Usually on most edelbrock carbs the part number is listed on the passenger side corner base plate bolt location and you will see digits like 1406 for an example at least that is where there on there performer carbs. On the AVS ones or the newer AVS 2 styles I don't know if they put it in the same spot or not. Look for some numbers on the front of the carb and maybe post some more photos of the front of it.

 

Yea, I looked all over this thing again, no numbers to be found....
Decided on a new Holley, or Quick Fuel....

 

go with a quick fuel brawler carb over an of the holley brand ones as it will have way more tuning ability and the quality is better on the quick fuel carbs vs the holley brand ones. Over the last few years all the holley brand name carbs I have gotten all of it was good quality except the boosters were so loose on some of the main bodies I had to rip them out and buy a kit from all carbs which sells holley carburetor parts more then anything else along with new and restored carburetors and install screw in boosters to replace the loose ones.

All the quick fuel carburetors I have gotten the whole carb has been excellent quality and they have more tuning ability mostly in the metering blocks and that is a whole post to really fine tune those carbs for just about any build you have. Be careful between going between a double pumper vs a vacuum secondary as the vacuum secondary carb is more forgiving on a street motor vs a double pumper. A vacuum secondary can be made to tune a lot easier on a broader spectrum vs a double pumper which is a little more picky on the secondary side of thing mostly on stabbing it and the quick acceleration wide open throttle deal more then anything else.

Fuel mileage can be identical between the two if tuned right unless you keep hitting the gas pedal over and over again making the secondary shooters on the double pumper keep pumping fuel in the constant opening of the secondaries. What is your build and purpose of it along with vehicle and transmission type and rear gearing etc. Maybe we can help you with some suggestions.

Edelbrock are still nice carbs but for all out performance I like the holley better as certain points on the carb can be tuned a little bit better vs the Edelbrock but in some other areas the Edelbrock is better as with all carb designs there are some things that some do better then others to a certain extent.

 

I just ordered this!!!

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/brawler/diecast/parts/BR-67255

 

You need this Summit Racing® Dual Feed Fuel Lines SUM-220106BN-B

 

Excellent choice. I just hope you have the right rear gears and engine build to pick up quick rpms or you will have a hard time getting the secondary to not cause a bog as they are picky about what they are on. They can be used on more then what most information is out there such as needing a manual transmission and a 3000 plus stall converter which is not all true.

They like quick rpms if you kick the secondaries open quickly such as a 3/4 to a full open throttle launch on your vehicle but they can be tuned very well with time and patience and work well even for a daily driver its just in the foot to some extent on how well it will work for you. The secondary side pump shot and pump cam will need to be well tuned to not bog and its a lot more tricky then doing it on the primary side. Be prepared that its a four corner idle and its a whole other beast compared to an edelbrock carb to get one setup to work good all the way around and get the fine tune your build needs.

Just what exactly are you putting this on etc? I had one but sold it as I needed some money for other things since I had a bunch of spares anyways. Quick fuel carbs are the bomb.

 

Very good questions and comments by Eric. Gotta have a light right foot with a mech secondary carb on the street, especially with tall gearing and auto trans.

 

I have no idea what I have for motor, seller told me rebuilt 350, with thumper cam......currently turbo 350 trans, but eventually when I get to figuring out where I can install clutch pedal, will have muncie 4 speed....rear end? Maybe I can tell by spinning the wheel/driveshaft and count rpms?

 

Well if you got a 350 with a thumper cam then your going to have some headaches to get this thing tuned and hopefully you have heads that flow good enough and also some decent compression and hopefully you have a good timing curve on your distributor cause those thumper cams are made with a lot of overlap and a very tight lobe separation angle which gives it that rump rump sound but the rump rump cool sound is actually something that is not good as its a process of insufficient combustion at idle and a bunch of other stuff which I can't totally explain and bore you to death.

The thing with high overlap cams is they create a lot of exhaust reversion cause of high amount of overlap and thus because of that the carburetor signal is worse with also the engine having way less vacuum and that makes the idle mixture needing to be a lot richer in order for it to run and also they have to have a higher idle to run and that creates a lot more tuning adjustments and also needing to re calibrate the idle circuit on the carb most of the time as out of the box its usually not good enough especially with bigger cams like these and also you will need to run a lot of initial timing so it will run right or you will be chasing your tail trying to get your carb to idle and your engine to run.

I have dealt with stock to wild cams and I once had the big mother thumper hydraulic roller cam and it was a beast to get running on the street and hopefully you at least have the smallest one as the bigger ones are a nightmare as they are more for sound then performance for the best results but they still can make some power with the right combos but are not the best cam out there for the best performance for a street cam but they still can be made to work but you will suffer with a lot of not so very good street manors. But that opinion on what is good and bad street manors differs among the fellow hot rodders.

Once you get your carb I am sure you will post and want and most likely will need to be given some help and guidance on how to get this beast running and tuned right. I will be glad to help you out as best as I can and have dealt with many of the big cams and got the tunes good so there is no bogs and junk but I just hope you have a decent distributor and ignition system cause that has to be in good condition first and also your timing will have to get recurved to run with this cam. As far as knowing your rear gear ratio you can sometimes get an idea if you have a tachometer and know what your rpm is at 55 mph and measure your tire height and you can then go on an online rpm calculator and type in some different gear ratios and get a ballpark idea on what you have.

The only true way to know what you have is you have to count the ring gear and the pinion gear teeth count and you do a formula to get the exact number but below is a video on how you can get a rough estimate.

 

You might want to get a holley book on tuning a holley carb and familiar yourself with how they work and also how to tune them and please what ever you do don't get frustrated and give up as from your previous posts you seem to not know much about tuning or understanding a carb and are new but this will be a learning experience and can be frustrating when starting out and you might think the carb is junk or bad and then end up getting rid of it or hate that particular style and trust me I have been there before and hated certain carbs for years cause I did not take the time to educate myself on how a carburetor needs to be setup and also how the timing is very critical and so many other things.

We all have to start somewhere and I will do as much as possible to help you along and even if I have to make a youtube video to help you with a carburetor 101 and get you going I will do so. That quick fuel carb is a very nice piece and it can be tuned to run good with time and some trial and error. I have a ton of experience with them.

 

The car WAS running ok with the crappy edelbrock, just switching out because of the varnish in it....I just looked inside filler neck and tank looks spotless.
However it's my plan to eliminate the under trunk sticking out the back end tank, and replace with cell in trunk.
I'm starting another thread asking if there's a replacement panel for a 33 Ford, to fill in the gap in rear...
By the way, I wont give up.....lol
Thanks for your input!

 

Once it comes time for your to tune it just make a new post and if I should miss it just send me a private message and let me know about it and I will help you out and I am sure others will as well and get you going.