What fuel are you running now? likely pump premium? You may be able to get by with a mild amount of boost (5psi or so) on pump premium (93) but it'd be pretty close. If I had your combo and wanted that power I'd be looking at dropping the compression and turbocharging it. It won't take a lot of boost to hit your goals- BUT it also wouldn't take much more to hit 1,000hp. You need to either look at a different fuel or lower compression though. Is E85 an alternative? 10psi or so on a good turbo system would put you over 1,000hp.

You could also supercharge it, or put a bigger cam in it and wind it up another 1500rpm to hit your hp goal (only boost could hit your tq goal on pump fuel). Of all the options the turbo places the least stress on the engine.

Whatever you decide it's not going to be cheap, probably 6-8K by the time you're all done if you want to do a really nice job of it.

 

I'm running 97 RON Fuel, is like 93 Fuel in USA, it's the better fuel i can get here.

what about NITROUS, i see this engine tunned by pat musi and edelbrock nitrous kit running like 1050hp, but i don't have any experience with nitrous

Edelbrock’s 555 Gets Nitrous’d & Dyno’d - StreetLegalTV.com

 

nitrous is cheaper.. thats the direction im heading eventually, but only becuase i dont have a turbo or sc budget. everyday drivability is obviously better with a turbo or a supercharger, but lets be honest man that beast makes almost 550 ft lbs at 2500 rpm. do you really NEED more on the bottom end?

you can get to your 850hp goal without having to do anything more than add a 100-150 shot plate kit and pull back the timing a hair when you juice it.

 

if you don't have a turbo budget then you DEFINITELY don't have a nitrous budget- unless you never plan on using it. nitrous is NOT free, nor is it a "long term" soution as those tanks run out pretty damn fast.

for an occasional 1/4 blast nitrous will work fine, but if you really want to "get on it" often you'll be filling tanks very regularly.

6K will buy a lot of nitrous, its just a royal pain in the *** to deal with. you install a turbo or supercharger and you're done.

 

I Want confiability, what turbo setup can get me to 1000hp and give me confiability, the engine use is hillclimbing on sand, with full load for 2 or 3minutes

 

nitrous won't come close to lasting 2-3 minutes, its duration is measured in seconds.

as for dependability your cooling and oiling system will be critical but any properly matched well made turbo will be dependable. 2-3 minutes at 1,000hp will be putting one hell of a lot of stress on all your parts though- the turbo will be the least of your worries.

 

i have dry sump so oiling wont be an issue, im dont know if the pro flo 2 injection will work, also what is better, single or dual turbos

 

Superchargers are the boost of choice on sand or hillclimbers, for good reasons.

 

more tolerant to sand entering the case and no issues with oil control being the two that come to my mind.

Both can be worked around with a well designed drain line and a good air filter though.

The only problem with superchargers is that they are so damn inefficient and they really load up the front of the crank.

 

What is the your operating temp of this engine?

Is this a dyno sheet Edelbrock sent to you with the engine did you have it dynoed after you received it ?

Operating temps look cold!! Crate engines dyno sheets (not graphs) are sent with crate engines and are averaged from a few that are tested on actual Dynos. They are spun cold on a machine with water and oil under pressure at warm temps to check for leaks not running to circulate oil and to give them a mild ring break in before shipping them then drain oil and ship them dry!
Was this engine dynoed after break in? with oil changed at proper running temperatures water, and oil?

The questions I ask are for me only! I am interested in your answers, Just curious :thumbup: Even if they sound trivial to you

Jester:thumbup:

 

Thanks for answer. I already own a 383 sbc supercharged and i dont like that where i run the engine is very hot ambient, and intake temperatures are very high, so i will like turbo or centrifugal SC.

the engine runs at 170-180°F, and i dont dyno it again.

 

I noticed the oil temp was 89 degr. F and water was 132 on the chart they sent you, that would have been a cold run and HP readings would be down,
Edelbrock offers:
"OPTIONAL CRATE ENGINE DYNO SERVICE AVAILABLE"
If you want your new individual "Edelbrock crate engine professionally dyno tested prior to taking delivery? Edelbrock now offers dyno service on all new crate engines." dyno service pricing on new crate engines Minimum $600.00

If you didn't have them Dyno it, Your data sheet, is just generic ( an average) and is sent with all those particular built engines You may have much more HP then you Think:thumbup:

Jester

 

N.A.? you need much better heads,bigger cam and CR to match.
boosted,lowre CR and much better heads

better bigger headers

 

I agree Vinnie especially bigger headers and a tuned length primary pipes !! Not just a cheep set! spend a little more.

Jester

 

He's not going to find 100hp+ with different headers.

 

How thick is your wallet?

Here's some interesting reading and food for thought, seems you can do more NA or lots more with a supercharger kit.

Video: Edelbrock/Musi 24-degree BBC Heads Dyno Tested - EngineLabs


MaxStreet’s Supercharged Musi/Edelbrock 800 HP+ 555ci Rebuild - EngineLabs

 

Headers

Here's a 50hp increase on a 540 just going to bigger tubes and collectors. From weenie sized shorties that offer virtually no scavenging to big long tubes with big long collectors the power increase would surely be greater. Food for thought.

Big Block Chevy Headers - Hooker Headers - Hot Rod Magazine Page 4

 

The dyno graph will be different on different dynos with different temps on different days or in different weather BUT he's looking for over a 100hp gain over his current combo, likely as seen in use, not on his piece of paper.

If you get everything perfect or even skewed for a one time miracle dyno run what does it prove? When it's back on the street in normal use as installed in his car you won't give two ****s about what it did under perfect conditions.

He wants an improvement, not a different piece of paper from a different dyno run.

Nitrous, rpm, boost, etc these are the proven ways to get a real significant power increase on an engine that is already performing pretty well. The usual heads/cam/compression/displacement/etc game has already been done on this engine.

 

He's not going to know what the HP is when driving it, that's what the dyno is for, to tune it for maximum performance. If a person has an engine tuned on a dyno for it's maximum performance and then changes it when driving it on the street, he needs shot. Besides, unless he can get it to hook up, it won't matter whether it's 300hp or 3000hp, it will be useless.

 

Thanks for all the answers, about a cylinder head swap, can i get more power with other heads?, which ones?

 

The heads you have are no where near extreme,sky is the limit.
you still have not chosen what type of build you want and how many ponies? They cost more when you get up there,for example' a 900 horse power,N.A. rat using a low deck set up with standard ports would cost around 17k all brand new parts.
1500 hp twin turbo probably 45k

 

I want to use my engine as base, i want to get 800-850hp NA, but i really want More TORQUE, i want to stay on the same range of RPM, i will also want to have open the possibility to turbo it in the future. So a CAM and HEAD swap can get me there?

the heads i have now is EDL-60555, Not the E-CNC

 

N.A. horse power comes with more breathing which translates to more RPM,the torque will follow and will peak at a higher RPM also.Thats why we have transmissions and differentials.
A safe pump gas build can net about 1.5 horse power per cubic inch so,
555 x 1.5= 860 hp
all the parts must match
so compression is correct for cam and valve timing and heads flow enough air to meet your goals
headers need to allow exhaust out.
example:
AFR 357 heads
cam 270 plusº duration icl/lda tbd
over 11:1 cr,,,tbd
big/long tube headers

 

It will be a challenge to reach 850 HP with the lower compression you'll need to boost the motor enough to make a difference in the future, especially if you're looking for 1,000 HP on pump gas. Your current c.r. at 10:1 is too high for your boosted 1,000 HP goal.

 

Here is my actual camshaft specs:

GRIND CHB283/292R114+2
DUR @ .050 283/292
LIFT .655/.663
LSA 114
INT C/L 112
LASH HOT .020/.020

I know 10:1 is high for turbo setup, but i'm looking to just change pistons to lower the CR when im ready to turbo it

 

drop CR "and" change the cam for a turbo. wouldnt hurt to put on better heads,with twin turbos you could go with big heads. Expect to spend 20k plus for a turbo conversion

 

If you're spending 20k to meet his power goals you seriously screwed up.

And the compression is borderline but will be fine on low boost.

No need for twin turbos.

No need for different heads.

I would change the cam, lower the compression if you want to run a substantial amount of boost and run a single turbo. Even with premium parts you're still going to end up at less than 10k and be over 1,000hp.

This **** is not that complicated. Your base package is a good foundation and you don't need to throw it away, add a few select parts and you'll make your power quite easily with boost.

You won't make 800ftlb NA on pump gas.

 

I do think a more practical answer is why tear into a build engine already if it is falling short of your expectations??. How much are you saving by in part using what you got?. Wouldn't be better to independently build another engine built to what you want and if need be sell the one you have??.

 

Please AP72 show a complete list of parts to accomplish this task? I know it can be done cheaper,but there is a hidden cost,reliability. You yourself may be a great fabricator,not sure the OP is? and a single turbo on a 555 inch engine?
note,the engine is under high load for a long time

 

A turbo will be about 2.5k for a really really nice model. Custom headers and fabrication of intake ducting is another 2-3k, pistons and rings will be about 1k, a cam will be $500, injectors for $500, that leaves 3k for any extra items, tuning, and flashy doodads.

To the OP, you cannot hit 800ftlb on pump fuel with a head and cam swap. Period.

 

:thumbup:I don't care anymore!! this thread has passed my questions by LOL and a silly answer like that shows me you never ran a dyno or know much about it !! Quote "dyno graph will be different on different dynos with different temps on different days or in different weather" Its a corrected run it says so on the sheet!!!! That means the same engine on corrected runs should be very close from reputable dyno to dyno corrected run! Where do you get your engines dynoed AP ?? You think Edelbrock dynos the test engines in their parking lot? Has he tuned this engine after the brake in, how many runs does he have on it?

I saw a really bad discrepancy in the data sheet he received and it drew my attention right away! Being a cold run all remaining data is useless because on a hot run everything would change. Do you base your opinions on your tuning changes and cam selections on a cold dyno run or a data sheet for a different engine? When a man posts a dyno graph or data sheet on his thread I read it and use it to evaluate my opinions!! If its a bad dyno run or another engines data sheet Its useless!!! If a guy builds an engine and looks around for a dyno data sheet of another engine close to the same build as his and posts that as his, its useless to me! It surprised me that I was the only one that saw it and when I mentioned it ,It was ignored and no one answered my questions LOL so I doubted myself! The main reason I doubted myself is because I gave some people on here respect for their knowledge! But I won't make that mistake again !!!

LOL this opinion LOL "If you get everything perfect or even skewed for a one time miracle dyno run what does it prove?" Your one I gave more credit then that Congratulations LOL Next time someone posts a Dyno graph I expect to see you tell them they wasted their money and its useless !

Jester