Ohhhhh lets see the best ??, Sonny Bryant or Joe Velasco, lightweight billet crank probably $3000-$4000 or there abouts. There is absolutely no reason to run a lightweight crank in a tow vehicle application. Just build a good low rpm torque monster.

 

We build some circle track engines with 283 mains and Honda rod journals and after balancing they weigh about 31 pounds and we have Rick at King's crankshaft build our cranks. http://kingscrankshaft.com/

 

who makes the best lightweight crankshafts? im looking to use one to make more hp out of a heavier vehicle i may also use to tow my trailer. is it a good idea to use with such an application? i was thinking of maybe a 40lb crank.

You'll need ultralight rods and pistons too or you'll never get the thing balanced correctly. You getting into few ten-thousand for just the bottom end in a tow rig.

 

but my question is will the ultralite rods/pistons and crankshaft take as much of a beating or more than a fullweight crank? im interested in the alloys their using and how much of a comparative beating they will take. this application isnt for a 'tow vehicle' per say. it just will tow some of the time, i already have a low end torquey truck for that but sometimes i like to drive the van. the van is not a dragster but it does race occassionally. im re-doing the 460hp 383 i had in their before. some shot peen was left in the block right after is was rebuilt and maybe 1000 miles later it completly bent a rod at a 90 deg. angree and snapped the cam in half and **** blew out of the oil pan. i had a scat 45lb in it before. im wondering if i should do a 40lb this time since im redoing it anyway. never the less the van is heavy but it ran like a raped ape. right now it's got a built 700r4 and 3.08 gears.

 

I was always under the impression that you WANT heavy rotating assys. in a tow rig.
Keeps everything turning under a heavy load.
I looked for the heaviest flywheel possible in my towing vehicles.
Once you get that 40+lb flywheel turning-----an extra load on the back is not gonna let it stall.
I think the flywheel in my elky is about 35------that car will not stall in first or second.
release the clutch-----they go

Bryan

 

i understand what you're trying to say but isnt the horsepower of the motor what the "heavy load" would be fighting and not the weight of the crankshaft?

 

Ok, I found a deal for you...Cola Super Ultralite (COSU series) 38-42 lbs. your choice of stroke, rod length etc., only $1999.00 (800) 418-9573. You'll have to locate your own lightweight rods and pistons....as Johnsongrass1 eluded to.

 

but my question is will the ultralite rods/pistons and crankshaft take as much of a beating or more than a fullweight crank? im interested in the alloys their using and how much of a comparative beating they will take. this application isnt for a 'tow vehicle' per say. it just will tow some of the time, i already have a low end torquey truck for that but sometimes i like to drive the van. the van is not a dragster but it does race occassionally. im re-doing the 460hp 383 i had in their before. some shot peen was left in the block right after is was rebuilt and maybe 1000 miles later it completly bent a rod at a 90 deg. angree and snapped the cam in half and **** blew out of the oil pan. i had a scat 45lb in it before. im wondering if i should do a 40lb this time since im redoing it anyway. never the less the van is heavy but it ran like a raped ape. right now it's got a built 700r4 and 3.08 gears.

Yes,

Your getting into something way over your head.

If your dragin or towing, then you need something to keep the rotating mass moving for better line start's. Lightweight stuff is for circle track racing where throttle response is paramount.

BTW, something beside steel shot bent that rod. Breaking the cam is common with rod failures.