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Cfm Required for Cooling?

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26K views 11 replies 3 participants last post by  Classix_Lover  
#1 ·
Hey everyone, what cfm does a fan setup need to pull in order to cool a big block? I have heard around 4000 cfm, some have said around 5000 cfm. I'm currently running a custom dual fan setup that supposidly pulls 4000 cfm through a 27" x 19" griffon radiator. Will I need higher cfms to keep this monster 454 cool or maybe a larger radiator? What size would you recommend if I do need to replace it and is there such a thing as going too big?
 
#2 ·
Is that 27x19 core size or tank to tank?

Core size might be a tad small but tank to tank would be way small. Even if it were a four tube design. With a smaller rad, CFM has to go up to maintain cooling. I would get a 5000cfm.

I would look at getting a 31x19 tank to tank. If you have room, you can't get too many square inches but you can easily get to thick. Or the fin count is to tight. Both thickness and fin count control pressure drop across the core. To much pressure drop, or air stacking up in front of the rad, will cause overheating. You could keep you current fan system with a 31X19.
 
#3 ·
Yea, that measurement's tank to tank, I think the actual core is only 15 x 25. If I do step up to that suggested size, I'm definately going to have to grab the sawzall to make it work ;) and relocate the battery box, just alot of things that will get in the way. What radiator would you recommend for this? I was thinking another griffon but they're so expennnsivvvee but I don't think I can really find anything for cheaper.
 
#4 ·
A stock mechanical fan is hard to beat. Anyway you can use the stock fan and fan clutch setup?

On my 454 BBC, I'm using a 31x19 alum. summit racing radiator (179.95), a 17 fan with stock fan clutch, and a home made fan shroud made from 1/8" alum. The engine runs cool with AC on during 100 degree days idleing in the sun. Note: no trans cooler in the summit rad.

I tried a 3000 cfm electric fan setup and it didn't work.
 
#5 ·
Yea, that's the only bad thing by switching from a belt driven fan(definately can't beat that with a shroud setup) is that you have to have some crazy cfm rating to more than make up for it. I wanted to swap out the belt driven one I had so I could free up some hp at higher speeds and also cool better at idle. If I do swap out the radiator for another 4 core, 3 inch width 31 x 19 one, then I'll be able to get closer to 5000 cfm as well as the larger radiator which will help :thumbup: (hopefully).
 
#8 · (Edited)
Wow, they do make radiators fairly cheap. Thanks :thumbup: , this one I found has everything I need except I don't know if it's width is 3 inches and I doubt it has a built in tranny cooler. Those are the only two things missing. Could you happen to find one with the exact specs I need :p ? Also, what does it mean by having a built in heat exchanger?

http://www.randys-racemart.com/31alpera.html
(another site but not sure which to get) http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getsubclasses.cfm?ClassID=70&CategoryID=6
 
#9 ·
"Heat exchanger" That's technical for fluid cooler. Circle trackers don't run coolers but they may run an oil ccoler through the radiator or possible a rear end cooler. I'm not sure about your fittings though. You may have to get some AN type fittings to mate with your existing lines.
 
#10 ·
AN fittings? Oh and assuming I don't find/want one with a built in tranny cooler and I have to run an external one (more area for cooling so that's good w/o cooler built in), how hard would it be to replace the lines with some steel braided one's that are longer since they have to run to the front of the radiator and if it says 16 fins per sq. in., does that mean it will automatically be 3 inches wide?
 
#11 ·
Classix_Lover said:
AN fittings? Oh and assuming I don't find/want one with a built in tranny cooler and I have to run an external one (more area for cooling so that's good w/o cooler built in), how hard would it be to replace the lines with some steel braided one's that are longer since they have to run to the front of the radiator and if it says 16 fins per sq. in., does that mean it will automatically be 3 inches wide?
Steel braided lines are just fine. You'll need two fitting's at the tranny, two lines and two fitting's at the cooler.

No, 16/per inch doesn't designate thickness but there are generality's. Most are listed by core, whether it be 1, 2, 3, 4, 1" tubes or 1 thru 4 1/2" inch tubes. Normally, more tubes that are smaller are better then bigger tubes and less of em. 2, 1 inch tubes are about 2 1/2" thick while 4, 1/2 inch tubes are closer to 3". You have to add some space between the tubes.

14 to 16 is all you need for the street. If your using a electric fan, I'd stay with 14 if possible. Check your PM's.
 
#12 ·
Aight, that's some good advice for the radiators. I've been looking into a couple sites for the cheapest AFCO radiator and I've come across a few that were almost/exactly $185.95. They are pretty much what I wanted in the ideal radiator I'm looking for where the core is basically almost as large as the entire width/height of the radiator. The one I found is a GM 31 x 19 racing radiator which is 3" thick and the actual core is about 2 1/4" thick w/ two aluminum hoses that are a little over an inch in dia. Here's the site in case any of you want to take a look at it.

http://www.secureperformanceorder.com/afcostore/getsubclasses.cfm?ClassID=70&CategoryID=6

Only thing that it's missing are the mounting brackets (another 60 dollars tacked onto the price for them to weld it on, grrrrrr). I would tig weld brackets on but I'd rather have them mess up them me messing up and having to buy another one :p . I couldn't seem to find any radiators with 4, 1/2" tubes like you said so if you could help me out, that'd be awesome and also, what is the difference b/t the racing GM radiator that's 185.95 and the GM radiator that is basically the same measurements that is over 300 bucks? Any takers on that?