp books, the heads are mine for 900.00 canadian for the pair, does anyone recognize these heads, thanks in advance

 

Looks like it may be the First Design Bowtie Rectangular Race head.

Several of the features match what it listed for the current version, looks like it has +.100" raised intake ports, +.750" raised exhaust ports, the bosses for the two additional head bolts(the plugged holes in the bottom of the two intake ports), and the raised bosses for longer head bolts on the exhaust side of the head.

Is there any evidence of a vane on the port floor/short side radius of the exhaust ports??

If it matches all this, it is a full race head, you'll need custom headers for whatever you put it in and the specific intake manifold to fit it. Springs sound like they are for a solid roller cam.

Might be a good bit more head than you want to deal with on a street or street/strip car, unless you are a serious player. From the shape of that port opening they look a good bit bigger than 320cc intake port, looks closer to 360 or 380cc to me.

Take a look at Bowtie Race head PN #12363425 specifications, they more or less match what your showing, just the latest version has a slightly different looking casting. 380cc intake port, no heat riser port in the center.

 

thanks Eric for the info, i did a quick cc on intake ports, average is about 380,
combustion chambers approx 118, there is no vane on the ex port floor, so since i am not in a big hurry to get the engine together and am in the process of getting parts together what would you suggest i need to make these heads work for me, i already decided on min 12.1 or higher comp, should i ditch the 468 and go bigger since i have to buy new rods and pistons, possibly a crank, i only have a 2 bolt block so i will for sure have to get better fasteners and such,
this is my first big block build so i will spend the extra money on parts, i will build my cars drive line to match the engine, scotty

 

Here are some casting numbers for big block aluminum heads with rectangular ports with 2.19 intake and 1.88 exhaust. They are open chamber, 118 cc, 325 intake ports. 3946074, 3994025, 3994026, 14096188, 6272990. These are some good oval port iron heads with some work 336781, 353049, 3993820. Come stock with 2.06 intake and 1.72 exhaust.

 

thanks for the #s , i will be better off finding a pair that are more street friendly than these big port bowties, when offered to me for 1000.00 and
settled on 900.00 i was hoping that there was a way to make them a little more street able , finding decent used bb performance parts around here
for a good price is no easy task, thanks

 

thanks for the #s , i will be better off finding a pair that are more street friendly than these big port bowties

This is what I was going to post,,,the heads are way bigger than you are looking for and would need a VERY serious 8500 RPM 540" BBC or more likely something in the 565/582/588" or bigger territory. They are heads capable of 1000 hp naturally aspirated but need a big engine to shine.

They would make a real dog out of any BBC built on a stock 4.250" production block, even bored and stroked to 505" you won't be able to rev the engine high enough to make the heads really work, they would be a dog below 5000 rpm, need a 6000+ rpm stall converter and REALLY deep rear end gears.

All the head casting numbers CDMinter posted are for IRON heads , not aluminum. Except for the 074's, and they are fairly rare being L-88/ZL-1 heads.

You'd be better off just buying a mild or medium size set of aftermarket aluminum heads than to spend money buying old stock castings and then spending money on rebuilding and upgrading them, the new parts to go in them, and the porting they will need to be worth using.

The ProComp/SpeedMaster, Flo-Tek(Speedway Motors), Assault(KMJ on Ebay), ProMaxx and similar import castings are decent, not junk,,,just buy bare heads and then get the assembly parts from a trusted source so you get quality valves and such(the complete assembly's from SpeedMaster/ProComp had rather poor quality valves, springs and retainers but I haven't looked at a pair in a year or so, they may be better but I personally can't say and I know Competition Prod's has good stuff).....Competition Products in Wisconsin is one good lower cost source for those parts, they have assembly kits....and have your local shop fit-up and assemble them for you and you'll have a decent set of heads to work with. You can get oval port or rectangular port in several port CC and valve sizes.
The Promaxx may actually be good enough to buy complete, but I have no experience with them. Their company name used to be Patriot.

If you want better, there is ProFiler, RHS, Brodix, Canfield, Dart, and AFR as all American made. I would skip Edelbrock, I'd rather have the decent imports than those, personally. Edel's are over-priced for the quality and airflow they have.

 

I am going to go against the grain here...........Lets think back to the original, going to build a 12-12.5 to 1 BBC in the 454ci range.........I would use those heads in a heartbeat with the knowledge that it is going to cost me to support them! And build around the heads flow and chamber with complimentary components, knowing that what I was going to put it in needs to be built around that powerplant.

 

so glad i asked before leaped, just the price of custom headers alone is a large expense that i was not counting on, and having to drive around in 2nd or third gear just to keep the revs up sure would not be fun at all, i better play it safe and look for a set that will be more beneficial .

 

Your best bet is to ditch the 12-1 engine idea on a street cruiser.

Build a good stock bottom end. Get some oval port aluminum heads. Get some 10-10.5-1 pistons to match the chambers. Make the quench approx. .040. Stick around the 230-235 @.050 mark ROLLER cam with .around .575 lift. Run a good 2 plane mani. a 780 cfm carb, good set of full length 2" headers, MSD 8360 dist. tune it crisp and go have some fun!!!