OK, I'm going to start by saying I screwed up, I used a new gun and didn't pre-rinse with Lacquer thinner. So after masking and wiping car down with wax and grease remover by spraying it on the panel and drying with paper towels. I sprayed two coats of epoxy on the whole car. I am using Transtar 6401. I let it set about 28 hrs, scuffed it lightly (320)to try and knock some of the nibs and fisheye rings off. Then sprayed two coats of Evercoat Slick sand on the sides of the car. Some of the fisheyes came through the first coat of slick sand, but, the second coat covered them. My plan is to shoot the whole car with two coats of 2k primer. Jamb car, then final sand with 400 and lay base without sealer. The reason for not using sealer was I did not want to chance it getting into the fresh painted jambs. Would like some feedback on the best way to proceed. If I get the fisheyes covered with the 2k primer will they be a problem in the base/ clear? Can I use wax and grease remover on the epoxy, even if is still in the re-coat window? Would it be best to seal vehicle prior to base coating? This is not a show quality job, just a nice driver.
35prog
First thing is to never clean a gun using laquer thinner when using the new urethane or epoxy coatings..but you know that now.. 
Use reducer that is compatible with your products.. i would spot sand those areas and spot shoot the affected areas before proceeding...but that is just me..yes you can use a good W&G remover on epoxy or primer for that matter but make sure it has enough time to evaporate before shooting any more paint..once you have removed the fisheyes then go ahead as you have planned..
Sam
Use reducer that is compatible with your products.. i would spot sand those areas and spot shoot the affected areas before proceeding...but that is just me..yes you can use a good W&G remover on epoxy or primer for that matter but make sure it has enough time to evaporate before shooting any more paint..once you have removed the fisheyes then go ahead as you have planned..Sam
Nothing at all..just use a thinner that is compatible with the paint material one is using...laquer thinner in some urethane paint will cause fisheyes and lack of adhesion..and not all laquer thinner is made equal..BMM said:
Very fine point and a minor tech issue but one that can cause a lot of grief
Sam
From reading your post it sounds like you are NOT planing on blocking your slicksand before you spray your 2k primer????
You need to guide coat your slicksand and then block it, after you finish block sanding just use a bit of a quality 2 part glazing putty on any spots where the fisheyes created a tiny low spot (there may not be any after you are done blocking, slicksand has a lot of build to it). Then spray your 2k urethane primer (if you are not going to seal you should spray at least 3 good coats to avoid any sand throughs on your final blocking) and go from there.
You need to guide coat your slicksand and then block it, after you finish block sanding just use a bit of a quality 2 part glazing putty on any spots where the fisheyes created a tiny low spot (there may not be any after you are done blocking, slicksand has a lot of build to it). Then spray your 2k urethane primer (if you are not going to seal you should spray at least 3 good coats to avoid any sand throughs on your final blocking) and go from there.
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