Depends on several things. Where is the radiator going to set. Measure your engine complete with fan and distrib (if rear distrib. Otherwise furthest point back). Allow about 1 1/2 inches clearance for the fan/radiator and about 1" for the distributor and there is the firewall.

Front of frame+front of radiator+radiator/grille thickness+ 1 1/2"+ complete engine+1"=Firewall!!

 

I feel you are kind of crazy to even start this frame if you don't have at least 75% of the major components on hand to measuer from. Front Axle, spring, steering linkage acrossed the axle, shock mounts, engine and accessories, radiator, grill shell, trans, rear axle, headers etc. You will end up redoing too much if you get ahead of yourself.

 

no need for the front axle to be present because it hangs off the front perch. I'v got a 350 I could use for mockup, just don't have the trans.. I'm going by T bucket frame dimensions, just will be a little longer to make up for it. I just need a perimiter frame for now, because I'm going to build the body on the frame, and I can build it to whatever fits the frame I build, but as long as I keep the width the same as a T bucket frame, everything will fit togther

 

You are going to start a project journal right? So we can watch your build. ....Cole

 

You are going to start a project journal right? So we can watch your build. ....Cole

yup, sure will

 

I want to say mine was 44'' from the front of the frame.. With a wheel base of 123''.. Hope this help's..

 

I want to say mine was 44'' from the front of the frame.. With a wheel base of 123''.. Hope this help's..

sure does, thanks.. should mine end up with a wheelbase in the 120" wheelbase range?.. I figured the 112" based on the 112" my Ford Ranger is, but it's not the best comparision

 

sure does, thanks.. should mine end up with a wheelbase in the 120" wheelbase range?.. I figured the 112" based on the 112" my Ford Ranger is, but it's not the best comparision

Mine was at 123'' in when the guy drove 17 hrs one way to pick it up,,We went for a ride... I set it at 60 mph. and let go of the wheel and just let the Truck drive it's self.. He said he could not believe how well the truck drove for be home made.. I am planning to build another one just like it, But with a 454 big block and this one will have fender's and running board's.. This will be my shop truck.. Hope to start it soon... :thumbup: I'm sure you will be Ok with less on the wheel base.. :thumbup:

 

cool. I can't wait to start it. sometime this week I'll go to the steel yard

 

the 32 i built was a 119" and ther was no room inside it was baged so i had do do a high kick in the back and your arm hung out the 2nd door back window and it was hell getting the steering right in the car and it also had suicide steering to fight with me

 

My cab was 56'' on the bottom,, From the fire wall to the back of the cab..It was 54'' wide at the widest port of the cab..I'm 6' 240 lbs..I fit great once inside.. A lot of room.. And if I did another one,, I wouldn't changes any measurement's on the cab... I may chop it a Little more.. :thumbup: At the bottom of the cab to the top of the roof at the front.. It was 40''..

 

The last car I built was a T roadster, 117" wheelbase. The stock T wheelbase was, I think, 102". I added 15" between the firewall and front spindle centerline to accomodate the longer motor (429/C6) and complete mechanical fan/shroud/radiator. In my opinion, on an early car, the vertical centerline of the radiator needs to cut right through the centerline of the front wheel in side view, so that was one of the major reasons to add the 15 inches. Measurement from firewall rearward was stock.

Methods used by us hotrodders are bass ackwards compared to professional builders of race cars. They place all components where they will work best and then connect them with a custom frame structure. We start with a frame structure, then try to place components where they will work best.

 

The last car I built was a T roadster, 117" wheelbase. The stock T wheelbase was, I think, 102". I added 15" between the firewall and front spindle centerline to accomodate the longer motor (429/C6) and complete mechanical fan/shroud/radiator. In my opinion, on an early car, the vertical centerline of the radiator needs to cut right through the centerline of the front wheel in side view, so that was one of the major reasons to add the 15 inches. Measurement from firewall rearward was stock.

Methods used by us hotrodders are bass ackwards compared to professional builders of race cars. They place all components where they will work best and then connect them with a custom frame structure. We start with a frame structure, then try to place components where they will work best.

Richard, You must have some pics of this roadster laying around somewhere, Would love to see it. ....Cole

 

I picked up some of the steel. local steel yard does not keep much in stock, so they are out of most anything till thursday, and special ordered the 2x3 tubing.. I got 2 sheets of 18ga cold rolled, but the rest of the order will be in thursday

 

Richard, You must have some pics of this roadster laying around somewhere, Would love to see it. ....Cole

Here are the only two surviving pics. Hundreds of pics of the project were lost in a move 3 years ago. Actually, I think my son threw them away because he was mad at me. The car was unfinished here, but was a roller with motor, trans and diff in place. The tubing showing at the bottom of the car was the foundation for the floor. The other shot is of the IFS that I designed and built from scratch. I didn't have the Aldan Eagle coilovers in place yet. The 429 looks lost in there.

Here's the verbage used on Classmates accompanying the first pic....
Although unfinished at this point, this is the result of several years of hard work part-time. I used a '68 Ford 429 motor and C6 transmission. Rear differential, wheels and brakes from 1975 Lincoln Mark V. 1928 Model A radiator shell. Mustang II power rack & pinion steering. Self-designed and built independent front suspension made from 1 1/8" chromoly tubing, Aldan Eagle coilovers. Frame made from scratch using 2" X 6" mild steel tubing. Bends were accomplished by sawing through 3 sides with a Sawzall, bending the tubing to bring the edges together, then welding. There were 16 cuts front to rear to bend it narrower at the front, then back to straight. Rear suspension is Ford Satchell-link triangulated 4-bar with Speedway coils set in homemade upper and lower mounts. Body was split down the middle and widened 8" to make the car more comfortable. You can see the width of the addition at the firewall. It was built on a 117" wheelbase so that nothing was cramped up. You can see the space between the front of the motor and the radiator. I left plenty of room for an engine-driven 18", 7-blade OEM fan, viscous drive and shroud so that there would be no cooling problems. A Walker copper/brass radiator was fitted. A 2-gallon Moon tank was planned in front of the radiator just for looks. Wheels are from the Mark V, a Cartier model. I used my friends Chevy pickup rear axle as a lathe to sand them with 80 grit and WD40 so they would look like a brand new set of full Moons, only concave instead of convex. I jacked up the rear diff on his pickup, bolted on the wheels one at a time and ran the motor at an idle in reverse to turn the wheels to sand them.

 

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ipod ready
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The dump truck will be here soon to get you.... :spank: :spank:

 

ashona must think I needed a DVD GPS Player in the roadster... Lots of spam from China lately.