Depending on what model you have,what your spraying and your air set up,it will varry. ALWAYS set the air flow WITH THE TRIGGER FULLY PULLED!!!!!
Check Iwatas site and do some simple searchs here.LOTS of information on all versions of the 400,

Iwata

 

Iwata LPH 400

Hello,
Thank you for your advice.
I do know about the trigger pull and air pressure.
I just want to know what the average fluid,air and fan settings are to start with.
I don't how many turns to turn the knobs to start.
Thanks

 

16 psig at the gun and with a GOOD regulator. I set mine mainly at the wall and with a good gauge that I remove to shoot at the gun.

Fluid control - start at 2.5 turns out

Fan control all the way open.

The adjust from there - I've shot as low as 10psig, but with reduced fluid and fan settings.


Wall control on my dryer:

Gun gauge - and with a much better/bigger dia. and lower pressure gauge then the 160# versions usually supplied :

This info is from lessons learned from the real experts on this board - and it works.

Dave W

 

I do the exact same as above with my Iwata,
except I raise the pressure a little more.
Usually around 20 PSI, I know that's a little high,
but it works for me.
With some base coats, a little higher than 20, maybe even 25
will keep it from striping or mottleing.
(that's a common problem with the Iwata's)
But I don't generally use mine for base, I get batter results with
my other gun for bases so my Iwata LPH400 is now only a clear gun for
me. imp:

 

If you plan on spraying base paint,You need to get the LVB or Purple aircap for the gun. It will spray base MUCH better than the LV,Silver cap, and at a lower psi.
The LV cap is excellent for single stage & clear and running the psi at 20-25 is a good start. Fluid will depend on your speed as well as tip size. Usually around 2 1/2-3 turns out and open on the fan & air knob at the bottom of the handle.
Now,
I've learned this the hard way with the psi/cfm on these guns.
Depending on your set up air wise,just setting it at the 16# "recommended" may not be enough. I got a test cap for mine and found that even though I have plenty of cfm,3/8 hose & fittings, was not getting enough due to using one of the bulb air filters AT the gun inlet. It was cutting my psi down by almost 5 psi. So I have to run around 20# to achieve the 10# @ the cap which is what the 16# inlet psi is "supposed" to give you.The only way to know if you have the 10@ the cap is with a test cap but their not cheap,so, if it's not spraying well,try upping the psi around 5# or so and try again.
I was not very pleased with spraying base and the LV cap,I got the LVB cap and it's awsome. No changes are required to the gun other than swapping out the aircap and it's a cheap investment for a better painting gun then swap back to the LV for your clear.
Oh,
One other thing,
These guns like to be CLOSE to the panel as in 4-5" which is a little weird at first if your used to 7-8" and it DOES make a difference in the pattern & coverage. Clear,you can back off some but up close & personal is where these guns like to be.

 

I have the other air cap too, and at a $100.00 for the cap,
I still can't get the gun to spray base as uniformly as my
Astro HVLP, which costs a lot less than that air cap alone.
I read on the Iwata forum regularly of others having the same problem,
I'm not saying it can't spray ok, but with all the people that I've seen
complain about base with the Iwata I think there's something to it.
I guess that's why they came out with a special base cap, to try
and make it better, after all the complaints.
I don't see where the base cap made much of a difference.
For the price of that cap, why fight it to make it work?
I'm recommending people save their money
and buy a different gun for less money, like the Astro.
(I've never had a problem with base useing that gun).
Sometimes easier is better. (just my opinion) imp:

 

About the Astro Paint Gun

I bought a new Astro LVLP 1.4 thinking I would save some money.Boy was I wrong.When I shot a fender with that gun all i had were problems.I would use this gun for primer only after using my Iwata.I just used my Iwata 400 with the settings suggested By BEE4ME and my paint job came out like glass with no runs or orange peel.The best gun I ever shot with by far.I'm not a pro but I feel like one after using the Iwata.

 

Your welcome.
As I said,
C-L-O-S-E IN as in 4" off panel WILL make it work with the Purple cap at around 15# plus you get a solid 9" pattern.Adjust the fan in about 3/4 turn and roll.
You back out and it sucks.
I did a LOT of test sprays with the SPI Red and the difference from 4-5"is amazing.Sure,you can jack around with it and spray at 10" but it defeats the whole purpose of the design of the gun which is to apply paint TO the panel instead of on the floor or out the fan.
I've paid "some" bucks for these guns,I own 2, 1.3 & 1.4 and I have resolved myself to learn HOW and WHAT makes them work. When you do your homework and PRACTICE,the results are about as GOOD as you get.
When I spray clear with the LV,1.4 I basically send it out the door.
My buffer is collecting dust and I LIKE IT!!!! :thumbup:

 

I haven't tried the BC cap but for clear the LV just can't be beat IMO.
Mike, have you sprayed any tough metalics with the BC cap? No need to do a drop coat? I still walk the whole car with a drop coat when shooting complete metalics just like the old enamel days, can't complain on the results though-no stripes or mottling anywhere ever. JC, if you want to sell that BC aircap let me know, I'd like to give one a try before buying another gun. Bob

 

Not yet Bob, I just really got back to painting lately and most everything has been solid colors. I got some scrap Chromabase I picked up at my jobber for free as well as some CrossFire Silver's I plan on doing some test panels with it. JimC uses one for most of his base I believe as well as BK. Might give them a shout.
I will tell you that it's a night & day difference.
I finally figured out how to spray a solid color base with the LV but the LVB cap is SO much better at atomizing it's no comparison.Main reason it's not so good for clear.Too much atomizing.
Then, You got this LVX cap which I've not used or even seen yet.
One other thing,I use it on my 1.3 gun which is what you have I believe.
I picked up a 1.4 gun used for about half price with a LV cap and it's my clear gun now.
Hummm.... I do still have some Nason Silver.....
Now THAT would be a good test..... :mwink:

 

For the guys that have had problems with this gun, are you running HVLP fittings or the standard type A or M?

 

Hello People!
I have a question for everybody who sprays clearcoat with lph-lv400 1.4, especially for those, who spray with 20-22 psi.
When I spray any fast clears with Iwata, I almost always have solvent pop. With slower clears( and I am talking not about hardeners - i used at summer slow hardeners always) I don't have this problem with solvent pop. Also, I have a Sata5000 RP 1.3, and even with 20 psi and with fast clears a have no problem at all with solvent pop.
Could it be because my coats to thick with iwata? i really like more how iwata sprays clearcoat at 20 psi - almost no orange peel, but the solvent problem makes me change clearcoat gun to this blowgun(sata).