LS is expensive and requires a new wiring harness and computers to be installed.

LS is out of the question...for now.

 

5.3 or 5.7 vortec seems easier...I think.

Would I also need a 4l60 or 4l80 tranny ? How hard is that install on a Gbody Monte Carlo ?

Would these engine and tranny setups go good with the 2.43 gear ratio I have or should I consider swapping/rebuilding my rear gear ratio ?

 

If the Vortec is too complicated to install, what Gen 1 SBC (350, 355, 383, 400), transmission, and modifications can be done to it to achieve the power and torque of a Vortec or LS engine ?

 

none of it is complicated to install in a G-body.

if you want to run an LS carbureted, then get a switch box for the ignition and get a carb intake. however you dont want it computerized......

since you want to keep the HEI dizzy. that that limits you to an SBC or BBC

get a better rear ratio than 2.43. even the 3.08 ratio will be hundreds of times better. especially if you want to do burnouts. I personally would run a 3.42:1 in that tank of a car

if it was me, get a 1996 or later 5.7 liter from a truck. slap in a 284HR cam, do a port job on the vortec heads, get a good intake, and drop in a T56 behind it with a set of 3.42 gears. significant upgrade from the 305 smog motor, and all your accessories from the motor bolt on. most of this can be done in a week

 

Personally, I would LS swap it. A 4.8L with cable throttle is in the neighborhood of $500 complete and that will make 300hp.

the rusty truck selection is coming up in years so good LS are cheaper than SBC these days. I could get an engine at a u pull it for $200 on sale day. A Holley Terminator X is the easiest way to run an LS and for $900. Yes computerized, but it opens up the options of boost and power adders. You could slap some EBay turbos on it and make 600hp without thinking about it. Once you start spending money to carb an LS it stops making sense except for specific reasons. The cost of a port fuel injection kit for a SBC is about $2000. So the LS is a screaming deal for cheap HP

 

I find the LS and GM’s classic wire, wire everywhere to be an eye sore, Converted to a carb or self learning EFI with a distributor conversion or stand alone ignition computer for the coil on plugs is cleaner looking but either a pricy mod for someone on a budget.

The classic Gen 1 SBC is undoubtedly the most affordable and allows you to grow changes as funds are available while still using the thing instead of needing most, if not all, of the funding up front to get it installed, up and running.

The later model L31 Vortec is an an easy replacement for your 305. Whether you buy a used one to rebuild or a new crate. These are easy to modify for a back dated install. To start with it bolts to your engine mounts and transmission. The tranny takes a flexplate change to bolt to the one piece seal crank flange of the L31. The Vortec comes with a mild roller cam, this is easily modified if desired there are a ton of OEM style roller cams out there and the engine already has roller lifters, the dog bone alignment bars, the spider that holds the dog bones in place, the taller lifter blocks to support the taller roller lifters, in the timing case is the cam thrust plate, and for anybody that’s been through setting up and maintaining a thrust button can tell you the thrust plate is miles ahead of the screwing around getting a thrust button set correctly, while these take a unique timing set because of the cam nose change for the thrust plate these can be inexpensive to expensive depending on the rot rod design you want and are readily available. The L31 Vortec back dates to a conventional distributor by just putting one in whether points or HEI, small cap or large if you have the space for the big cap. The Gen 3’s and up take an expensive modification to do this. The timing case if not using EFI is a simple swap to back date if you don’t want the plastic cover, at worst you might want to replace the higher positioned dowel pins with cap screws like the older blocks, this is just tap the holes. The crank in this case can use the older 8 inch pre Vortec damper. The mechanical fuel pump provisions can be completed if not already done so otherwise just use an electric pump. Headers for the Malibu with the 305 fit the Vortec 350. With Vortec heads you need an intake with that Fordish four bolts straight down pattern. The L31 head doesn’t have pushrod guides, they use self guiding rockers.

The nice thing about the L31 Vortec swap if done with a carb or even a self learning EFI is it’s all a screw driver and wrench job, no rocket science involved.

Bogie

 

Here's my suggested recipe:

• Good, running Vortec 350 from a pickup. Longblock is all you need. They can be often found for $250 and up. If you find a good complete engine, you can try to sell everything that isn't a longblock. Think $350-500.
• Call up some marine salvage yards. Volvo/Penta, OMC, and Mercruiser all did a few million carbureted Vortec 350s in boats. All of them had some form of carbed intake with the Vortec pattern. In fact, for a while, Volvo used the exact GM casting that was used on Vortec-equipped crate motors. Very capable intake, comparable to an Edelbrock Performer. Buy one and have them ship it.
• Add something close to the LT4 HOT cam
• Drop in HEI, slap on a Qjet, have fun.

I would suggest that you get a warranty in writing for the longblock. Junkyards don't really do "warranties" like WalMart, but they often will offer a 30-day something. That will give you time to get the heads off and have them magnafluxed to check for cracks. If they're cracked, work some deal with the seller to either get you un-cracked heads, or just have them refund you X dollars. At that point you could keep searching for non-cracked Vortec heads, or you could just order up some Jegs or Summit Vortec iron heads for about $900/pr.

You could go big dollar with aluminum heads, but to get heads that flow as well as the Vortecs, you'll spend a LOT more than that.

That combo would likely let you cruise with whatever transmission you already have. The added torque will make your stock stall a little higher to match the cam. Generally speaking, more displacement means more (and flatter-curved) torque, which generally means you need fewer gear ratios. Where you get into the need for more ratios is when you've limited your torque to a narrower peak. I ran a Caddy 500 with a powerglide 2-speed and put down low 12s and STILL had tire spin issues despite the fact that the powerglide's ratios are like a TH350 that lacks a first gear.

The one caveat to that is if your Monte Carlo currently has a THM200C in it. If you have that, it won't like the added torque. We'll cross that bridge when we burn it.

 

only caveat.....marine motors primarily used cast iron intakes from GM. most marine motors are raw water cooled, which means the manifolds and heads have long rusted. VP used some alloy manifolds from Buddy Barr which are 2-alloy castings (bronze water passages, aluminum body) even used, still about 3x the cost of a standard non-marine edelbrock (Edelbrock is also cast by Buddy Barr castings) just get the edelbrock. you can find them used for about $100 from people pulling their motors for an LS

 

Not sure where your information comes from, but I politely disagree. Most were not iron. In fact, I would venture to say that you'd have trouble finding an iron intake on a Vortec marine motor. I used to build marine motors for a living, and I never saw an iron Vortec marine intake.

They are usually raw water cooled, but with the bronze passages, it's a non-issue.

and when did they get to be 3x the cost? A used marine intake goes for $50-100 tops. That's less than 1/4 of what you would pay for a new Edelbrock.

 

Mercruiser certainly used iron intakes. I know because I have one in a 4.3 Vortec in a junk boat of mine

 

... on a 4.3L
I've probably had 80 5.0 and 5.7L vortec marine intakes in my hands, and zero were iron. I'm not saying they don't exist (you can buy them aftermarket in iron as well) but they're certainly not the norm.

 

Ilmore, indmar, PCMC and Volvo Penta used manifolds from Buddy Barr. Mercruiser used GM truck intakes from GM industrial division.

 

Swapping out my 305 in my '84 Monte Carlo.

What's worth it and within my setup means to make a bad ass street/strip ride ?

What is your budget for the engine and accessories (including exhaust, etc - not including trans, converter, or rear axle)? That will drive which way you must go. Used, rebuilt, rebuilt high performance, or best of everything.

 

Another vote for the 96-99 L31 Vortec.
Comp 276HR works very well in this motor. You probably won't even need to pull the heads unless you buy one with over 200k miles on it.
Get you a carburetor intake and an HEI Distributor and it is a direct swap.
Bonus points if you score it with the front accessories on it!

Here are just a few near Tulsa.
You can use your zip code to find yards closet to you.
Looks like there are still tons of them available.