I am using a painless harness for my 1950 chevy truck. I am installing a restomod a/c unit and a sniper 2. My question is I have a number of things that need an ignition switch power source, where would I get this power source from? should I use an available fuse on the painless fuse block our is there another way to wire these things in? I was thinking about utilizing a separate fuse block but how do I wire it for ignition switched power?
Sgmacaulay
Just piggy back off the ignition wire from the switch with stak-ons.. Google " piggyback stakon"
If the other things you want to power are the things that should be powered once you start the car then you use the accessory terminal. The terminal that you marked is the power supply to the switch, and it stays hot as long as the battery is connected to the system.
I also used a painless wiring harness and everything that I needed was described and shown in the installation manual. How many circuits does your kit accommodate?
You can save alot of fuses and wiring under the dash by using timed relays.
For intance i had one ride where I wanted a simple light switch.
I set the key on power to turn on a 10 second delay relay.
That main timed relay powered all my head and running lights all the time ie daytime running lights.
That timed relay went to a (fused) relay for the front markers, relay for the rear markers/taillights, relay for the high beams, relay for the low beams.
Turn signals had a front and rear fused relay.
Brake lights had a fused relay.
This let me run a simple 15 amp toggle on/off/on switch for the headlights and another one for the turn signals.
Furthermore when a fuse does go out you can simply pop the trunk and easily swap out a fuse on the fused relay.
No craming your ribs on the rocker.
The timed relay lets you start the car and the thing recover before the rest of your key power kicks on.
By using relays you can use simple switches for many things and avoid a issue where you can't find a replacement part.
For intance i had one ride where I wanted a simple light switch.
I set the key on power to turn on a 10 second delay relay.
That main timed relay powered all my head and running lights all the time ie daytime running lights.
That timed relay went to a (fused) relay for the front markers, relay for the rear markers/taillights, relay for the high beams, relay for the low beams.
Turn signals had a front and rear fused relay.
Brake lights had a fused relay.
This let me run a simple 15 amp toggle on/off/on switch for the headlights and another one for the turn signals.
Furthermore when a fuse does go out you can simply pop the trunk and easily swap out a fuse on the fused relay.
No craming your ribs on the rocker.
The timed relay lets you start the car and the thing recover before the rest of your key power kicks on.
By using relays you can use simple switches for many things and avoid a issue where you can't find a replacement part.
I would use #933 to power the ignition .Period.
I would use # 932 to run all the accessories.Period.
I would use 932 to energize a handful of relays to control/handle the power side of the circuits,so the old switch itself does not get overloaded,like HVAC, Fan , cooling fans etc. Radio/amp
You will also want to use the 932 curcuit for the # 1 wire on the alternator if running a 3 wire GM alternator, to avoid run on/feedback
Be sure to use relays that are diode suppressed to alleviate any flyback voltage that may occur. Most bosch style relays are now diode supressed
I would use # 932 to run all the accessories.Period.
I would use 932 to energize a handful of relays to control/handle the power side of the circuits,so the old switch itself does not get overloaded,like HVAC, Fan , cooling fans etc. Radio/amp
You will also want to use the 932 curcuit for the # 1 wire on the alternator if running a 3 wire GM alternator, to avoid run on/feedback
Be sure to use relays that are diode suppressed to alleviate any flyback voltage that may occur. Most bosch style relays are now diode supressed
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