Tall 3/8 sockets have a thinner wall, don't know if that will help. Could use a grade 8 allen head but then it might be just as hard to mess with when torquing. Might have to remove the spring, that's what I'd do.
Probably know this already sometimes taking the PITA route is a lot faster than searching around for an alternative. I learn the hard way it seems.

 

Not sure of the length, but maybe this :
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-656-4000/overview/

 

The assortment:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/...-hardware?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&N=4294920046+4294951442+4294950685

 

Could use the 12 point heads like suggested above.
Such as
McMaster-Carr

Or
McMaster-Carr
or
McMaster-Carr
Torx allows for a higher torque than hex (if needed)

If you really want a thin walled socket they have those too:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-sockets/=vlvbec

 

Thanks for the advise guys. I have called several local bolt specialty stores but it appears none are open today. I have waited this long, I can wait a little longer.

The idea to remove the spring at first seems like a good one, but knowing my luck I will drop the valve into the cylinder, or lose the keepers, or injure myself trying to get the spring & keepers off.

I'll wait till Monday and get the right bolts. Thanks again for the fast responses!

You guys rock!

 

Can you grind down a cheap black oxide impact socket to fit?

 

I have one of those lever type valve spring compressors,goes over the rocker stud put a nut on that an push it "PUSH IT REAL GOOD" am about sick of that commercial. Magnet to remove keepers, springs off. I believe if you have flat top pistons all you have to do is get that piston to the top of it travel an if I'm not wrong the valves will rest on top of the piston. Dished pistons, you can't do that. If you have one of those do-la-leys that are bolted inside the crank pulley you can turn the engine over by hand with a 1/2 breaker bar.

 

Why not follow AFR recommendations across the board and do it right? No hardware store head bolts or grinding of sockets.

Here is the recommended components for AFR195's. This can be found on the AFR web site. Note the head bolts are ARP 12 Point that come with washers. You do not need the Manley washers if you buy them. Make sure you use the supplied lubricant under the bolt heads and washers. Note the 1003 head gaskets are the hi performance hi-tech FelPro ones requiring the center lower water passage. This matches up with a port in the AFR heads so I figure it needs to be there and functional. I had to drill my block (70's didn't have the hole) to match the head gasket (it comes with the instructions stating the need to do so). Note the recommended exhaust gaskets will not work with some small tube headers (ports in heads are too big and they leak at the corners).

Good luck. You're going to like your AFR heads. Which ones did you select?

Recommended Components:
Intake Gasket 1.280x2.090 w/ 3/8" radius, Fel-Pro #1205
Important: Do not port match your intake manifold to Fel-Pro gasket as it does not precisely fit AFR heads.
AFR #6834 Exhaust Port Gasket, Fel-Pro #1404
AFR #6800 Head Gasket, 350cid Fel-Pro #1003
AFR #6802 Head Gasket, 400cid Fel-Pro #1014
AFR #6310 SB Chevy Head Bolt Kit, ARP #134-3701
AFR #6320 Head Bolt Washers, Manley
Autolite 3924 Spark Plug Starting Range

 

Hardware store or Industrial Supply bolts are not a good choice, as head bolts are not simply "grade 8" bolts they are specific alloys and heat treated in specific ways to get a bolt with a specific amount of stretch to put specific tension on parts at a specified torque value....never use non-automotive bolts in critical locations like head bolts, main bolts, oil pump bolt, rod bolts.

The ARP head bolts, in either 6-point head or 12-point head take a 1/2" socket...and this is the type of bolt most Aluminum head manufacturers are assuming you are going to be using....not the stock bolts with their big 5/8" heads.

A good low cost alternative is the common Vortec head bolt, along with a hardened washer...you have to use washers on alum heads to prevent under-head galling of the bolt giving a false torque reading.

Chev SB Bolts #HB8201, Hardened washers # 8405. You're set for under $35

I use them on virtually every SBC I put together except daily driver used stuff, or the engine owner just "has to have" ARP bolts or studs.

 

Wow, that pretty dam specific.

 

Dang! Man, I post a question here and the knowledge hits like a freight train!

Thanks guys! I will go on-line and order the correct head bolts for the heads. I already knew I needed washers for under the head bolts & I already have them here. They are specifically for aluminum heads & SBC. I got them from Summit racing.

I was not aware of the extra water passage. I'm running the Fel-pro 1094's (which Tech Inspector specifically says are NOT to be used with aluminum heads! Hopefully he is not reading this).

I will check the head gaskets, and the heads, for the extra water passage and will make corrections as necessary.

To the guy above that asked what heads I have, they are the 190's.

 

190s would be Vortec heads they take the same bolts and head gasket I listed before. Listen to Tech Inspector the wrong head gaskets can damage your aluminum heads, Since you already have the washers, the inexpensive route is the Vortec head bolts like EricNova72 says. Good luck!

 

Enginezar, thanks for that. I just got the heads back from the machine shop as they were changing out the springs for me. They did surface them while they had them so they are perfectly flat.

 

Yep, I have the same deal with my AFR 227 on our 400 SBC motor in our Sprint Car.
I put a Craftsman 12 pt. deep well socket in my lathe and turned about 2" of the outside down so it would fit. It really makes for a thin wall socket but it works great. We use studs though, not bolts.

 

Had a similar issue with my ARP head bolts, but I put a 3/8" adapter on my torque wrench, and used a thin wall 3/8" socket to get in and set the torque on them. Worked for me.

 

I use the vortec bolts and hardened washers to solve the problem, I also used the 1094 gaskets on my GMPP AL heads...they brinell the heads slightly but a 0.005" cut cleans them up when its time to rebuild...all the circle track racers use them for the added compression and they last under those conditions.

 

I got the Vortec head bolts today. They are in a Fel Pro Box. I had to buy 2 kits as they only come with enough bolts to do 1 head. I paid $32 total for both boxes, and the heads are torqued! Done deal! On to the next problem.. I tried to put my brand new Crane roller rockers on my rocker studs and realized the studs are 7/16" and my rockers are 3/8". No biggy, I ordered the correct studs. Anybody need a set of 7/16" studs?